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Thread: Diff Carrier

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    Default Diff Carrier

    Since everyone in my area wants to charge an arm and a leg for gear installs I thought Iíd ask you guys. Does anyone have a carrier with gears installed and the pinion that theyíre willing to sell? 3.27 or 3.55s preferred. I want something that is close to plug and play. And it has to be for a 28 spline axle.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    Since everyone in my area wants to charge an arm and a leg for gear installs I thought I’d ask you guys. Does anyone have a carrier with gears installed and the pinion that they’re willing to sell? 3.27 or 3.55s preferred. I want something that is close to plug and play. And it has to be for a 28 spline axle.


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    Someone will correct me if I'm wrong (I hope ), but I'm fairly sure anything up to 2002 model will work, and 3.27 rears in cop bubbles are abundant, should be able to score one in just about any junkyard, as long as you don't need a limited slip unit. Those aren't rare, either, but harder to find than an open one. You would have to update to rear discs, most folks like that improvement anyhow. 2003 - up has the control arms farther outboard and wider track, I believe. Major modifications would be necessary.

    How handy are you with tools and mechanical stuff? Swapping your own gear isn't that rough if you've got something to hold the companion flange and a magnetic dial gauge. A press and bearing puller (or a friend with one!) are necessary as well. Machine shops usually don't charge too much just to remove/install a bearing, either. Pinion depth is really the only big pain-in-the-ass if you have to keep trying different shims. Professional shops (should) have a special tool for setting the pinion depth, but more times than not, the shim that came installed on your original pinion is the appropriate one.

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    I thought about this after posting and pming another member and I think Iíll forgo this. My train of thought was since the gears were already shimmed I could swap the whole carrier over but Iím sure there are machining variances that would prevent that from being as easy as Iím thinking. The issue is no one wants to touch it. My local Ford dealer claims itís too old yet Iíve seen them work on a 69 mustang. And because Naples itself is so expensive, the car culture is too. I called around and no one wants to touch it because itís not a Bentley or a resto. And the shops willing to touch it want a minimum of 800 just in labor. There is a guy who does this kind of work on the side that charges around 500 but the thing is who knows if he stands behind his work. He was recommended by a couple shops in fort myers though.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    I thought about this after posting and pming another member and I think I’ll forgo this. My train of thought was since the gears were already shimmed I could swap the whole carrier over but I’m sure there are machining variances that would prevent that from being as easy as I’m thinking. The issue is no one wants to touch it. My local Ford dealer claims it’s too old yet I’ve seen them work on a 69 mustang. And because Naples itself is so expensive, the car culture is too. I called around and no one wants to touch it because it’s not a Bentley or a resto. And the shops willing to touch it want a minimum of 800 just in labor. There is a guy who does this kind of work on the side that charges around 500 but the thing is who knows if he stands behind his work. He was recommended by a couple shops in fort myers though.


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    For some reason when I first read your post, I assumed you meant the carrier IN it's original housing. That would save you some bucks and some technical effort. Yeah, there'd be no advantage just to having a ring gear bolted to the carrier (I often call it by the slang "chunk", which is why I probably confused myself). Anyway, as stated, the shims that reside under your existing pinion bearing is probably the right one for your existing housing, but there's no guarantee of that of course. Then there's the crush sleeve (you adjust it to get the preload with LOTS of leverage) and the carrier (side) shims, those always have to be fiddled with.

    If you're not comfortable trying it yourself, your best bet is swap the whole housing with one that has the ratio you want, the second best bet is find a shop with all the proper gauges and tools to specifically set up an 8.8" Furd rear. That takes all the "guesswork" out.

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    If you use OEM gears and carriers usually it won't be totally out to lunch if you start with the same shims as what came out of the housing, but any time you change stuff it has to be confirmed.

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    I believe the rear in 98-02 cars are different as well, however 79-97 will definitely work. You're honestly better off getting an entire rear and swapping it in, if you find one without Trac Lok you can just swap that in, and most likely no other modification will be necessary (I'd still check the gear pattern).

    If you really just want to swap gears, like you said there are more variables, and you may have to make adjustments to get it to mesh correctly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    I believe the rear in 98-02 cars are different as well, however 79-97 will definitely work. You're honestly better off getting an entire rear and swapping it in, if you find one without Trac Lok you can just swap that in, and most likely no other modification will be necessary (I'd still check the gear pattern).

    If you really just want to swap gears, like you said there are more variables, and you may have to make adjustments to get it to mesh correctly.
    We should probably go with what Brown_Muscle sez, particularly about '98-'02 cars being potentially different. You can still find some "aero" cop cars in the yards, though.

    I concur on the change to Trac-Lok. Just changing the carrier is real easy. You won't be changing the pinion depth or preload at all, it's just a matter of getting the proper backlash (dial gauges/magnet mounts aren't real expensive) and side bearing preload. On a rear end with adjusters (not an 8.8" Furd), it's super-easy, but it's still not a big deal to "trial and error" with the selective side shims. Furd had to make it a little harder, or it wouldn't feel like your banging your knuckles on a Furd!!!

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    What I meant about carrier was the carrier with gears, everything in the pumpkin.

    Yeah I could get an entire rear but there are no yards closeby anymore and no one has anything from even the 90s anymore. Iím thinking Iím just going to say screw it and see how much this guy wants. Iím tired of the 4.10s in this car. It tops out at like 80 and the speedometer is way off even with a 21 tooth speedo gear.

    Iíve read a lot online about installing gears and it doesnít seem bad given I have the right tools but I donít have a lift.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    What I meant about carrier was the carrier with gears, everything in the pumpkin.

