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    #16
    Might not hear it over the exhaust if its non-stock in the early stages. BTDT.

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      #17
      Also, if the u-joints are seizing up, they won't bang either.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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        #18
        Since I have you guys here I have another question but it’s about brakes. My 85 ltd had awesome brakes, this car does not. Theres resistance but I have to press them I’d say about 3/4 the way to the floor to stop. And they have locked up on me when braking moderately but I didn’t feel like it should have been at that point if that makes sense. It’s like a light switch, it’ll brake normally most of the time though. And the pedal is slow to return to the up position. I can take my foot off it when it’s at the bottom of its travel and it’ll take a few seconds to return to the top.


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          #19
          ever inspect the rear brakes? Most of them haven't been touched in decades. If they aren't working right the braking gets far worse than it should be.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #20
            No I haven’t, though I’m sure they’re old like everything on this car.


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              #21
              yes all the brakes must work correctly but I also really suggest Centric Extended Peformance pads. They tend not to bind up as easily and don't really fade much.
              03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
              02 SL500 Silver Arrow
              08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
              12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                #22
                and if you haven't, see what sort of shape the front slider pins are in. If those are crusty the calipers won't move correctly and it will only stop on one pad.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                  #23
                  Yup. The brakes usually need attention to detail to make them all correct. Clean all the contact point rust, new adjusters and proper lubrication. Though I usually found that self adjusters are problematic. Even on the newer cars with drums.

                  The big brake upgrade is one of the best overall modifications for these cars. Along with good tires, sway bars and better headlights. It is often a lot of money to do all that but it changes the whole vehicle without hurting the luxury feel. If you are lucky you might be able to find a JY vehicle with a new suspension/brakes and swap the whole thing. That would save quite a bit of money.

                  If we are talking brakes probably the most important thing is new brake lines.
                  Last edited by jaywish; 10-17-2021, 12:43 PM.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                    #24
                    Didn’t have time to work on this but I’ll try here soon.

                    Good to know about those pads. I think I got stock pads for when that time comes. I’m not opposed to the big brake upgrade but I want to keep my turbines. I have a new set of hoses too just haven’t installed them yet. I have a big parts stash I’m sitting on.


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                      #25
                      Originally posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
                      I’m not opposed to the big brake upgrade but I want to keep my turbines.
                      "Big brakes" is 98-02 and does mostly require 16" wheels (some 15s might fit, but I think the answer was that the turbines won't).
                      But you can also rebuild it to be like a 95-97, which offers some of the benefits of the newer system. Better sliders, for one. Sealed hub-rotor (no adjustable bearings).
                      It also makes the car ready to accept the 98-02 brake upgrade with less effort because the ball joints and knuckle can be kept the same.
                      95-97 will fit under 15" wheels.

                      Current driver: Ranger
                      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                      | 88 TC | 91 GM
                      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                      | Junkyards

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                        #26
                        Hmm I’ll have to look into that, the thought crossed my mind but I never really looked into it. What about swapping to an aero booster?


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                          #27
                          Does anyone have the link to the big brake swap from 2v modular’s site? I can’t find it. Or does someone have a parts list?


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                            #28
                            Post #13

                            http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ase-Read-First!


                            the later 2 diaphram booster will definitely give you more braking force with less pedal effort. However that won't fix the undersized rotors, or lack of the latest and greatest pad formulations. I think i'm one of the few people who have done the "medium" brake upgrade. They're nice, still undersized, however I intend to go big brake when i get new wheel and tires, i also changed to the later booster
                            Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-19-2021, 08:50 AM.
                            -Phil

                            sigpic

                            +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                            +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                              #29
                              Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                              I think i'm one of the few people who have done the "medium" brake upgrade. They're nice, still undersized, however I intend to go big brake when i get new wheel and tires, i also changed to the later booster
                              My wagon has 11" drums and 95-97 front brakes. I replaced the master with a roughly 90-ish design one, to delete the valve on the frame rail. It received a stock reman booster, as when I measured for it, it looked like the stock CFI/carb air cleaner and intake tube would not work with the master cylinder being so much further forward.

                              The car stops very well. Very very well. Zero wish for more braking on that one. A bajillion times better than stock box stuff even when it's all brand new. Stock box stuff is very "on/off", there is a threshold where the fronts just lock.
                              Last edited by kishy; 10-19-2021, 11:10 AM.

                              Current driver: Ranger
                              Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                              | 88 TC | 91 GM
                              Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                              Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                              | Junkyards

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                                #30
                                Kishy, you gotta drive my '88. Everyone complains about box brakes but I don't mind mine one bit, I think it stops fairly well. Not saying I wouldn't notice an improvement if I upgraded, but I've never had an issue with front or rear lock and I've never had to panic swerve out of the way. Can't say the same for the people behind me though.
                                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
                                1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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