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    Engine Out Service

    While under the car last week I noticed coolant drops from freeze plugs on both sides of the block. There was no coolant on the ground, though, so I thought it might be something I could monitor. Well, after an 80 mile trip I found the radiator level was noticeably lower. It must only be leaking when the system is under pressure. Still, if two plugs are rotting out, the others can't be far behind.

    So I think it's time to do all the core plugs, which I understand requires the engine to come out. If I'm going through all the trouble, I'd like to do anything else that makes sense at the same time. The next highest priority would be resealing the engine and cleaning off years of oil and dirt. Get everything clean and dry in the engine bay and keep it that way.

    I suppose this would also be the opportunity to do timing chain and water pump. And remove the crossover tube from the smog pump.

    Are there any other big while you're in there jobs?

    I'm also thinking of doing this at the auto craft shop, which means the car will be wheeled outside while the engine work is done. As such, I think it'll be easier to pull the trans with the engine, both to make reassembly easier and to keep it from balancing on a single mount while it's being pushed around.
    1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

    #2
    Rear main seal and oil pan gasket. You probably don't have rust issues on trans cooler lines.
    Also replace any old vacuum lines if not already done.
    Did you do your engine mounts? I remember something of the sort.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      #3
      Might as well re-seal the trans as well. not too difficult, save for the shift/tv lever that has to be removed. Although thats not hard in and of itself. You could do the lower intake if you want, that often leaks at the rear, and of course valve cover gaskets. I pulled and re-sealed my engine/trans in 2018. Either re-use you motor mounts or find NOS... aftermarket ones dont fit correctly and youll hate yourself trying to get the engine back in ( i had to grind metal from both mounts with the engine already in the engine bay). I actually have 1 NOS motor mount sitting on my shelf...
      -Phil

      sigpic

      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

      Comment


        #4
        honestly I don't feel that having the engine out makes the motor mount job all that much easier. If you were doing lower control arm bushings, then yes. Access to the bolts is easy at that point. I did my mounts when I did the suspension.

        oil pan gasket would get my vote though. There are also core plugs on the front and rear of the cylinder heads. If the lower intake is leaking oil, it won't be easier with the engine in the car. If you need to change the AC evaporator, it'll also be easy with the motor out.

        The trans won't balance on the mount with no motor in. Has to be tied to something laid across the frame or the fenders for support.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          I had done one engine mount. The passenger aftermarket one fell apart on me during install. Vacuum lines have been done, as has everything involving the intake manifold. As such I'm hoping I can leave most of the engine harness connected and just disconnect the salt and pepper shakers.

          Rear main seal, oil pan, and something on the front of the engine are all seeping oil, so it'll be good to get those done.

          On the trans, I've just done the pan, extension housing, dipstick, rear seal, and speedometer. I believe that just leaves the TV cable, cooler lines, and is there some sort of front seal?

          Also, is it possible to take engine and trans out without discharging the AC?
          1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

          Comment


            #6
            Ive removed engine and kept ac system intact. Just unbolt compressor and gently lay everything on a fender blanket on your fender. Ive also left the power steering system intact at the same time...same deal...unbolt from engine and lay off to the side.
            ~David~

            My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
            My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

            Originally posted by ootdega
            My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

            Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
            But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

            Originally posted by gadget73
            my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




            Comment


              #7
              http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...l=1#post773875

              ~David~

              My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
              My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

              Originally posted by ootdega
              My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

              Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
              But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

              Originally posted by gadget73
              my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




              Comment


                #8
                Can confirm the motor mount interference (pioneer brand). The flange on the upper stamping in the clamshell is not formed all the way around the periphery, it hits the block bracket. You can eve see it in the stock photo. The trim edge pointing straight at you on the left needs to be flanged like it is on the back left edge with all the tooling marks on it. I did this with a crescent wrench and progressively formed it up. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...&pt=5552&jsn=1

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've also left the power steering and AC in the car to not have to deal with it. Easy opportunity to dump the PS pump out for a partial fluid change though.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Since you mentioned that you need to do the rear main seal, make sure to put thread sealer on those flex plate bolts.
                    After I transplanted my '89 engine into The Ice Car I ended up dropping the trans to get at what I unexpectedly thought was a rear main leak. Turns out it was leaking from those bolts, not the rear main (which was still good, but I replaced anyway since I was back in there) which dad and his friend replaced when they rebuilt that engine before I acquired the '89 from dad.
                    Vic

                    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
                    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
                    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
                    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      The PCV valve and grommet. make sure it has a good seal.
                      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I forgot to mention the most important part of the PCV system, i.e. the part most likely to give you problems, the screen.
                        03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                        02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                        08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                        12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Good to know about the PS and AC, and about the flex plate bolts. The PCV valve, grommet, and screen were the first job I did on this engine. They ought to still be good, but it's possible they caused most of the other gaskets to blow out before I changed them.

                          In digging around the forum, it sounds like the holes on the back of the heads for the smog pump are 5/8"-11. Is this correct? And what length bolt do I need?

                          I also see there are plenty of choices for timing chains, including a 'silent' option. Is there any trick to picking one? And should I be replacing the sprockets at the same time?
                          1987 Lincoln Town Car - Signature, "Prudence"

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Lutrova View Post
                            In digging around the forum, it sounds like the holes on the back of the heads for the smog pump are 5/8"-11. Is this correct? And what length bolt do I need?

                            I also see there are plenty of choices for timing chains, including a 'silent' option. Is there any trick to picking one? And should I be replacing the sprockets at the same time?
                            The official unofficial smog delete plugs for 302s have like 10-12 threads on them, so not too long.
                            I think I might be plugging the heads next spring, but with engine in situ. I'll be getting some too-long bolts, make one into a makeshift tap to clean the threads and the cut to size and put in with sealing washers. Supposedly there will be a bunch of carbon buildup in the threads.

                            I haven't even heard of "silent" chains before, a chain is a chain. Pretty much all timing sets come with chain and sprockets. Just get a good brand double roller and you'll be set for the next 200k miles.
                            Or go for a gear drive for the lols, it'll "almost" sound like it's supercharged!
                            1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
                            1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I bet the silent one is a single roller with nylon gears. Don't get it! Get a double roller, cloyes seems to be a good brand
                              -Phil

                              sigpic

                              +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                              +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                              Comment

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