    "Yeah I could get an entire rear but there are no yards closeby anymore and no one has anything from even the 90s anymore. I’m thinking I’m just going to say screw it and see how much this guy wants. I’m tired of the 4.10s in this car. It tops out at like 80 and the speedometer is way off even with a 21 tooth speedo gear.

    I’ve read a lot online about installing gears and it doesn’t seem bad given I have the right tools but I don’t have a lift.


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    Wow, you got the 4.10's now? I could have just swapped you the 2.21:1 from my '79 before I changed it out!

    Are you sure you're not confusing the 8.8" with a 9" Furd rear (or maybe yours was previously equipped with one?)

    There's a lot of slang that people, myself included, use interchangeably sometimes i.e. "pumpkin", "chunk", etc., but just to be clear, with Furd 9 inchers, Chrysler 8.75", and the like, the whole differential assembly, gears, carriers, bearings, pinion etc. etc comes out the front of the housing assembled as one unit (very convenient!!!). The 8.8" Furd, like the Generic Motors 10 and 12-bolt and many others, the guts all come out the back of the axle housing in bits and pieces, making for big inconvenience!

    You don't need a lift, by the way, but it is a huge help. I have the exact same issue as you with the speedo gear in my C4 with the 4.10 gears. On a Furd, you have to take off the trans tailshaft housing and also change the gear on the tailshaft itself to get the appropriate speedo reading for the 4.10's.
    Last edited by Quincy; 09-14-2021 at 07:45 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quincy View Post
    Wow, you got the 4.10's now? I could have just swapped you the 2.21:1 from my '79 before I changed it out!

    Are you sure you're not confusing the 8.8" with a 9" Furd rear (or maybe yours was previously equipped with one?)

    There's a lot of slang that people, myself included, use interchangeably sometimes i.e. "pumpkin", "chunk", etc., but just to be clear, with Furd 9 inchers, Chrysler 8.75", and the like, the whole differential assembly, gears, carriers, bearings, pinion etc. etc comes out the front of the housing assembled as one unit (very convenient!!!). The 8.8" Furd, like the Generic Motors 10 and 12-bolt and many others, the guts all come out the back of the axle housing in bits and pieces, making for big inconvenience!

    You don't need a lift, by the way, but it is a huge help. I have the exact same issue as you with the speedo gear in my C4 with the 4.10 gears. On a Furd, you have to take off the trans tailshaft housing and also change the gear on the tailshaft itself to get the appropriate speedo reading for the 4.10's.
    Yeah and I hate them. The previous owner installed them trying to make a racecar out of it. 4.10s are way too steep, especially with the stupid LoPo powerband.

    Yes it has the original 8.8 inch rear end. These cars never had a 9 inch rear as far as I know. But I believe the carrier comes out in one piece with the axles slid out of the way. Iíve never personally pulled one apart so Iím no expert. And I get the thing about the lift but I donít have anywhere to put jackstands safely.


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    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    These cars never had a 9 inch rear as far as I know.

    Correct. I meant the outside chance that someone else had installed one. People put them in everything, you can get any width your heart desires, just have to weld on the proper mounting brackets, perches, whatever.

    The 8.8" (and many similar rear ends) comes apart as follows.

    1. Remove cover
    2. Remove retaining bolt and spider gear pin from carrier
    3. Remove axle C-clips and slide axles out
    4. Remove carrier bearing caps
    5. Remove carrier/ring gear/carrier bearing assy and bearing races (2) and assorted shims
    6. Remove pinion nut from front of pinion
    7. Pull companion flange from front of pinion
    8. Remove pinion/rear pinion bearing/shim/crush washer assy from rear of housing
    9. Remove front pinion bearing (it will probably come out along with the pinion, but it is not pressed on)

    So, you see there are a pile of separate pieces that unload from the housing upon disassembly, not including removal of carrier and rear pinion bearings as necessary in a hydraulic press, nor the pinion races pressed onto the housing.

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  12. #12
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    yeah they aren't that difficult to pull apart. Getting the flange nut off the pinion is probably the worst just because that nut is really on there. Need to fabricobble you something as a holder. The one I made was from a piece of angle iron that was laying around. I drilled 2 holes at the right spots and ground a bit of clearance out of in the middle. The only thing at all precise about it is getting the holes in the right spot, but that isn't real hard. Had to make one to do the pinion seal on the Continental.

    Don't really need a lift, it certainly makes the job suck less but its definitely possible to gut the carrier with it on jack stands.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #13
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    Both the pinion and ring gears must be the same ratio. The ring gear mounts to the carrier, somewhat easy peasy. The pinion is the PITA gear and it mounts through the pumpkin housing with the nut on the front outside of the housing. Basically it spins with the driveshaft. The pinon gear then turns the ring gear & carrier assembly which drives the axles.

    The job if done right requires a few special tools like a dial gauge with magnetic mount and various torque wrenches to ensure everything mates well. The largest most expensive tool is a shop press to press the pinion bearing on and off if the original shim is not right. You might need to have a machine shop do that.

    You would also need new bearings, (wheel, carrier and pinion), a couple of crush nuts some black rtv, axle seals and gear oil. And yes you really want the rear off the ground to gain the needed access. The parts are available in sets and should include an assortment of aftermarket shims.

    get a service manual it gives step by step detail instructions.
    Last edited by jaywish; 09-14-2021 at 11:34 PM.
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  14. #14

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    Got multiple complete rearends out of new mexico. Both were spose to be 3.55 traclok with 16 inch and not 15 inch drums. Both were wrong. It's tough to do business with anyone anymore.

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