Hey guys bad news transmission issues

[sly]

It will continue to function until the OD band is completely burned up or breaks. Sounds like that is slipping very much so. It's up to you. You know it's slipping. Continuing to use OD will only make things worse. Getting it rebuilt before things break would be best. Driving in D instead of OD will delay the inevitable, but chew more into the fuel bill. But yeah... It's going to eventually stop working at all in OD or break something.

[kishy]

Responding indirectly to a couple earlier comments in here:

"shifting into 4th in regular D" is impossible; OD is 4th gear.

13 US Miles per US Gallons is what I see in 95% city driving with a lead foot and not using OD (average traffic speeds on surface streets cause way too much shifting for my liking).
17 US Miles per US Gallons is about the best I've seen in a box in 95% city driving with conservative pedal use, also not using OD.
19-22 US Miles per US Gallons in 100% highway conditions at 70-90MPH using OD, which I consider reasonable given what the vehicle is.

"engine will rev but eventually shift" is a condition that I've heard referred to as shift flare, where (fundamentally) the transmission has lost its grip on the engine input and isn't connecting it properly to the output through the right path. In those seconds that the "flare" is occurring, wear can be greatly accelerated.

But, with that being said, I have a couple suggestions that are a bit late to this thread:

1. Check the TV linkage.
These instructions apply to both the TV rod (factory carb, CFI) or TV cable (SEFI, maybe also late carb), but obviously some details of how you do it will vary.
Ensure it is connected at both ends, and when you push it by hand at the throttle body through its full range of travel, it returns back to the closed throttle position.
If it is poorly or not connected at the throttle body, my experience makes me recommend the plastic bushing for the rod, and the brass bushing for the cable.
If not connected or not cycling properly through range of motion, car shouldn't be driven until corrected.

2. Check the transmission fluid level. Run the car for a few minutes, maybe a quick drive around the block, get it warm (no need for fully hot). Park. Cycle the shifter through every position and let it engage each time, then put it back in park. Check the dipstick. If the fluid is low, add until it isn't.


"Reading between the lines" on the symptoms, this might be a hydraulic issue and not just a burnt band. But with the months that have passed, it could very well be both now.

Explaining my rationale:
Revving higher will engage 4th. This could be a low TV, or fluid starvation issue.
Climbing hills makes it lose the gear. While climbing hills does add extra load, low fluid level could also make the trans pick up air.
Regardless of fluid level, abnormally high TV (such as a stuck linkage at WOT position) makes the AOD act really stupid, including acting like it's in neutral after second gear.
TV pressure issues can cause shifting behaviour that makes it difficult to accurately identify how many times it has shifted (re: thinks it went into 4th in regular D)

[TwiztidRat]

Yeah the fluid level is find I checked it out. Sly are you saying driving it in OD will make it worse as in than the regular drive doesn't work anymore too? Or will OD burn out completely and not move but regular drive will work. I'm not too transmission savy but a rebuilt would be cheaper now than just letting it die then replace it?

[Kodachrome Wolf]

If there's anyone nearby worth a damn that knows their way around an AOD, I'd suggest taking it there and having it rebuilt.

[massacre]

Great info here. Good luck OP

[sly]

Yeah the fluid level is find I checked it out. Sly are you saying driving it in OD will make it worse as in than the regular drive doesn't work anymore too? Or will OD burn out completely and not move but regular drive will work. I'm not too transmission savy but a rebuilt would be cheaper now than just letting it die then replace it?

OD will wear out completely. If something breaks loose in that process, it could cause more problems. So maybe both. Maybe just OD dies. And yes, rebuilt now would be less than rebuilt later because more stuff will be burned beyond use and more hard parts will need to be replaced. However if you drive in just D, you can limp it along longer while you save for the rebuild if you need a little more time. Last rebuild I heard about with this issue was about $1800. That was only a set of clutches and OD band though in an F150.

[TwiztidRat]

Okay thanks for the help guys, and yeah I don't drive the car much I take it out on the weekend just so the poor thing doesn't sit all the time, but I will just use regular drive for now until I save up for a rebuild. Gas mileage wise hasn't been that bad though even in regular drive it averages 21 on highway but around here that's keeping it at 60 only so I'm sure 75 would drop it like a stone.

[sly]

Definitely check the fluid level though. If it's low, that won't help anything.

[TwiztidRat]

Checked it, right at the full mark where it should be.

[sly]