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Thread: Weight reduction

  1. #1

    Default Weight reduction

    I was listening to Carroll Shelby talk about the 298 and making things lighter for the cobra. What are some things like the alum. Bumpers/ driveshaft heads headers smog delete. And the hood. What kinda stuff comes to mind when it comes to making boxes lighter?

  2. #2
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Along what you mentioned, maybe the spare tire & holder, bumper jack. Unless you want to bastardize the interior comfort, you can't do much inside, maybe convert to manual windows and mirrors?
    Remove AC, smog stuff, stock exhaust.
    Alu driveshaft, intake, headers, heads. Lighter wheels, modern (lighter) brakes.

    The only (correct IMO) way to make a luxury car faster is to add horsepower, not lightness.
    Unless you're going all out, I don't think it's really worth it.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
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  3. #3
    GMN Regular WagonMan's Avatar
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    A lot of box bodies came with steel or aluminum bumpers. I put aluminum front bumpers on all 3 of my Colony Park wagons. Saves a lot of weight. WagonMan
    1990 Colony Park
    1970 HEMI Superbird

  4. #4

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    Make molds of body parts to reduce weight with fiberglass
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    I seem to recall a gutted box years ago, was a drag car. He took it pretty far and removed a lot of weight
    ..

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    There's really only so much weight you can remove. I bet my 2004 VicKart missing 80% of the body still weighs like 3200lbs

  7. #7
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    what are you trying to do with it? If this is a track car it gets easier, if you want to street drive it, leave the weight alone and add more motor.

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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Find an aluminum hood and swap out the steelie hood.

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    This won't be a popular answer but how i handled weight reduction, is I got a fox body that weighs 2700lb.
    ..

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Or a LSx Nissan 240SX. Neighbor at work had that as a drift car and it was just bonkers to ride in.

    But I would have to agree with Gadget73, big block your box and be done with it.

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I'd go smallblock. The results to effort ratio is better. Ultimately it depends on the goals though. What makes sense for a track car is way different from a street cruiser / daily driver car. Even the type of track we're talking about matters. Drag strip vs road coarse or autocross are pretty different situations. I know basically fuck-all about racing but it doesn't take a genius to figure out that going fast in a straight line vs going fast around a turn are not the same thing.

    so before anything can happen, goals have to be defined. Then a budget needs to be defined because there are things that can be done with heaps of cash that can't be done without them.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13
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    I sure hope that sometime in the future, as these cars get older and more appreciated just for the fact that they are old, that there will be some type of aftermarket support for them. As of now, since there is little to no aftermarket support, there are going to be major limitations to making a box "lightweight". I myself have pulled some weight out of my 85 2-door. Here's a list of what I did:
    - swapped Cast Iron headers for Mustang Shorty headers
    - ditched the heavy stock midpipe for an O/R h-pipe
    - cut the stock tailpipe off and am runing a dumped exhaust, no tailpipes
    - replaced the Cast Iron intake manifold for an aluminum Edelbrock 289 manifold
    - removed smog pump & A/C, and all associated front accessories for these systems
    - removed the full size spare tire (heavy)
    - removed the front sway bar. That thing was like 20-25lbs or so
    - removed the sound deadening from underneath the rear seat
    - removed the lower rear set belts . No one goes back there anyways on mine so it's not an issue for me

    I could still
    - do an aluminum head swap and drop 50lbs. (but then my CFI unit might not like this)
    - remove the blower motor and heater core underneath the dash for anywhere between 20-30lbs
    - do the aluminum front and rear bumpers for maybe 10-15lbs?
    - do the aluminum driveshaft that people talk about for another 5lbs of rotational weight
    - do a real race wheel/tire set-up and drop some more rotational weight, I'd estimate maybe 5lbs a corner, which would be 20lbs total

