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kishy's 2005 Focus

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    #76
    Yesterday, received my RockAuto order which included some items for this car.
    • 2x Moog inner tie rod end
    • Cabin air filter (2005 has the cabin filter decontented vs 2004, but I kept the hardware from the 04 parts car to be able to install it - not moving ahead with this at this time, but wanted to be in a position to)
    • Some Panther ball joints, parking brake cable, and coolant hoses






    After work, I decided to tackle the tie rod ends. The outers had previously been purchased and are also Moog Problem Solver.

    Started on the passenger side. Carefully un-banded the boot off the steering rack and used a specialty tool to remove the inners from the rack. I had to buy the tool as I have never touched anything with rack and pinion steering before.



    Once removed, I painted it at the threads so I'd have a reference for where it was before disassembly, then removed the outer from the inner to get the boot off. I assembled the new tie rod assembly, and reassembled the old using the paint as a reference, and compared lengths to get them as close as possible. It's getting an alignment anyway but no sense making it too far off.

    I was able to reuse the band to clamp the boot back onto the rack successfully. Passenger side complete, minus grease for the outer.

    Moved on to the passenger side engine mount, as it was getting late and I needed the impact for this. Fairly painless to change. The old one was supposedly hydraulic but had a big split in the bottom and no sign of any fluid within, plus a FoMoCo logo on it, so I'm fairly sure it was original and toast. Tested idling the engine afterwards and verified NVH is substantially improved. The new part is a cheap Chinese one from FVP; Focus people specifically warn against any cheap engine and trans mounts, but I'm giving it a shot mostly because of its lifetime warranty. I can tell you that it did improve things out of the box, so longevity is the only unknown.





    Discovered that my new exhaust hangers at the downstream cat have broken apart. The original Ford ones will have to go back on. They were in fine condition but just seemed too saggy; maybe my aggressively not-saggy new ones were too not-saggy. They were purchased in 2013ish so definitely no warranty on those.



    Moved on to the driver side tie rod. Got the old out, then discovered while assembling the new that it has tool marks from wrench slip on the hex formed into it for alignment adjustments. The part seems tight and usable but I requested replacement from RockAuto anyway. The box had been opened and re-closed with clear packing tape. Probably an overreaction and probably a usable part but I didn't feel like messing around with it. I reinstalled the original parts just loosely so I could roll the car back and forth as needed until the new one arrives. I did compare against the other one and it didn't look the same at all; nice crisp edges on the hex.



    Accordingly, car is down until the new tie rod end arrives, and tire+alignment activities are on hold until after that as well.

    Current driver: Ranger
    Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
    | 88 TC | 91 GM
    Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
    Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
    | Junkyards

    Comment


      #77
      Didn't receive the replacement tie rod end until today, so progress was held back. No pics today, just words:

      Tonight, I replaced the driver side inner and outer tie rod ends, and greased the outers. The driver side boot is in a very inconvenient location relative to other stuff so access to re-band it was basically impossible; I used a hose clamp, which I lubricated the threads of first so hopefully it comes apart nicely if ever needed in the future.

      Also replaced the failed exhaust hangers with the original parts; maybe it'll be fine. They just aren't really doing anything because they're so stretchy that they aren't under tension, which to me means the flex pipe is going to be functioning also as a hanger.

      Test drive revealed my efforts to try to get the alignment close were a total failure; it's so far toe-out that the tires scream above 20mph. Oops. Will need to get that closer before tires.

      Did find a local place with 2 pairs of 2 used tires in the right size, 75%ish tread, I looked at them and they pass visually as decent condition. $320 out the door installed for the 4. This seems to be the right option at the moment. Availability of anything new is challenging and spending $600 on tires doesn't seem sensible right now.

      Investigated the headlight stuff. Ensured bulbs were both installed in the same orientation. Pulled the bulbs out, verified they are both 9007 which is correct for the car. Looked at them powered and verified the opposite filaments are in fact lighting in each of DRL/low or high beam. To rule out a defective bulb, I poked the terminals with a meter and verified power was being delivered to the wrong places.

