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Thread: Coolant Type

  1. #1

    Default Coolant Type

    Iím getting ready to do a coolant flush on my 85 CV. Iíve been running green coolant in it but Iíd like to get away from it. What are your thoughts/opinions on the gold Zerex G-05 coolant? Iíd like to go that route since it is longer life than the conventional green. My research has ended with conflicting results. Some people say absolutely do not switch and others say it will be fine. The cooling system is stock except for my radiator which is an aftermarket all aluminum unit.


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  2. #2
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    prob comes down to compatibility. you wont be able to get all of the old stuff out unless you do multiple fill and flushes with water. Then you won't be able to get all of the water out. Unless you use distilled thats not ideal either. If you can get the block drains out that will give you a far more complete drain, but chances are fair those have not ever been pulled and its your call if you want to risk trying to get them out. I've never been brave enough to try it. If you do pull them I'd replace with new ones.


    If the system is nasty that really needs to be sorted out first before any new coolant goes in.

    for my 2 cents I'd probably just put back what has been in there for decades. No questions about compatibility or availability at that point. As for "life", I've drained out some very elderly green coolant that was still in serviceable shape. Also drained out plenty that looked like someone did an upper decker in the radiator. The big trick seems to be to not ever use tap water to fill or mix. Depending on the price I either use pre-mix or get distilled water. Used to be cheapest getting premix from Harbor Freight using the 20% off coupon but they don't seem to have those anymore. When I did the coolant on my truck it worked out cheapest to get full strength from RockAuto and distilled water from CVS. Thats DexCool, which I am not a fan of but back to that compatibility thing.

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  3. #3
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    The 5 year green is not bad. First drain as much old coolant as possible for proper recycling. Then install one of those dirt cheap prestone flush "t"s to give the car a nice enima. with the engine running and heat on. Don't use too much pressure and all should be fine. Then drain as much regular water as you possibly can, pull low hoses and even block drain if possible. At that point there will still be regular water in system. Fill the drained system with distilled water, (very cheap) then run to temp and again drain out as much water as you can. Then add the correct amount of full strength to bring mix to between 40-50% of system capacity. example system takes 12 quarts (12*.45=5.4 quarts of full strength) (.4*32=13oz) so 5 quarts 13 oz. to reach 45%) Then top up with distilled water till you get all the air out like normal.

    More $$ and a short term PITA to install is the Evans waterless coolant. But it is basically permanent and does not build significant pressure at operating temps which is very nice. I did this to the Marauder as I had no plans to sell that.

    BTY those special fluid fill kits are nice. Wish I had bought one much earlier. I don't have the pressure one just the Lisle? yellow screw on funnel type
    Last edited by jaywish; 09-18-2021 at 07:01 PM.
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  4. #4
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I'm gonna vote for the stock type. Good green in this case. Run it ten years or 50K and change it, I've had zero problems that way.
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    I flushed all the green out of my '97 and replaced it with the G-05 a few years back. It's been fine since the switch, haven't had any issues since. Kinda hard to see it very well in the reservoir when it's clean since the gold color tint is very faint IMO, but that's really a non-issue.

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    As Tiggie said, certain companies changed the green formulation recently. It's now rated for 10 years, 100K miles, can't really go wrong with that! You could also go HAM and put in waterless coolant that never needs changing...
    -Phil



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  7. #7

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    Thanks for the advice guys! Iím going to stick with green and get the formulation that has a longer life. I definitely donít want to try to wrestle out the block drains to flush every last ounce of green out. With my luck that would end badly.

    @gadget73Öthat upper deckered cooling system comment had me laughing quite hard! Iíve seen more than a few over the years where that was the best way to describe them!

    @jaywishÖIím going to go with your flush procedure. I want to get every last bit of crud out and the garden hose enema seems like it will do just that.

    Iíve also picked up a heater core coolant restrictor to install when I do all of this. It goes in the core supply line just after it exits the top of the intake.


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    I put a coolant filter in-line to the heater core on my wife's car after hers dumped itself. The coolant system had dexcool in it instead of the green it was supposed to have thanks to a Firestone the PO took it to. The system was really bad. The filter was changed after clogging up after two weeks, then two months, then changing at oil changes seems to be doing fine. Since that was such a fiasco, I installed the same filter setup on my 93 to hopefully avoid replacing the heater core in that one. Thankfully, it's always had green in it. I generally just use the Prestone 50/50 "mixes with all" light green stuff just to keep things simple. If I'm doing a complete flush, I'll get distilled water and concentrate and mix it myself since I'll pour all of one water jug and concentrate in just to base fill the system and then top up with the mixed.