    The city I live in has a grid-type layout, with little to no winding roads, so a stop-light to stop-light type of build is what I was going for with mine. Still has a full interior though. If anyone has more ideas I'd like to implement them into my build as well.
    1985 2-Door
    CFI, K&N Filter, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake, E7 Heads, BBK Shorty Headers, Summit H-pipe, Hooker Max Flow Mufflers, E-Fan, 3G Alternator, Race Crank Pulley, Bilstein Rear Shocks, KYB Front Shocks, Front Lowering Springs, FTI 2400 Stall Converter, PA Performance Valve Body, Motive 4.30 Gear, Eaton LSD Differential - I own quite possibly the fastest CFI powered box to the 1/8th mile: 9.95@68.89mph

  14. #14
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I personally wouldn't use time and effort to try and make a box lighter, but I am still quite interested in making a box handle better. Nothing too crazy, but I want to be able enjoy twisty roads (which there are alot of here).
    Obviously the biggest hurdle there is the rear sway bar, after that maybe some bigger wheels with less sidewall flex and stiffer suspension.

    Like others said, if you want to go dedicated track car, probably get something else than a box...
    If you really insist on making a box do good on a track, maybe '03+ frame swap and all the whale suspension goodies one can find.
    Losing weight doesn't help too much on a floaty boat.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  15. #15
    Member sluggish91's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I personally wouldn't use time and effort to try and make a box lighter, but I am still quite interested in making a box handle better. Nothing too crazy, but I want to be able enjoy twisty roads (which there are alot of here).
    Obviously the biggest hurdle there is the rear sway bar, after that maybe some bigger wheels with less sidewall flex and stiffer suspension.

    Like others said, if you want to go dedicated track car, probably get something else than a box...
    If you really insist on making a box do good on a track, maybe '03+ frame swap and all the whale suspension goodies one can find.
    Losing weight doesn't help too much on a floaty boat.
    It's almost like we have the same mindset, except I was interested in making a box enjoyable from stoplight to stoplight, something I have a lot of around here.

    That's a good suggestion with the 03 frame swap. Lots of aftermarket support (surprisingly) for the whale body style. Metco & ADTR Performance come to mind. I think there is a member on this forum that did an 85 two door body on a whale chassis. I've seen it somewhere online.
    1985 2-Door
    CFI, K&N Filter, Edelbrock Performer 289 Intake, E7 Heads, BBK Shorty Headers, Summit H-pipe, Hooker Max Flow Mufflers, E-Fan, 3G Alternator, Race Crank Pulley, Bilstein Rear Shocks, KYB Front Shocks, Front Lowering Springs, FTI 2400 Stall Converter, PA Performance Valve Body, Motive 4.30 Gear, Eaton LSD Differential - I own quite possibly the fastest CFI powered box to the 1/8th mile: 9.95@68.89mph

  16. #16

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    I always liked what rally cars have to offer. That Ltd with the ls motor and king shocks seems to do pretty well out in th desert.

  17. #17

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    Improving it overall is fun. I really liked a lincoln ls I drove. I think I like 50/50 weight

  18. #18
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    When I had the 88 MGM, I put 3.55L gears (L = Limited slip), wide ratio gears in the trans, and dual exhaust. It would scare most cars off the line but fall on its face at about 35mph. It was fun to drive, but definitely not fast.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
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  19. #19
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    I wonder what a stripped down box weighs? I just don't see the efficacy of making a dedicated drag car out of a box unless that is the only car available to do that with. It's like Putter Project; if it was 4-wheel drive; I woulda trashed the CV and built that truck up instead. Since it's just 2WD and sits on a 3/4 ton chassis, I've done nothing with it. Just too heavy for me to spend time messing with. With that said, I did what I did to my Mom's CV because that was part of the agreement. The goal was to have a nice boulevard cruiser that would see the drag strip 2 maybe 3 times a year. I'm still not opposed to putting a big block in there; it's just a money thing at this point.

  20. #20
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    The po of my 87 tried making it into a drag car. He even pulled all the fi and ac stuff. First thing I did was convert back to fuel injection and honestly I donít feel a difference in power. And as said the weight of these cars doesnít help either. To me these cars are great cruisers, I donít see them as drag racers nor would I want one as such.


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