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Thread: Pinion flange

  1. #1
    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    Default Pinion flange

    What methods do you guys use for removing and installing the pinion flange? I especially need to know if it's possible to screw something up when installing it, by tightening it too much or something.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  2. #2
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve when you pull the pinion flange off.

    I never have. When I take the nut off, I mark it and the pinion gear and count the threads as I unscrew it. When you put it back on, put it back in the same spot.

    If for some reason it's still loose or tightens early, you messed up your count.

    I have seen people just use an impact and stop as soon as it snugs up.
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    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    You should use a beam torque wrench to check rotational resistance once the nut is on. Don't remember exactly what the spec is but something like 24-28 foot pounds. With a fresh crush sleeve, I think that's about 2-3 ugga duggas. Best to check after each ugga dugga if using an impact.

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    Member ootdega's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiggie View Post
    You are supposed to replace the crush sleeve when you pull the pinion flange off.

    I never have. When I take the nut off, I mark it and the pinion gear and count the threads as I unscrew it. When you put it back on, put it back in the same spot.

    If for some reason it's still loose or tightens early, you messed up your count.

    I have seen people just use an impact and stop as soon as it snugs up.
    I'll be replacing the 1310 flange with a 1350, so I'll have to compare thickness when I get it off. If they're the same, I'll replicate the mark. I'm definitely not brave enough to use an impact to tighten things.


    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    You should use a beam torque wrench to check rotational resistance once the nut is on. Don't remember exactly what the spec is but something like 24-28 foot pounds. With a fresh crush sleeve, I think that's about 2-3 ugga duggas. Best to check after each ugga dugga if using an impact.
    At first I thought "ugga dugga" was a joke, but then I looked it up and my brain had to reboot.

    I will have to make do with a regular torque wrench, but I don't think that should be too hard. I have the holy texts to consult for the torque specs, no worries there.



    I'm sure this is going to make me sound dumb, but bear with me: I understand how to get the flange off, but I'm still trying to wrap my head around how to get it pressed back on, and how to do so properly without damaging something. I'm sure there's the rubber mallet method, but I'd rather not if I can help it.
    89 Grand Marquis GS.

    Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

  5. #5
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    The flange should slip on far enough to get the nut on it. Use the nut to pull it the rest of the way on.

    Also... if you only have a click type torque wrench... set the low end of the torque spec... once that clicks, set it to the top end and make sure you didn't go past it.

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    You need a flange tool to keep pinion from spinning while you are tightening the nut. Though since you are not disassembling the pumpkin Perhaps the Ebrake might do the trick. Never tried that. It takes a good amount of force to crimp that sleeve. There is also a no-crush version. I remember that being much easier when I used one of those but i can't remember the details except that I was also doing new bearings.

    It is kind of vague but the no crush version may only work when carrier is out. I am not really sure. I kind of remember needing to tighten the nut then check periodically with an inch lb. beam torque wrench to measure for correct tightness. Same process I believe when using a standard crush sleeve when doing new bearings except the tighten part was much harder.
    Last edited by jaywish; 05-20-2022 at 12:38 AM.
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    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    You should use a beam torque wrench to check rotational resistance once the nut is on. Don't remember exactly what the spec is but something like 24-28 foot pounds.
    Not quite foot pounds

    "Pinion bearing preload with used bearings to 0.9-1.6 Nm (8-14 lb-in), and new bearings to 1.8-3.2 Nm (16-28 lb-in.)"
    https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...HTM-4209-8.PDF
    Page 13. Also notable: "Minimum torque required to tighten pinion flange nut to obtain pinion bearing preload, 140 lb-ft."
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"

  8. #8
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    The thing I am thinking is that the in lb. spec is that the axles and carrier may have to be out to get the correct torque reading. That I can't remember offhand.
    Last edited by jaywish; 05-20-2022 at 09:06 AM.
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  9. #9
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    Perhaps the service manual will give a procedure for just replacing the flange. It may be remove wheels, brakes and rotors, measure and record the rotational force, replace flange and tighten nut, measure force, repeat in very small increments till the rotational force of the preload matches the original measurement.

    You don't want to overtighten. Then a new crush sleeve is required. So it may not be a bad thing to have a spare on hand. How do I know? IIRC it is easy to get tired of very small increments and overdo it when you are at the end of the process.

    Ootdega. Has the rear been rebuilt? How many miles? Perhaps it is time to replace the axle bearing seals, if not the axle bearings, at the very least? When the seals go it often wipes out the whole rear pretty quickly particularly if the car is ever parked sideways on even a slight incline the oil just pours out the end.
    Last edited by jaywish; 05-20-2022 at 09:09 AM.
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  10. #10
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    Ah... pound inch. That makes more sense.

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  11. #11
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    There is a procedure for R&R of the flange. If you're doing nothing else, change the seal while you're at it, they're like 3 bucks.

    Basically the procedure as I recall from doing this on the Continental when the seal was bad:

    use your inch-pound torque wrench to determine rolling resistance of the diff before you do anything else. Note this number

    remove the pinion nut. Probably need to make a tool to bolt to the flange to hold it. I used a piece of angle iron with a couple holes in it, and two of the drive shaft bolts.

    Change what you need to change

    Put the flange back on and run the nut down until its not loose.

    Look at your note for the original rolling torque spec. If that number is beyond whatever the manual specifies, tighten the pinion nut until the rolling torque matches that number. If it is below book spec, tighten the pinion nut until you have book spec for rolling torque. The Continental read nothing on the torque wrench so I made it tighter until it was whatever spec is for a 7.5" rear. The 8.8 is the same design and has the same instructions, just don't remember what the specific rolling
    torque value is meant to be.


    The value is pretty low, 8-14 lb-in as mentioned above sounds about right, so its going to need to be a weenie little wrench. Mine is 3/8 drive but the whole thing fits in the palm of my hand. I have a 1/4 drive one that is a bit longer but the beam looks more like thick pasta than a steel bar. The pinion nut is big enough to likely need a 1/2 drive socket so get whatever stack of adapters is needed to connect stuff together.

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  12. #12
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Can you get a 1/2 drive torque wrench that goes down that low (8-14 lb-in)?
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  13. #13
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    no you most likely need a 1/4" beam torque wrench and 2 square drive adapters. 1/2male to 3/8 female and 3/8male to x1/4female

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    It is almost not important that you use a large torque wrench for this as you will be gradually making the nut tighter, measure in lbs make nut tighter tighter measure in lbs and repeat gradually and often. Yes change the seal as gadget said.

    A pipe and a 1/2" breaker bar might be sufficient as muscle control of the tightening force is most important so you don't overshoot the mark. have a spare crush sleeve on hand. Small increments.
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  14. #14
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    yeah once you approach proper rolling torque it goes from nothing to in spec in a pretty small amount of big wrench travel.

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