      I flipped the low and high beam wires on the driver side bulb socket, and all is now right with the headlights. DRLs power the low beams, the low beams are no different than the DRLs (I feel like they shouldn't be the exact same, but that's another project entirely), and the high beams are now a) brighter on both sides as well as b) the vertically higher beam pattern on both sides.

      Found some stainless steel license plate screws and put those on.

      As for cruise, it seems to be fully electronic on this (but car is not drive-by-wire therefore there is a cruise servo/motor component), and has some sort of sophisticated self-diagnostics mode that I'd like to try out. I did find my OBD II cable so I can play around with it via FORScan as well.

      This leaves the to-do list as follows:
      • Axle nut torque re-check
      • Axle nut dust caps (cannot for the life of me find the front ones; maybe it doesn't really matter though)
      • Rebuild shift tower and replace the upper transmission mount
      • Tires
      • Alignment
      • Oil spray
      • Cruise control
      • Rear bumper cover fitment issue
      • Paint a couple spots that need it
      • Insurance for her

      Continue working on once she has it:
      • Find an M18 O2 sensor plug/bolt/something along those lines

      Current driver: Ranger
      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
      | 88 TC | 91 GM
      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
      | Junkyards

      Comment


        #78
        Knocked another item off the list, as well as added an item and also finished it.

        Yesterday, pulled the car apart to get the shift tower out of the transmission. Nothing particularly hard, just removing stuff. As I noted earlier in this thread, the Focus people seem to like using a socket-head (e.g. Allen, internal hex) cap screw, M6-1.00 thread, 30mm length, class 12.9 plus a locknut to replace the factory roll pin. The roll pin has a reputation for wiggling out or shearing, and anecdotally is said to be a risk to the trans if pieces of it go the wrong places. Seems like a cheap and worthwhile fix. It was only really on my radar because a friend used to have an 06 Focus and I did this same thing with him several years ago.

        Retrospective edit for the Googlers who land here somehow: 30mm is not long enough. You want 35. Other people on the internet have said 35 was too long, but I promise you, 30 is too short and 35 is just right if you're using a nylon lock nut.











        I found the roll pin was present but maybe had done some wiggling; not sure. I knocked it out and put in the 30mm cap screw and noted there were not enough threads sticking out to really do anything useful with. The guy who said he used 30mm and found 35 to be a little too long seems to have been mistaken, or sold hardware not the length he was told it was.





        I went to Canadian Tire & Lowes, both of which carry Hillman hardware, and neither had an appropriate screw longer than 30mm. I went to Home Depot which carries Paulin hardware, and they just straight-up don't have metric socket-head screws at all. Home Hardware was closed for the night by this point and I don't really think they'd be likely to have better selection. Had to put the brakes on this project for the night and left the trans with a cardboard "lid" on top of the opening.



        Today, I went to Fastenal. Fastenal locally only deals with you if you have an account, and fortunately my work allowed me to use theirs. They did have the right hardware, but I had to buy a 50-pack. 9 dollars, not the end of the world. I'll just make sure I use M6 hardware more often going forward. Bought a bag of nylon lock nuts too, 100pk for 5 bucks.

        Got home and had the shift tower sorted out pretty quickly using the new hardware and some high-strength thread locker. Popped that back in, reassembled the rest of it, used the new trans mount in the process. Was careful not to disturb the adjustment of the shift cables because I don't have the special tool to centre the shift knob for neutral reset if I mess with the adjusters. Shifter seems to be working as before, so no harm done at least.







        Changed the spark plugs. I had purchased the new ones and sort of forgot about them. At the car's mileage, it could have still had original ones. However, what I pulled out aren't marked Motorcraft. They have an NGK part number but are oddly devoid of NGK branding. I feel like the factory plugs, even if made by NGK, would still have Motorcraft branding. Regardless, changed them since I had them. Inspected the plug wells for signs of valve cover oil leakage, nice and dry.



        I lifted the front end by the control arms (jack on each side) as best I could, and monkeyed with the alignment. Brought the toe in substantially on both sides, got it so it looked about straight to the eye. Test drive yielded good results.

