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Thread: 89 Country Squire slight miss

  1. #1

    Default 89 Country Squire slight miss

    Hello everyone, I've got a 1989 Country Squire. It seems to have a slight miss at idle when warmed up, also under load. It also would die a couple km down the road. Then would fire up a minute or so later. Then the same thing would happen.
    I've replaced so many parts on it related to the codes I had. I checked the vacuum and they're all hooked up properly, I can't see any breaks in those lines either. I was starting to think fuel pump, but the codes I have don't say it's related. Just getting frustrated the timing is also correct. Here are the codes
    11
    34
    19
    14
    13
    49
    14
    13
    4

  2. #2
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    die while driving or die at idle?
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  3. #3

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    It will die when driving

  4. #4
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Idle Control Motor and it's related ports? Can't hurt to check.

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    have you been able to check the fuel pressure?

    Also when you say restarts a few minutes later how long is that, time for the engine to cool a good bit?
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  6. #6
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    have you ever replaced the ignition module? Those are known to die when hot and come back to life when they cool. The pickup in the distributor can do the same thing. Both result in no spark.

    next time it does this, pull the coil wire off, stick a screwdriver in it, and set it up so there is about 1/2" from somewhere on the screwdriver shaft to ground. Crank the motor and see if it sparks with a blue-wire arc. If it doesn't, you know its an ignition fault. If you have spark and it doesn't run, its a fuel problem. A honk of starting fluid in the intake will tell you for sure there.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  7. #7
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    have you ever replaced the ignition module? Those are known to die when hot and come back to life when they cool. The pickup in the distributor can do the same thing. Both result in no spark.

    next time it does this, pull the coil wire off, stick a screwdriver in it, and set it up so there is about 1/2" from somewhere on the screwdriver shaft to ground. Crank the motor and see if it sparks with a blue-wire arc. If it doesn't, you know its an ignition fault. If you have spark and it doesn't run, its a fuel problem. A honk of starting fluid in the intake will tell you for sure there.
    Good call - forgot about the TFM. Certainly a possibility but I would also check out the ICM.

  8. #8

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    Thanks for all the replys so far. I've replaced the IAC, the ICM is a new motorcraft, new tps, purge valve, egr.
    When it does die, it restarts in roughly 30 seconds to a minute.
    As for fuel pressure I haven't been able to check it yet. I have to get a pressure gauge. I can run the car in the driveway for an hour and it won't stall out at all. It just at times runs a little rough. Timing is correct also

  9. #9
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    I'd also check your alternator and battery output. Weak electrical output to electronics can do some strange shit. Just witnessed that on a friend's Tempo where everyone thought it was a fuel issue. Would rev up and down and then stall and the issue "seems" to be erratic alternator output! So far, a new alternator appears to have fixed the problem.

  10. #10
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    I had the ECM relay fail on me once. Gave me similar symptoms but no codes.

    Listen for the fuel pump while the problem is occurring. Fuel pressure check would be ideal. I would pull the SPOUT when it happens if the fuel checks okay and see if that makes any difference. Be sure your base timing is right as well as well. Car should idle (slowly) with IAC unplugged/warmed up.

    Are your codes engine off or running? You have to get a code 11 on KOEO first, then KOER. You may be getting some continuous memory codes.

    34 is EGR related. 19 isn't listed for a 5.0 in my 88 manual. 14 is erratic ignition (see the above about the distributor pickup), 13 is something is curb idle out of spec, 49 isn't listed for a 5.0.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    I've also seen a power feed to the ignition coil do this. flex it just the wrong way and it loses power.

    Fuel and ECM relays are a good guess. Usually whacking them with a screwdriver will test that. If it stumbles or stalls when tapped, the relay(s) are bad.

    19CM is this
    Cylinder Identification CID circuit failure.

    I have no idea what that means, or if it actually applies. Some codes don't actually apply to all vehicles.

    49 is this
    SPOUT signal default to 10 BTDC.

    or (not) this
    1 – 2 shift error (E4OD).

    You don't have an E4OD so it can't be that second one.

    13 is an engine running code, it sounds misleading but what it actually means is the RPM cannot be lowered enough for the self-test to be happy. Usually thats vac leak but it could be sticky IAC, bad/junk IAC, or someone has been tinkering with the throttle stop screw. I've also had it when the throttle body was changed and the air bleed hole is bigger than the original. I have had to seal that hole up in the past but unless you have changed the throttle body I very much doubt its that.

    with the several ignition related codes though, I'd really be curious about the pickup in the distributor.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  12. #12

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    The codes I got were from KOEO. Mind you I was counting the blinks on the dash. I've tried 3 different obd1 code readers and none connect to the car. Definitely going to bet a fuel pressure gauge

  13. #13

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    I did play with the fuel relay on the drivers fender a few weeks ago. The wires and connector looked great. When I unplugged it, obviously the car died lol. The pump was sounding a bit louder than normal, but after correcting some vacuum lines (purge valve wasn't connected) that were wrong it seems quieter.. maybe just me though.

    I did play with the screw a while back because the car was idling high, before I replaced all those other parts. Now it idles lower.
    I'm starting to suspect the pick up like mentioned before. I've never done a distributor replacement before so kinda worries me a little lol

  14. #14
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    Yup follow the advise. Find out if it is spark or fuel the next time it cuts out.

    Odd that you cant get a code reader to work. That does not seem right.

    Have you tried the inova? A simple one that worked for me for many years. Even ran the cylinder power balance test on many cars including my old 89.

    https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3145-F...ps%2C84&sr=8-1
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

  15. #15

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    I'll definitely be following all advice that's been given. I really appreciate all of it.
    I haven't tried that reader. But I tried one at the ford dealer, an old antique one from an old shop, and one at another shop. Just doesn't read anything when connected. I do really like that one you posted

  16. #16
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    thats the same one I have. Only time it gave me trouble reading codes, the connector under the hood was crusty. A few shots of contact cleaner and a light scrape with a small screwdriver made it behave.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  17. #17
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    Mine went to the great Garbage dump in the sky a few years ago after maybe 12-14 yrs of use.
    03 Marauder DBP, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, Blue Fuzzy Dice
    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated Cooper Zeon RS3-A, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
    08 Escape Limited V6 Auto, Beamtech LED headlight bulbs,

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