Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Rebuilding a Motorcraft/Autolite 2100 - a carb newbie needs advice

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Rebuilding a Motorcraft/Autolite 2100 - a carb newbie needs advice

    To give some background, I'm planning to convert one of my Harbor Freight engine stands into a test stand so that I can run the 302 that will eventually go into my '66 Mustang. This will be the first engine I've ever built myself; I won't have any help other than a copy of "How to Build Small Block Ford Engines" and YouTube. I'm planning to take my time and do it right. That said, I want to be able to rule out any issues with it before I drop it into the car. I acquired what I believe is a Motorcraft 2100 carb that was attached to a junk 302 engine that I got for free from a friend. I think this carb and the 2-barrel intake that was on the junk engine would be perfect for running an engine as mild as what I'm building just for the purpose of ensuring everything is done right with no leaks or obvious problems. It's going to be a standard bore 302 with GT-40 heads and a mild cam.

    With the background out of the way, I know nothing about carbs. I need some pointers on working with them and some recommendations on a good rebuild kit.







    —John

    1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

    #2
    Can't recommend any specific rebuilt kits, but basically tear it apart, clean any gunk, hose all passages thoroughly with carb cleaner, fresh gaskets and bam.

    First you should check if it even is worthy of a rebuild, check for slop in the throttle shafts and mechanism and if the butterflies sit snugly in the bores.
    You can fix that but it might not be worth the effort since those carbs aren't exavtly scarce.

    It should run okay even with the stock jetting if you're not building the engine too much, but it will be somewhat restrictive. I think 2150s for 302's were rated 287CFM. (your carb is a 2150 btw)
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

    Comment


      #3
      Yup, Step one as stated above and also check it is flat to minimize the likelihood of a leak at the manifold.

      You will need detailed instructions if you really want it to come out correctly the first time. Some kits used to come with the necessary gauges and instructions specific to the particular carb. Not sure if that is still the case as I am talking decades ago. Don't forget to weigh the float. Even when they were within specs I have had to replace them .

      Are you going to fuel inject the engine?
      Last edited by jaywish; 01-30-2022, 03:26 PM.
      03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
      02 SL500 Silver Arrow
      08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
      12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

      Comment


        #4
        Here is one listing for a rebuild kit but if it were me, I'd just get a new carb. Takes the guess work out of any issues down the line. Now if you are an extremely tight budget or merely want the experience, have at it!

        https://www.ebay.com/itm/15325389185...YAAOSwIw1b5bfQ

        P.S. That carb in the photos looks like it has seen better days. Not sure a rebuild will fix every issue it may have.
        What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
        What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

        Comment


          #5
          I rebuilt a 2150 for the F250 and it's flawless. It's the original carb for the truck and I'm sure that makes a difference. It's basically the same as a 2100.

          There are different Venturi sizes. Should be a number on the side of the fuel bowl, 1.01, 1.08, 1.21, 1.23 was the biggest for I think the original application is important for getting it to run right. I tried two 4100s on my 68, both big block carbs. Neither ran right. The jets can be easily changed, but the boosters are where the magic tune is from what I have read. Ford had lots of different boosters to tune them with a code on bottom, but there isn't a database of what the differences are. It's a crap shoot.

          There will be a number and letter combination on the left front foot that should tell us what it came from.

          I used the Standard "Hygrade" kits and was happy with them. Berkebile 2+2 is awesome carburetor cleaner. The dip from Berryman isn't bad either for soaking. I use a torch tip cleaning tool to get into the small passages.

          I would run a four barrel. Take advantage of those heads. Intakes are pretty cheap at swap meets. Get a dual plane. The old Edelbrock 4106 is on mine now and it starts, idles, and runs very well, even with my E6 heads and stock iron intake.
          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by jaywish View Post
            Yup, Step one as stated above and also check it is flat to minimize the likelihood of a leak at the manifold.

            You will need detailed instructions if you really want it to come out correctly the first time. Some kits used to come with the necessary gauges and instructions specific to the particular carb. Not sure if that is still the case as I am talking decades ago. Don't forget to weigh the float. Even when they were within specs I have had to replace them .

            Are you going to fuel inject the engine?
            The engine will be fuel injected in the car, yes.

            Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
            I rebuilt a 2150 for the F250 and it's flawless. It's the original carb for the truck and I'm sure that makes a difference. It's basically the same as a 2100.

            There are different Venturi sizes. Should be a number on the side of the fuel bowl, 1.01, 1.08, 1.21, 1.23 was the biggest for I think the original application is important for getting it to run right. I tried two 4100s on my 68, both big block carbs. Neither ran right. The jets can be easily changed, but the boosters are where the magic tune is from what I have read. Ford had lots of different boosters to tune them with a code on bottom, but there isn't a database of what the differences are. It's a crap shoot.

            There will be a number and letter combination on the left front foot that should tell us what it came from.

            I used the Standard "Hygrade" kits and was happy with them. Berkebile 2+2 is awesome carburetor cleaner. The dip from Berryman isn't bad either for soaking. I use a torch tip cleaning tool to get into the small passages.

            I would run a four barrel. Take advantage of those heads. Intakes are pretty cheap at swap meets. Get a dual plane. The old Edelbrock 4106 is on mine now and it starts, idles, and runs very well, even with my E6 heads and stock iron intake.
            The engine will get fuel injection when it's in the car. I'm only wanting to use this carb to test it outside the car before it gets installed. That's one reason I'm wanting to avoid buying a brand new carb or intake to go with it. I'd like to stick with what I already have to save money since it's only going to be for testing purposes anyway.
            —John

            1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
            1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
            1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
            1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Giraffe View Post
              The engine will be fuel injected in the car, yes.


              The engine will get fuel injection when it's in the car. I'm only wanting to use this carb to test it outside the car before it gets installed. That's one reason I'm wanting to avoid buying a brand new carb or intake to go with it. I'd like to stick with what I already have to save money since it's only going to be for testing purposes anyway.
              Now it makes sense to rebuild the present carb. I thought you were going to leave a carb on it which is why I suggested a new one.
              What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
              What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

              Comment


                #8
                It should be a pleasant little job if you like that kind of thing. I suggest getting one of those gallon pails of cleaner with the little part screen inside. You need the instructions to show how to set the float and throttle plates and perhaps other things like the linkages etc. The gallon won't go to waste as you likely will need it for other stuff like small engine carbs.
                03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                Comment


                  #9
                  like this. No saying this particular one is a good deal, or not, just the first one I found online

                  Chem-dip
                  https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Prod...ps%2C96&sr=8-2

                  Even if the carb does not fit you can use the fluid in a container that fits it then pour it back in can and use the parts tray for all the small stuff. But it might very well fit once it is disassembled.
                  Last edited by jaywish; 01-31-2022, 05:09 PM.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                    like this. No saying this particular one is a good deal, or not, just the first one I found online

                    Chem-dip
                    https://www.amazon.com/Berryman-Prod...ps%2C96&sr=8-2

                    Even if the carb does not fit you can use the fluid in a container that fits it then pour it back in can and use the parts tray for all the small stuff. But it might very well fit once it is disassembled.
                    Thanks! I’ve seen that stuff before. Never needed any until now.

                    Number one in replacement automotive control arms, apparently.
                    —John

                    1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
                    1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
                    1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
                    1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X