        Outstanding (mildly reworked/reordered):
        • Cruise control
        • Rear bumper cover fitment issue
        • Paint a couple spots that need it - involves the bumper cover removal as it's hiding some exposed metal.
        • Axle nut torque re-check & install axle nut dust caps where available
        • Tires - set located, need to schedule install
        • Alignment - pending new tires
        • Oil spray - pending alignment
        • Insurance for her - coinciding with handing the car over
        • M18 O2 sensor plug (or maybe just leave that extra O2 sensor in the hole forever?)
        Last edited by kishy; 01-03-2023, 01:06 AM.

        Current driver: Ranger
        Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
        | 88 TC | 91 GM
        Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
        Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
        | Junkyards

        Comment


          #79
          Last night, I set about tackling these two items:
          • Rear bumper cover fitment issue
          • Paint a couple spots that need it - involves the bumper cover removal as it's hiding some exposed metal.


          The fitment issue is that the car has been mildly bumped at some point causing the bumper cover to push out and tear off of a rivet on the driver side, making the bumper cover poke out by the tail light on this side. Although minor, it looks bad. By itself, I may have left it alone, but on the passenger side of the car, the entire length of the area that the bumper cover meets the quarter panel is missing paint and has mild surface rust. So, off the cover comes.



          The bumper cover is retained to the car by 4 captive M6 bolts which are part of the bumper cover (maybe more accurately, part of the plastic inner sections that are riveted to the bumper cover). There are also a variety of plastic retainers. Everything is fairly easy to get to.







          On the driver side, the nut in the wheel well was rusted on pretty effectively and there was limited access for tools to try to improve the situation. I used the small Milwaukee cutoff tool to try to break apart the nut, which unfortunately transmitted enough heat into the inner plastic part of the bumper cover to melt it. The cover came off, but this left me with no captive hardware in it anymore. The heat damage did not affect the outside of the cover, so it isn't ruined cosmetically.

          I cleaned up the area with the surface rust, taped it, hit it with a layer of primer, let that dry, then hit it with a layer of gloss black rattle-can rust paint (with another layer due today). It will be obvious and will stand out, I am sure, but at least we won't end up with a rust hole in this panel in a couple years. Unfortunately this can of paint is previously used and the gummed-up nozzle didn't do me any favours for a thin, even coat.







          I tried to use a soldering iron to melt the torn bit of bumper cover back together and it sort of worked, a little. I then used a 2-part epoxy and aluminum rivet to re-attach it.



          I put an M6 bolt (not one of the new fancy ones) through a large washer and epoxied them together, then fed that through the hole for the captive bolt that isn't there anymore. I filled the gap around it with epoxy. It is hopefully captive there now. It doesn't need to withstand particularly high torque, it just needs to keep the bumper cover tight against the body.



          At the moment, the bumper cover is off the car, and it's awaiting the next layer of rattle can paint. After that and it dries, the bumper cover will go back on.

          Next up is a hackjob rust fix on the rearmost section of the rocker panels. I started poking, prying and peeling, and they do need some love or they're going to get dramatically worse, very quickly. Expecting to have that sorted this weekend.

          Current driver: Ranger
          Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
          | 88 TC | 91 GM
          Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
          Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
          | Junkyards

          Comment


            #80
            The bumper cover did go back on sort of nicely-ish. I'm pretty sure some stuff is tweaked from minor past collision damage. It fits better than before but not as well as it would have new. This effectively completes what I was going for above.

            I started poking at rocker rust, which did not go through, but I started wire wheeling it and things got pretty unfortunate pretty quickly. Regrets are being had, shoulda just left it. Friend knows a cheap (and acceptable but not good) body guy, going to try to just make this someone else's problem. Perfect appearance is not required but something resembling black and smoothish would be desirable.

            Junkyard-sourced cruise control module (pulled from an 07) fixed the cruise control. The part consists of 3 main components that can be taken apart from each other: electronic module, motor/gear/clutch assembly, and the cable.





            Revised/updated list is as follows:
            • Rocker panel cosmetic fixes
            • Axle nut torque re-check & install axle nut dust caps where available
            • Tires - set located, need to schedule install
            • Alignment - pending new tires
            • Oil spray - pending completion of all under-car work
            • Insurance for her - coinciding with handing the car over
            • M18 O2 sensor plug (or maybe just leave that extra O2 sensor in the hole forever?)