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  9. #9
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Dexcool mixed with anything else is a disaster. I'm not a fan of the stuff, but my truck came with it and it was not nasty so I drained and re-filled with fresh of the exact same AC Smellco stuff. I figure that shouldn't cause me any grief.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #10
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Yeah... I was seriously unimpressed with that Firestone. Jerks.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaywish View Post
    The 5 year green is not bad. First drain as much old coolant as possible for proper recycling. Then install one of those dirt cheap prestone flush "t"s to give the car a nice enima. with the engine running and heat on. Don't use too much pressure and all should be fine. Then drain as much regular water as you possibly can, pull low hoses and even block drain if possible. At that point there will still be regular water in system. Fill the drained system with distilled water, (very cheap) then run to temp and again drain out as much water as you can. Then add the correct amount of full strength to bring mix to between 40-50% of system capacity. example system takes 12 quarts (12*.45=5.4 quarts of full strength) (.4*32=13oz) so 5 quarts 13 oz. to reach 45%) Then top up with distilled water till you get all the air out like normal.

    More $$ and a short term PITA to install is the Evans waterless coolant. But it is basically permanent and does not build significant pressure at operating temps which is very nice. I did this to the Marauder as I had no plans to sell that.

    BTY those special fluid fill kits are nice. Wish I had bought one much earlier. I don't have the pressure one just the Lisle? yellow screw on funnel type
    We did all this with sons car. I switched to GO5 on my 88 cougar and sons car. Been fine for years on my Cougar. Ive heard the green high life stuff is actually green Dexcool.
    1987 CV LX 5.0

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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    I put a coolant filter in-line to the heater core on my wife's car after hers dumped itself. The coolant system had dexcool in it instead of the green it was supposed to have thanks to a Firestone the PO took it to. The system was really bad. The filter was changed after clogging up after two weeks, then two months, then changing at oil changes seems to be doing fine. Since that was such a fiasco, I installed the same filter setup on my 93 to hopefully avoid replacing the heater core in that one. Thankfully, it's always had green in it. I generally just use the Prestone 50/50 "mixes with all" light green stuff just to keep things simple. If I'm doing a complete flush, I'll get distilled water and concentrate and mix it myself since I'll pour all of one water jug and concentrate in just to base fill the system and then top up with the mixed.
    We put a filter inlne to heater core as well, was a new core. Filter is clear so you can see what is going on. Its quite handy.
    1987 CV LX 5.0

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    We put a filter inlne to heater core as well, was a new core. Filter is clear so you can see what is going on. Its quite handy.
    My filter is one of those diesel coolant filters (looks like a spin-on oil filter), but chem free version filter.
    Mount: WIX 24019
    Filter: WIX 24069

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  14. #14
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    Interesting i didn't know they were pushing the green to ten years. 50K. Must be, hopefully, better additives. Cause at 5 yrs in a clean system the green that comes out looks right decent.

    this is the current Lisle, made in USA product they also have a slightly cheaper set which does cover ford and others. One of those tools I wish I had bought sooner.

    https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...-funnel-18-pc/
    Last edited by jaywish; 09-20-2021 at 12:06 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaywish View Post
    Interesting i didn't know they were pushing the green to ten years. 50K. Must be, hopefully, better additives. Cause at 5 yrs in a clean system the green that comes out looks right decent.

    this is the current Lisle, made in USA product they also have a slightly cheaper set which does cover ford and others. One of those tools I wish I had bought sooner.

    https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-...-funnel-18-pc/
    60$ for funnels...... Woof!
    1987 CV LX 5.0

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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    My filter is one of those diesel coolant filters (looks like a spin-on oil filter), but chem free version filter.
    Mount: WIX 24019
    Filter: WIX 24069
    sounds cool. Got any pics of the setup?
    1987 CV LX 5.0

  17. #17
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    funnels systems are cheaper on the usual sites. They screw into the coolant system so you fill the funnel and it feeds as bubbles exit the system. When you are done put in the funnel plug remove funnel and drain leftover back into the bottle.
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  18. #18
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to go with Evan's coolant. ( https://www.evanscoolant.com/ )

    I'm tired of gasket and heater core failures due to the nature of a pressurized system.
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  19. #19
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mcb82gt View Post
    sounds cool. Got any pics of the setup?
    Buried somewhere in my RR thread... lemme check...
    Here it is: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post806998

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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  20. #20
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If you're looking to spend a decent chunk of money on a thing to refill your coolant system, what you want is an airlift. It vacuums the system down which is useful for leak checking. If it holds vacuum, there are no leaks. Shut the vacuum off, switch hoses, and it just sucks coolant out of a bucket. No air bubbles, no burping, no bullshit. Absolutely wonderful tool to use. Scott has one and one of these days I'll buy one for myself.

    https://www.cpsproducts.com/automoti...-system-tools/

    Only trick is you need a source of compressed air and a reasonable volume of it. Wee little compressor ain't gonna do it.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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