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Thread: Engine Out Service

  1. #21
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    Having an engine leveler looks like an important part of the puzzle. I spoke today with the guy who runs the Auto Craft Shop and by his comments I'm wondering if they don't have one. I might stop by Harbor Freight and pick it up just in case.

    The fenders on the Panthers sit low enough and the engine bay is pretty generous - I'd imagine any engine hoist that could pull from a truck ought to be more than good enough for my car. The whole trick seems to be getting the engine to tilt back and then level out as you snake the trans out from its tunnel.

    If not using the brackets on the front and rear of the exhaust manifolds, what do you secure the hoist chain to on the engine?

  2. #22
    fomoco panthers !
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    I have always pulled the engine and transmission together. Much easier in my opinion. If you are going to buy a engine hoist, or engine stand, DO NOT GO CHEAP. Harbor Freight in my opinion I would not trust. I bought my hoist and stand many many years ago in the San Bernardino area from a company that specialized in making them. Very heavy duty. As far as getting the engine and trans out, You will have to remove the hood. Clearance should be no problem then.
    If you have to comply with smog regulations or if it has to pass smog when sold, I would not mess with any smog stuff. Ca. is brutal with smog. Just my opinion.

  3. #23
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    Just dont use a engine stand with a single front caster wheel. You're guaranteed to dump it moving them around. HF junk works fine on SBF's it's not like your trying to hoist a cummins.

    Personally, I leave the transmission in. I dont have a leveler, and dont want the ATF shower from the tail shaft. Just support it under the pan, you'll be good.

    I pull mine from the side fender now, with hood off since most affordable hoists even with the arm extended and chain out the end rather than the slot, you still ram the cylinder into the bumper and are a few inches forward of getting the motor straight onto the mounts. (MGM specifically, since the nose is longer) You kinda of glide it all together while it lowers since the arc of the hoist moves it back as it drops.

  4. #24
    fomoco panthers !
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    Agree will not having one caster wheel in front of engine stand. Dangerous

  5. #25
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've never had anything that would lift an engine high enough to do it with the trans. Keep in mind a Lincoln is like a foot longer in front than a Vic too so its more of a pain in the ass. Standard engine hoists are a bit short. The front plate on mine was pretty bashed up from doing the engine. I think the last time I ended up sitting it down out of position so I could extend the chain enough to let me shove it back far enough to sit down on the motor mounts. If you have an overhead XY chainfall system I can see it working with the trans but I really have no idea how you'd get all that out with a standard engine hoist.

    never tried it from the side but thats probably the better way to go. I can tell you that from the front sucks.

    keep in mind the weight, most of those are rated for 1/4 ton all the way out, which is only 500 lbs. Thats pretty much the weight of just the engine. The trans is another ~200.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
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    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

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  6. #26
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    We are talking 3 things here, engine cranes, engine stands and engine levelers. I had a old heavy engine stand with one front leg and no problems with that monster but something light and new like from HF could sure be a problem.

    It has been a loooong time but I thought I just hand raised the tail of the tranny while pulling the assembly out. Does take at least two people that way though.
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  7. #27
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I don't know anything about the engine stands at the Auto Craft Shop, but I did see their hoist is an old Pittsburgh. Hopefully it's one where the longest reach is still rated at 1/2 ton.

    I've been driving the car around town the last couple days and I'm scratching my head over the coolant leak. I know the freeze plugs are on their way out - I can see fresh coolant drops around them and below on the side of the block. And last Tuesday the radiator was about 2 inches low on coolant. But in the last two days I've checked the radiator the level has been right up at the cap. The only difference was the time it was low it had been parked on the street overnight.

    So I might not be losing as much coolant as I first thought. The engine still ought to be resealed, and with a kid coming in January there won't be a better time than now. But I am a little confused.

  8. #28
    fomoco panthers !
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    Before using a either an engine hoist or stand, check the welds for cracks and the chain for any stretched links. Bolts on the engine stand need to be grade 8 (I think). I have seen those material defects . Equipment is made cheap now. I know my comments are on the cautious side, but better to be safe than injured or your motor damaged from being dropped. I know I used a plastic plug on the tail shaft to prevent fluid from spilling all over. Last time I did that type of work was in the early 90s. For me it was not cheap but worth it to buy the right equipment.
    It is LOTS of work but some people remove the header, core support , radiator etc. Then R&R of motor and trans is a breeze.

  9. #29
    Donating Member massacre's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lutrova View Post
    I don't know anything about the engine stands at the Auto Craft Shop, but I did see their hoist is an old Pittsburgh. Hopefully it's one where the longest reach is still rated at 1/2 ton.

    I've been driving the car around town the last couple days and I'm scratching my head over the coolant leak. I know the freeze plugs are on their way out - I can see fresh coolant drops around them and below on the side of the block. And last Tuesday the radiator was about 2 inches low on coolant. But in the last two days I've checked the radiator the level has been right up at the cap. The only difference was the time it was low it had been parked on the street overnight.

    So I might not be losing as much coolant as I first thought. The engine still ought to be resealed, and with a kid coming in January there won't be a better time than now. But I am a little confused.
    In my experience, sometimes coolant leaks don't happen until it's cold outside.
    ..

  10. #30
    Carthago delenda est Lutrova's Avatar
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    I can buy that, but in this case what must've happened was no leak at all, or at least not nearly as much as I thought. I think some coolant must've passed into the overflow tank and not returned overnight, but was later sucked back into the radiator on some subsequent trip. Because I never topped off the coolant, and it didn't 'unleak'.

    Perhaps the overflow isn't drawn back in until the engine gets hot enough to start circulating coolant?

  11. #31
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    If the engine doesn't get hot enough to actually expand the coolant it won't push any out, and it won't need to pull any back either.


    Not a good fix, but if you really get in a bind and have to make it hold water, I have used the Barr's Leaks block sealer before. The head gasket on the Continental is bad and leaks coolant to the outside of the engine. It had no other issues, so rather than deal with a head gasket job that involves an easy $500 in parts I dumped a bottle of that in. Been better than a year and I haven't had a drop of coolant on the ground since. It would absolutely not be my first suggestion but sometimes you have to do something even if its wrong.

    a better but also bad option are those rubber plugs. May not last as long, but no risk of sealer crap plugging anything up either.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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