            Current driver: Ranger
            Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
            | 88 TC | 91 GM
            Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
            Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
            | Junkyards

            Comment


              #81
              Tires!

              Originally posted by kishy View Post
              Did find a local place with 2 pairs of 2 used tires in the right size, 75%ish tread, I looked at them and they pass visually as decent condition. $320 out the door installed for the 4. This seems to be the right option at the moment. Availability of anything new is challenging and spending $600 on tires doesn't seem sensible right now.
              Correction: $320 plus tax, balanced and installed, so $361.60 out the door cash.

              I ended up going with this option and they were installed on Tuesday. 2x Uniroyal Tiger Paw Touring with 2014 and 2015 dates, and 2x Pirelli P6 Plus with 2012 dates. All have the beginnings of minor sidewall cracking, but all are way better than the tires they replaced, and the shop is standing behind them with a "if you have any issues bring it back" type of thing. I pointed out the cracking which hadn't been apparent before inflation and in their dark tire rack, and they cut me a deal at $300 cash out the door. No complaints and no concerns outstanding. This was a difficult size to find any used tires in, and everyone immediately said "oh, for a Focus?" when I said 205/50R16, so I'd guess it isn't a common size.

              It had its alignment today, as well. $85 after tax, front end only.

              In both cases, I dropped the car off the evening before and brought my bike on the bike carrier, then rode that home. Stop by after work to pay and get my key, then return in the evening with my bike and put it back on the car. Pretty workable solution. Did the same sort of thing for the wagon's alignment. I'm heading out to get the Focus in a few minutes and am hoping it drives nice. Haven't had any issues with this alignment shop yet. They're pretty "old school" and have a diverse customer base of pretty much anything, compacts up to semi trucks.

              This leaves my list as follows:
              • Rocker panel cosmetic improvements (targeting this weekend for getting them "good enough")
              • Axle nut torque re-check & install axle nut dust caps where available (still can't find the front ones)
              • Oil spray - to be scheduled tomorrow (probably to actually occur after mom has it)
              • Insurance for mom - coinciding with handing the car over, targeting early next week
              • M18 O2 sensor plug (or maybe just leave that extra O2 sensor in the hole forever?)
              Last edited by kishy; 06-09-2022, 09:20 PM.

              Current driver: Ranger
              Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
              | 88 TC | 91 GM
              Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
              Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
              | Junkyards

              Comment


                #82
                Is it me or do these "new" tires seem to be really old tires?
                What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                Comment


                  #83
                  Originally posted by friskyfrankie View Post
                  Is it me or do these "new" tires seem to be really old tires?
                  I mean, if they were being sold at a new tire price, I sure wouldn't buy tires this old. But they're used tires, sold at a price appropriate for used tires, and in condition suitable to see years of use yet whereas the removed and disposed ones were 2010 dated, bald, and wouldn't hold air longer than a week. Not a concern to me.

                  The "new" ones are all still soft to the touch, and that is ultimately the "tell" for when a tire has past its prime - feel at the fingertips.

                  As for the alignment, the car does drive as I'd expect, and now that it has tread and tires not made of petrified charcoal, it doesn't spin them on every launch, so that's nice as well.
                  Last edited by kishy; 06-09-2022, 11:08 PM.

                  Current driver: Ranger
                  Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                  | 88 TC | 91 GM
                  Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                  Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                  | Junkyards

                  Comment


                    #84
                    Sorry - missed that they were used. Never bought used tires so I guess I wasn't thinking that way.
                    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

                    Comment


                      #85
                      6/07 Tires
                      6/09 Alignment
                      6/15 Oil Spray

                      Finally, the day has come!

                      We got the new insurance policy started up today, and took it off of "mine" (they are both my policies as I continue to be the owner of the car, but doing a separate one allows more easily for mom to pay for it, as well as allows her a favourable premium with a company that likes her market segment more).

