PotM GrandMarq.NET - Panther Headquarters Forum Index PotM
GMN Chat Room GMN's STORE!! GMN's Gallery Please!!
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 21 to 34 of 34

Thread: Driveshaft or U Joints?

  1. #21
    I post a lot...
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yonkers NY
    Posts
    4,364

    Default

    yes all the brakes must work correctly but I also really suggest Centric Extended Peformance pads. They tend not to bind up as easily and don't really fade much.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  2. #22
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    40,735

    Default

    and if you haven't, see what sort of shape the front slider pins are in. If those are crusty the calipers won't move correctly and it will only stop on one pad.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  3. #23
    I post a lot...
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Yonkers NY
    Posts
    4,364

    Default

    Yup. The brakes usually need attention to detail to make them all correct. Clean all the contact point rust, new adjusters and proper lubrication. Though I usually found that self adjusters are problematic. Even on the newer cars with drums.

    The big brake upgrade is one of the best overall modifications for these cars. Along with good tires, sway bars and better headlights. It is often a lot of money to do all that but it changes the whole vehicle without hurting the luxury feel. If you are lucky you might be able to find a JY vehicle with a new suspension/brakes and swap the whole thing. That would save quite a bit of money.

    If we are talking brakes probably the most important thing is new brake lines.
    Last edited by jaywish; 10-17-2021 at 12:43 PM.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  4. #24
    GMN Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    792

    Default

    Didnít have time to work on this but Iíll try here soon.

    Good to know about those pads. I think I got stock pads for when that time comes. Iím not opposed to the big brake upgrade but I want to keep my turbines. I have a new set of hoses too just havenít installed them yet. I have a big parts stash Iím sitting on.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. #25
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,068

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 87GrandMarq View Post
    I’m not opposed to the big brake upgrade but I want to keep my turbines.
    "Big brakes" is 98-02 and does mostly require 16" wheels (some 15s might fit, but I think the answer was that the turbines won't).
    But you can also rebuild it to be like a 95-97, which offers some of the benefits of the newer system. Better sliders, for one. Sealed hub-rotor (no adjustable bearings).
    It also makes the car ready to accept the 98-02 brake upgrade with less effort because the ball joints and knuckle can be kept the same.
    95-97 will fit under 15" wheels.

    Current driver: 85 CS
    Currently owned, parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  6. #26
    GMN Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    792

    Default

    Hmm Iíll have to look into that, the thought crossed my mind but I never really looked into it. What about swapping to an aero booster?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #27
    GMN Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    792

    Default

    Does anyone have the link to the big brake swap from 2v modularís site? I canít find it. Or does someone have a parts list?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. #28
    P31 Pursuit Car Brown_Muscle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    New Jersey
    Posts
    3,199

    Default

    Post #13

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ase-Read-First!


    the later 2 diaphram booster will definitely give you more braking force with less pedal effort. However that won't fix the undersized rotors, or lack of the latest and greatest pad formulations. I think i'm one of the few people who have done the "medium" brake upgrade. They're nice, still undersized, however I intend to go big brake when i get new wheel and tires, i also changed to the later booster
    Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-19-2021 at 08:50 AM.
    -Phil



    +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Edelbrock 1906 Carb+ RPM Intake, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

    +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

  9. #29
    all the CFI are belong to me
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Windsor, ON, Canada
    Posts
    2,068

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
    I think i'm one of the few people who have done the "medium" brake upgrade. They're nice, still undersized, however I intend to go big brake when i get new wheel and tires, i also changed to the later booster
    My wagon has 11" drums and 95-97 front brakes. I replaced the master with a roughly 90-ish design one, to delete the valve on the frame rail. It received a stock reman booster, as when I measured for it, it looked like the stock CFI/carb air cleaner and intake tube would not work with the master cylinder being so much further forward.

    The car stops very well. Very very well. Zero wish for more braking on that one. A bajillion times better than stock box stuff even when it's all brand new. Stock box stuff is very "on/off", there is a threshold where the fronts just lock.
    Last edited by kishy; 10-19-2021 at 11:10 AM.

    Current driver: 85 CS
    Currently owned, parked: 83 GM 2dr POTM 10/2019 | 84 TC POTM 1/2017 & 4/2019 | 85 Ranger +trlr | 86 GM | 88 TC | 91 GM POTM 12/2017
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC
    Junkyards

  10. #30
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,570

    Default

    Kishy, you gotta drive my '88. Everyone complains about box brakes but I don't mind mine one bit, I think it stops fairly well. Not saying I wouldn't notice an improvement if I upgraded, but I've never had an issue with front or rear lock and I've never had to panic swerve out of the way. Can't say the same for the people behind me though.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  11. #31
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
    Location
    Finland
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    I don't think the brakes on my box are bad in any way, they just don't have the crisp feel of a newer cars brakes. Pedal is kinda mushy, but it's still pretty linear, except for the first inch or two, which does nothing.
    Mine has new Raybestos semi-metallic pads and new rotors in the front, rears are the original drums put on the assembly line, hopefully the shoes would be a bit newer.

    I've locked up the brakes a couple times, twice on wet pavement, once on dry. A panic stop is relatively terrifying, brakes locked up or not. There's so much weight transfer due to soft suspension. I'm mostly afraid of the passengers safety and cracking the header panel.
    All I could really ask for is a less mushy brake pedal, better feel. Also doing the wheel bearings was a fucking mess.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    2008 BMW 530d Touring, "Femma"

  12. #32
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Warren, MI
    Posts
    6,570

    Default

    When I put discs on the rear of the Firebird, that gave the car "crisp" brakes. The mush you feel in your pedal is most likely the fluid take up happening at the rear brakes- the amount needed to push the shoes into the drums. You could try adjusting them. They typically need it once a year, the drive fast in reverse and then brake hard doesn't really work for me.

    A potential tid-bit of advice is to never just jab the brake pedal, even if you have to brake hard. Always ease into it.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  13. #33
    GMN Regular
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    792

    Default

    Kishy nailed it with with explanation of how the brakes are. Itís funny though because I used to have an 85 ltd and that thing had great brakes, one of the best Iíve had in any of my cars. The pedal felt great and stopping power was great though I did lock it up a few times.

    Iíll look in that link thanks. Not that it matters but I was looking for one from a different site, maybe itís not around anymore. Cvn guys would know.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  14. #34
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    40,735

    Default

    my usual complaint with box brakes is they're too touchy. I think it may be the booster though. My Continental has the same front brakes and the same master cylinder, but its hydroboost. It has none of that touchy prone to lockup nonsense and its pretty much the same weight as a Vic. It is rear disc but I don't really think thats got a ton to do with it. Honestly even with the big brakes on the Towncar, when I still had the stock master cylinder and booster the pedal feel and control was not as good as it is with the late 90s booster and master.

    much as I'm a fan of better brakes for everyone, I'm also a cheap bastard so I always suggest starting by evaluating what you have now. A big part of why I upgraded the front brakes is because I needed to do a front suspension overhaul anyway. The rears got done because the axle was coming apart for new bearings and the rear drum parts were fucked. Pricing to replace the 11" tow package rear drums was higher than converting it to disc using good junkyard parts, so thats what happened. I did have to get different wheels, but what I had were in bad shape and the tires were shot so that also wasn't really a big deal.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
GMN Approved Links!


www.rockauto.com www.adtr.net