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Thread: Door Lock Actuator Bushings, Rivets

  1. #1
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    Default Door Lock Actuator Bushings, Rivets

    I've been sourcing NOS door lock actuators from Ebay and it looks like they are a slightly later flavor with a 1990/91 Part Number (Everything lines up fine and plugs in fine, However, the end on the rod for these ones are a Z shape with 2 bends instead of the basic L shape that the older actuators use. This means they need a different bushing. I made one work out of a generic Dorman kit, but I was hoping to find if anyone has a Ford part number for the 1990/91 (maybe 88+) bushing?

    Also, the split rivet that retains them to the door? Most normal 1/4" pop rivets are too long.

    Clipsandfasteners.com can be hard to dig through without the OEM part number or a recent supercession.

    Part Numbers I know for sure, all are Motorcraft NOS parts

    Actuator in my 1986 Country Squire: E5AF-54218A42-AA

    Actuator from Ebay listing I purchased and installed in front pasenger door: FOAB-54218A42-AA, F1AZ-54218A42A

    Actuator on Ebay with a "U" shaped end to the lock rod but listed as 79-91 Panther: E93Z-54218A42-A

    Image of Actuator I found on this forum with L shaped link rod end: E1AF-54218A42-AA.


    Thanks for any input on bushings or rivets!

  2. #2
    The Brown Blob 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    You can swap the rods from one actuator to another.

    Pop some sorta metal color off at the top of the actuator and then some ball bearings fall out while you remove the rod. Put the desired one on and be an reassemble? Thain knows the specifics.

    Ive heard of some people wrestling the actuator off of the mount while inside the door. Would not need to source new rivets following this method.
    ~David~

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  3. #3
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Auveco 19458 is the rivet. They're not a standard pop rivet, its a peel type, so the shank actually splits into 3 rather than just getting fat in the middle like a standard pop rivet.

    being perfectly honest, I've put the actuators into the bracket to avoid dealing with the rivet, I've used bolts, and I've used both the wrong and right rivets. By far the least amount of bullshit award goes to using the right rivet. Just hold the bracket tight to the door, pull the rivet down, done. Way less bleeding and cussing involved.


    and yeah swapping rods is easy. Condom off, retaining clip off, hat off, catch the 3 ball bearings, slide the rod out. Put the new rod in and put it back together. Small dab of grease helps hold the balls in position while you put the hat on.
    Last edited by gadget73; 12-21-2021 at 11:17 PM.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  4. #4
    2 decades of DDing Box Panthers, now in a Whale VicCrownVic's Avatar
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    I always do the wrestling method David mentioned. More chance for bleeding and it's a PITA, but I still do it anyway.

    Rod swap isn't hard to do as gadget described.
    Vic

    ~ 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "The Scab" - plenty of rot, backup/summer cruiser
    ~ 1997 GMC Yukon SLT - wannabe winter DD - many issues, returning sometime in the 2020s
    ~ 1991 Mercury Grand Marquis GS "The Ice Car" - Rotting Retired Winter DD
    ~ 1989 Mercury Grand Marquis GS - Rotting Retired DD
    Gone but not forgotten:
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  5. #5
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    That rivet PN is exactly what I need, thanks! I've got an air riveter which is probably one of the most satisfying tools I've ever used, so rivets are no problem at all.
    As for the rod swapping, I'll give it a shot today on one of the dead ones I pulled out. Trying to keep all of the rubber seal intact.

    Anybody have a PN for the stock 80's lock rod bushing in orange? Mine are all pretty crumbly

    EDIT: Looks like E6AZ-5421952 is showing up as the number for similar era truck tailgate latch linkages so I might give it a shot. Anyone with a parts manual is welcome to do some deeper diving, currently browsing ebay for a parts catalog of my own
    Last edited by kellen302; 12-22-2021 at 03:22 PM.

  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    you may or may not find something useful at this link

    http://www.grandmarq.net/gadget73/MPM/

    unfortunately no clickable links and its a little clunky to navigate but it beats the pants off nothing at all.

    Not sure what part you're after exactly but the 500 group is all related to roof bits. Sunroof seals, luggage racks, that kind of thing. The door stuff is in the 230 section. Illustration attached, let me know what number you're after specifically.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Door lock stuff.jpg 
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    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #7
    Stow It! GM_Guy's Avatar
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    I kept life easy on myself, I cut the last bend off the 'Z' and used the twist lock bushing.

  8. #8
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    Fortunately, I found this site selling a load of Ford/Lincoln/Mercury parts catalogs https://www.hipoparts.com/parts-catalogs-videos/ which covers a lot of other vehicles in my fleet. Should have my catalogs delivered later this week and then I can dig into the numbers. I've also looked at cutting/bending the last leg on the lock actuator rod so I may end up doing that if replacing the rods compromises the seals.

  9. #9
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    let me know if its clickable or searchable. The ones I have were shared somewhere else, and I'm pretty sure its just a pdf scan of the paper catalog. Can't click things in the image and bring up the appropriate part of the parts listing. The newer ones have that function but I think they were electronic from the beginning.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #10
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    It is indeed just a scan of the paper manuals, so no searching. But it is indexed correctly so that speeds things up when you use the asssorted tables of contents.

  11. #11
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    After some part number hunting and cross referencing, these are the results I was able to order.

    90 twist lock bushing E6AZ-5421952 also available as Dorman 703237 (75451)

    Single round rod bushing D2VY65219A38B still available from Ford as a service part for new cars (still using parts from 1972 in modern doors apparently)

    Peel type rivet 388047-S100 per the parts manual, RockAuto referenced to Auveco 11852



    Now for the interior lock rod on the arm rest, does anyone have a picture of how that rod is retained in the little switch? All mine are missing, and the manual does not list it as a separate part. I'm assuming it's a little e clip or something that I can find a serviceable replacement for from McMaster.

    Thanks!

  12. #12
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    just eyeballing it, it doesn't look like that Auveco number has the large head the factory one did. The one I gave earlier does.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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