                      After work, I:
                      -vacuumed out the car
                      -collected and put in the trunk the other items that go together with the car as a gift: bike rack, tire inflator, spare key and fob for lockouts/winter starting/whatever
                      -took it to a coin-op car wash to give it a quick spray-down
                      -filled the tank

                      and then went to pick up mom. We had dinner by the riverfront and then she drove from that point on. You could absolutely tell she hasn't driven stick in a long time (and since a time when a 4-speed was more common, and since a time when the average manual transmission car had zero torque off idle), but you could also tell that she knew what she was doing. We drove around for over an hour through mixed traffic conditions and in low-traffic residential areas so she could get the feel for where the clutch engagement point is, how the shifter feels (the springing back to centre of neutral was messing with her a bit - rightfully so, that's a stupid behaviour that cars are better without). We discussed all of the car's features and did a walk-around of all lighting and what it looks like to other drivers. That might seem stupid on the surface, but it's useful to know things like the turn signals and brake lights being combined - it affects how you use those lights to signal your intent to other drivers. She asked for this "driving lesson" and we may do more.

                      Through the evening, she got significantly better with her clutch work, and she only stalled it once, due to trying to start in third gear (RE: shifter springs back to the centre if you don't actively pull it to the left).

                      Checked the oil before I left, made sure it was still sitting on the M in MAX as it was when I filled it, and put a sticker on the sun visor for 120,000km (7000km change interval). All good and no concerns. It's her car now as far as I'm concerned.

                      Current driver: Ranger
                      Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                      | 88 TC | 91 GM
                      Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                      Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                      | Junkyards

                      Comment


                        #86
                        Right on man! Like riding a bike.

                        Yes, light behaviour is a good thing to know. Before I got a ford, I always figured whats with these dumb twat ford drivers that keep putting the brake on and off when easing forward rather than just easing off the brake pedal to roll ahead... Then I got one and realized its the stupid pedal mounted switch ford uses that if you ease up on the brakes the brake lights go out...

                        Comment


                          #87
                          Sort of a 6-month update, I guess:

                          I visited mom and swapped the winter tires on tonight. They are from 2014 and definitely past their prime, but they have tons of tread left and came off the 04 Focus parts car, so it only made sense. Of course, we've already had some significant winter weather, and she said it handled just fine on the all seasons, but if I have these I might as well use them.

                          I also repaired and delivered the OEM trunk organizer, which is basically a fold-up rigid wall that provides netted compartments for things like grocery bags.

                          Took the car for a spin and it still drives great. Very slight pull to the right, could be a tire wear pattern thing on the winter tires, or maybe she curbed it really hard and didn't tell me...no idea. But it still drives like a million bucks and doesn't make any weird noises, everything feels tight, so I'm happy about that. Could use struts but it isn't obnoxiously lofty yet.

                          116,629km on the odometer, which means she's put about 3000km on it.



                          Last edited by kishy; 01-09-2023, 11:49 PM.

                          Current driver: Ranger
                          Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                          | 88 TC | 91 GM
                          Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                          Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                          | Junkyards

                          Comment


                            #88
                            I have the Focus at my place, as my mom is out of town.

                            Monday June 5, had it oil sprayed.

                            Sunday June 11, swapped the winter tires off in favour of the all-seasons. Neither set of tires is truly great, but the winters still have enough bite left to be good for another winter (maybe 2, likely not more) so I'll save them for that.

                            Inventorying issues:
                            • There is a mild brake squeal which has been present the whole time I've owned the car. Friction material looks healthy and there's plenty remaining. Not a concern.
                            • The parking brake adjustment was never quite right and the handle has to be all the way up. Since it continues to hold the car, I'm calling it not a concern.
                            • With clutch pedal up, idling in neutral/creeping in gear, there is a rattly/wobbly noise that seems to likely be the throwout bearing. This existed when I bought the car and it has not worsened or changed, so, not a concern.
                            • The occasional long-crank issue (discussed earlier in thread; there is a TSB for powertrain reprogramming to fix it) has not worsened or become any sort of issue. Not a concern.
                            • The car sat for about a week before I went to pick it up and I found the battery was strong and it readily started.
                            • Oil was down by about half of the hatched area on the dipstick. Added a little under half a litre to bring it up to full. 2000-ish km to go on the change interval.
                            • There is a fluid leak off the bottom of the transmission housing, below the output shafts. I believe the fluid is transmission oil. The passenger side is dry. The driver side may be the source but it's also possibly coming from the seam where the casing splits apart. It is a fairly minor leak and I topped up the fluid. It took well under a quarter of a litre of fluid.
                            • The reverse lights have stopped working. This is a new issue and is a concern.
                            On the reverse lights, I first checked the bulbs which seem to be OK. I then checked for voltage at the bulb socket with key in run and shifter in R, and found 0.2V. One of those phantom readings, maybe, but basic idea is there was nothing there.

