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Thread: Superchargers

  1. #1

    Default Superchargers

    The car is a 2004 GM. I'm investigating a blower for "Le Bateau" so I'm looking for wisdom from those who have gone before. Looks like the Eaton is the simplest and least effective while the twin screws are maybe the most effective. I watched a very good video on installing a Roush which really scared me. Too complicated for my skill set and tool kit so I will be hiring a shop to do the install. Soliciting advice from the group.

  2. #2
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    What are your goals?
    ..

  3. #3

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    Massacre, thanks for the response. 400 to 500 hp. Keep the cost down. Don't lose the day ride features like AC. I would also like to keep an 87 Oct. tune and a reasonable mpg. figure like 20 on the highway.
    I mostly need more power to climb hills. I'm in Colorado and house wives .are passing me in their SUV's.

  4. #4
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Before dropping huge coin on a supercharger setup, you might want to look at some very simple improvements that might help with getting up and over hills. While arguably I haven't traversed the Rockies in either my cars, I've climbed some stretches in the Appalachians traveling between GA and PA.

    If you haven't already had this fitted: Factory style dual exhaust greatly improves the car's ability to breath. Gears also can help out a good bit, with a good medium being a 3.27 or 3.55 for highway running. I've been running duals and 3.55s in my '97 for a while and it doesn't hunt in and out of OD going up hills on the interstate at 74-78 MPH. It maintains speed well without struggle. Fuel economy is about 21-24 highway. I'm sure not all 210 horses are still kicking at the current mileage, but I can run the speedometer up with ease.

    You can always shoot for more horsepower, but you will throw money at the 4.6 to make it up to that power rating. Not trying to dissuade, but if all you're looking for is good highway cruising ability without losing pace, you can do that without forced induction.

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  5. #5

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    Kodachrome Wolf, Thanks for the good input. I have put the dual exhaust on but I still run the stock 2.73. I'll look into cost on the rear end gears and maybe a good tune. Thanks for the feedback. Appreciate it.

  6. #6
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    I agree with kodachrome. Blower setup is going to cost a lot of money, especially if you pay a shop to install it. And on 87 octane, making 400-500hp is going to be on the edge, even with a good tune. At that HP, your rods and pistons are likely on borrowed time as well.

    Gears is what will help the most imho. Those highway gears are killing you on hills. I had an 8.8 rebuilt last year locally for $500. I supplied all parts. Heck of a lot cheaper than a blower setup lol
    ..

  7. #7

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    Massacre, Good input. Thanks. What's an 8.8?

  8. #8
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay Baugher View Post
    Massacre, Good input. Thanks. What's an 8.8?
    Your rear axle.
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  9. #9
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    Ford 8.8 rear differencial and the 2004 should have 28 spline axles IIRC. I think the change to 31 spline was mid 2005.

    The 8.8 is the size you will need to know when looking for rear gears as that's the size of the ring gear.

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  10. #10
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    Gears are the biggest obstacle for you; whether you decide to supercharge or not, its the first place to start. They will make more practical use of the cars current power through torque multiplication. As your ratio becomes numerically higher, your torque multiplication increases as does your engine rpm at a given cruising speed. 3.55 is really a great ratio to run if you want a good balance, and it was a factory available option. My previous car had 3.55s and would go up and down hills effortlessly. My current car has 2.73s, and unless I'm going 85+ mph, it floats out of OD.

    A gear swap will be significantly cheaper, see estimates below. Should you decide you still want to supercharge it, the 3.55s are still a good gear to have. If you go lower than the 3.55 (numerically higher), it will not build boost as nicely as there is less engine load.

    Trac lok: 300 (an aftermarket unit will be more expensive; Ford trac loks are harder to find these days in 28 spline)
    FRPP Gears: 200
    Gear Install Kit: 115
    Axle bearings and seals (opt): 75
    Fluid/ Additive: 50
    Labor: 250+
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  11. #11
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    I'm currently in process on supercharging one of my vehicles and can do 98% of the work myself. Unless you have deep pockets, skip any forced induction. You're not going to run any forced induction engine on 87 octane very long unless you want to pick up pieces of engine along the highway once you get into boost especially at those HP levels. So many supporting mods are needed to run at that level reliably. Including the blower purchase itself I have over $3000 invested, still missing a few parts needed and its still all just sitting in a box until I have everything to make it right. Likely will cost me about $5,500 when it's all said and done and that does not include the built trans (another $4,200).

    Remember, you can only have two- Fast, Cheap, Reliable

    I'd do gears (3.27's or 3.55's) and add a trac-loc to it while in there as P72 stated, j-mod the trans, add a trans cooler and get a tune. That should get you going well along with the dual exhaust you added.
    These are highly engineered precision vehicles, the first step in diagnosing the problem is to strike the suspected offending part sharply and repeatedly with a blunt object, then re-test.

  12. #12
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    Like everyone else said, gears. I'd go right to the 3.55's. I'd also run dual exhaust.
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