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    Door Lock Actuator Bushings, Rivets

    I've been sourcing NOS door lock actuators from Ebay and it looks like they are a slightly later flavor with a 1990/91 Part Number (Everything lines up fine and plugs in fine, However, the end on the rod for these ones are a Z shape with 2 bends instead of the basic L shape that the older actuators use. This means they need a different bushing. I made one work out of a generic Dorman kit, but I was hoping to find if anyone has a Ford part number for the 1990/91 (maybe 88+) bushing?

    Also, the split rivet that retains them to the door? Most normal 1/4" pop rivets are too long.

    Clipsandfasteners.com can be hard to dig through without the OEM part number or a recent supercession.

    Part Numbers I know for sure, all are Motorcraft NOS parts

    Actuator in my 1986 Country Squire: E5AF-54218A42-AA

    Actuator from Ebay listing I purchased and installed in front pasenger door: FOAB-54218A42-AA, F1AZ-54218A42A

    Actuator on Ebay with a "U" shaped end to the lock rod but listed as 79-91 Panther: E93Z-54218A42-A

    Image of Actuator I found on this forum with L shaped link rod end: E1AF-54218A42-AA.


    Thanks for any input on bushings or rivets!
    1986 Country Squire
    1969 Mercury Cougar
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

    #2
    You can swap the rods from one actuator to another.

    Pop some sorta metal color off at the top of the actuator and then some ball bearings fall out while you remove the rod. Put the desired one on and be an reassemble? Thain knows the specifics.

    Ive heard of some people wrestling the actuator off of the mount while inside the door. Would not need to source new rivets following this method.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #3
      Auveco 19458 is the rivet. They're not a standard pop rivet, its a peel type, so the shank actually splits into 3 rather than just getting fat in the middle like a standard pop rivet.

      being perfectly honest, I've put the actuators into the bracket to avoid dealing with the rivet, I've used bolts, and I've used both the wrong and right rivets. By far the least amount of bullshit award goes to using the right rivet. Just hold the bracket tight to the door, pull the rivet down, done. Way less bleeding and cussing involved.


      and yeah swapping rods is easy. Condom off, retaining clip off, hat off, catch the 3 ball bearings, slide the rod out. Put the new rod in and put it back together. Small dab of grease helps hold the balls in position while you put the hat on.
      Last edited by gadget73; 12-21-2021, 11:17 PM.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        I always do the wrestling method David mentioned. More chance for bleeding and it's a PITA, but I still do it anyway.

        Rod swap isn't hard to do as gadget described.
        Vic

        ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
        ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
        ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
        ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

        Comment


          #5
          That rivet PN is exactly what I need, thanks! I've got an air riveter which is probably one of the most satisfying tools I've ever used, so rivets are no problem at all.
          As for the rod swapping, I'll give it a shot today on one of the dead ones I pulled out. Trying to keep all of the rubber seal intact.

          Anybody have a PN for the stock 80's lock rod bushing in orange? Mine are all pretty crumbly

          EDIT: Looks like E6AZ-5421952 is showing up as the number for similar era truck tailgate latch linkages so I might give it a shot. Anyone with a parts manual is welcome to do some deeper diving, currently browsing ebay for a parts catalog of my own
          Last edited by kellen302; 12-22-2021, 03:22 PM.
          1986 Country Squire
          1969 Mercury Cougar
          1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

          Comment


            #6
            you may or may not find something useful at this link

            http://www.grandmarq.net/gadget73/MPM/

            unfortunately no clickable links and its a little clunky to navigate but it beats the pants off nothing at all.

            Not sure what part you're after exactly but the 500 group is all related to roof bits. Sunroof seals, luggage racks, that kind of thing. The door stuff is in the 230 section. Illustration attached, let me know what number you're after specifically.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	Door lock stuff.jpg
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ID:	1289873
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              I kept life easy on myself, I cut the last bend off the 'Z' and used the twist lock bushing.

              Comment


                #8
                Fortunately, I found this site selling a load of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury parts catalogs https://www.hipoparts.com/parts-catalogs-videos/ which covers a lot of other vehicles in my fleet. Should have my catalogs delivered later this week and then I can dig into the numbers. I've also looked at cutting/bending the last leg on the lock actuator rod so I may end up doing that if replacing the rods compromises the seals.
                1986 Country Squire
                1969 Mercury Cougar
                1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

                Comment


                  #9
                  let me know if its clickable or searchable. The ones I have were shared somewhere else, and I'm pretty sure its just a pdf scan of the paper catalog. Can't click things in the image and bring up the appropriate part of the parts listing. The newer ones have that function but I think they were electronic from the beginning.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    It is indeed just a scan of the paper manuals, so no searching. But it is indexed correctly so that speeds things up when you use the asssorted tables of contents.
                    1986 Country Squire
                    1969 Mercury Cougar
                    1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

                    Comment


                      #11
                      After some part number hunting and cross referencing, these are the results I was able to order.

                      90° twist lock bushing E6AZ-5421952 also available as Dorman 703237 (75451)

                      Single round rod bushing D2VY65219A38B still available from Ford as a service part for new cars (still using parts from 1972 in modern doors apparently)

                      Peel type rivet 388047-S100 per the parts manual, RockAuto referenced to Auveco 11852



                      Now for the interior lock rod on the arm rest, does anyone have a picture of how that rod is retained in the little switch? All mine are missing, and the manual does not list it as a separate part. I'm assuming it's a little e clip or something that I can find a serviceable replacement for from McMaster.

                      Thanks!
                      1986 Country Squire
                      1969 Mercury Cougar
                      1960 Land Rover Series II 88"

                      Comment


                        #12
                        just eyeballing it, it doesn't look like that Auveco number has the large head the factory one did. The one I gave earlier does.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

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