                            I checked the ground to the socket and found it is good. I then removed the upper transmission mount to get access to the reverse light switch. I found the switch is open when not in reverse, and closed when in reverse. I then checked for voltage going into the switch and found battery voltage.

                            So, without further investigating done yet, it would appear that there is either a broken wire, corroded connection, or some sort of module malfunction (is there a BCM/LCM? there sure might be) causing the issue and it may range from very easy to very stupid to fix. I'll do some reading.

                            Current driver: Ranger
                            Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                            | 88 TC | 91 GM
                            Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                            Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                            | Junkyards

                            Comment


                              #89
                              reverse lights: neutral safety switch harness is the usual culprit since the wiring is typically exposed to the elements and tends to corrode off. I would check the condition of the wires in that harness. Should be a direct line from that switch to the reverse lights IIRC.

                              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                              Originally posted by gadget73
                              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                              Originally posted by dmccaig
                              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                              Comment


                                #90
                                I spent the afternoon with my mom for Christmas (and Merry Christmas to you, too). While there, I tackled three priorities on the Focus:
                                • Take off the all-season tires and put on the winter tires
                                • Replace the sun-yellowed passenger headlamp with a perfect clear junkyard one I picked up a while ago
                                • Overall health check


                                Tires, done without incident. The older pair of the used all-seasons are getting really rough. The newer pair are reasonable but looking aged. The winters are also rather aged now but still have tons of tread, so I think what's going to happen is the winters are becoming year-round tires until they need replacement, at which point some new tires will be needed. Now, if I can get my hands on a set of 14 inch wheels for this, I have a set of brand new (I think 2019 date) winter tires hanging around that would fit. I think we can probably get a few years out of the arrangement of using the new winters for the winter and the old winters for the other 3 seasons, but I need a set of wheels first.

                                The headlight replacement also went well. There is one fastener that's hard to get at, inside the fender, but I was able to contort my arm into the right spot to get to it. It's really cleaned up the look of the car and should provide a modest light output improvement at night, as well. The driver one has a little hint of yellowing but just up in the top corner where it isn't in the actual light beam, so I may try headlight restoration stuff on that and see if it buys me any time. Mom's driveway is fully shaded all day so the yellowing should be pretty slow to return, all of what's there now was there when I bought the car.







                                The car still drives like a million bucks. Every time I drive this thing I find myself wishing I had the same car myself. It really is a joy to drive.

                                Fluid levels are as they should be. Oil change is past-due according to my arbitrary 7000km change interval (due at 120,000km, current is 121,047). Realistically we could probably stretch it to May for a full year since it looks reasonable and is full synthetic, but the weather is warm and I'm happy to find any opportunity to cut down on the amount of oil filters and jugs of oil on my shelves, so I think we'll get that done in the next few days.

                                Also tossed a new accessory belt in the trunk. The belt gets changed from below on this, so I will likely change it while doing the oil change, and then put the old one in the trunk as the breakdown spare.

                                A bonus with the way we do the insurance on this (I'm the registered owner, so the policy is in my name, with mom as the driver, and mom pays the premium): I just moved my homeowners policy to the same company, so I now get a discount on my home policy for having this auto policy, and mom gets a discount on this auto policy for me having my home. Win-win. There are other reasons I won't move companies for the other policy for my fleet of junk.

                                Reverse light fix is still outstanding. Summarizing from further up in the thread, the switch on the trans is good, and power gets to it and from it. Somewhere there's a harness problem. I'll see if I can find the shop manual for this and re-familiarize myself with where the connectors all are in that circuit.

                                Current driver: Ranger
                                Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                                | 88 TC | 91 GM
                                Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                                Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                                | Junkyards

                                Comment

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