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Break Line rusted out, leak, no power breaks

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    Break Line rusted out, leak, no power breaks

    OK, so my break line sprung a leak since it is rusted out and due to age. The one on the driver side front by the tire and under the floor pan. Local shop says they won't touch it.

    Was going to try a few places that also work on classic cars. What information can I provide to help them? Am I correct in assuming there are universal break lines that are made that need to be bent, cut, etc. of certain sizes? What size is our cars?

    #2
    They are 3/16".

    Not sure why a shop wouldn't want to make you a new line. They are fairly easy to make with flaring and bending tools. In a pinch, I have used whatever premade length comes closest to the original, and roll with it.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

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      #3
      You should prob check all your brake lines
      Might be more than 1 that's bad
      ..

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        #4
        Replacing brake lines is a common thing to do. Especially in the rust belt. Best way is replace the whole line. Agree on checking the other lines while you are there. Make sure new brake line fasteners to the frame are used. Lines should not be hanging. Find another shop who isn't afraid of brake lines.

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          #5
          Reason i said that is because i lost brakes in my exploder 3x in 1 month. Was like brake line russian roulette. Had to replace them all.
          ..

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            #6
            Also you might request that the shop use Copper Nickel lines which are highly rust resistant and very easy to use. If not them then at least a coated steel line.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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              #7
              There isn't much magic to this, but there is risk of breaking the prop valve if the line is really rusted to it. Driver's side at the A pillar is usually where the rear line usually fails.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #8
                Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                Also you might request that the shop use Copper Nickel lines which are highly rust resistant and very easy to use. If not them then at least a coated steel line.
                VERY good advice in addition to checking ALL lines along with the brake line hoses at the wheels.
                What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
                What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

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                  #9
                  replace all the lines. they are 3/16" Use nickel copper line.
                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                  just ordered a new type of flaring tool that is suposdedly foolproof
                  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                  you will probably have to replace the wheel cylinders and the brake hoses and possibly the calipers if things are rusted and stuck.

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                    #10
                    Let us know how the tool works out.
                    03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                    02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                    08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                    12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                      #11
                      Thats interesting. Guessing you put the line in the block from one side and screw that die in from the other? I've got the kind with the block and the screw press thing and all that. Easy to screw up with that one.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I have a hydraulic flaring tool, works the balls. Kinda pricy but worth it to me
                        ..

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                          #13
                          I bought the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool a decade ago for my brake lines. Paid for itself after the 1st two brake line jobs. Also bought the 37* flaring die for making -AN hard lines. That tool for me, is a must-have tool.

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                            #14
                            Got my car back. This places specializes in restoring old Datsuns. Anyway, things seem to be working fine. I think they are knowlegeable about older cars which seems to be rare here in California. So far, I'd go back again if I need other services.

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                              #15
                              It is good to find a shop you trust. Perhaps you could consider a shop that works on old mustangs? That would be a closer fit.
                              03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                              02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                              08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                              12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                              Comment

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