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Thread: My '95 Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  1. #61

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    The same hitch fits B-bodies all the way back to 1977. It fits D-bodies, too, but I don't know how far back.

    There's an owner's manual reference to 7,000 lb trailers with tow package and a load leveling hitch, but I understand load levelers aren't legal in Europe. Fleetwoods with the 3.73 rear were rated @ 7,000 lbs, but nothing officially goes that high for the wagons.

    The tow pack added gearing, extra coolers, and the mechanical fan. Your car already has the coolers. I think your car will be fine towing 4K if trailer brakes are used (I believe surge brakes are mandatory in EU and thus built into the trailer) and you take things easy going uphill.

  2. #62
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    I've towed ~3400-3500 pounds with my 93 vic. It gets a little sketchy in sweeping curves. My 03 Expedition weighs another 1500 pounds and the tow rating is 6050 pounds. Same load with that is no issue except accelerating since it's pretty much the same engine as what's in the 93 (2-valve 4.6L). The 93 will pull "harder" since it weighs 1500 pounds less, but the brakes are a LOT better on the Expedition and it will stop way faster with a trailer. This trailer also has no brakes. It's the back half of a pickup truck (81 F150). I wouldn't wanna town anything more than 3500 pounds behind one of these land yachts though they will pull 5K... the stopping isn't fun if the trailer brakes aren't there. Of course, it's also illegal to not have trailer brakes over 4K in Texas (3K in some other states that I know of). And since I can't find an electric brake kit for a Ford 9-inch rear axle, if I'm ever required to get trailer brakes for it, it'll probably be axle swap time (if not scrap time since it's a rust bucket).

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  3. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by sly View Post
    This trailer also has no brakes. It's the back half of a pickup truck (81 F150). I wouldn't wanna town anything more than 3500 pounds behind one of these land yachts though they will pull 5K... the stopping isn't fun if the trailer brakes aren't there. Of course, it's also illegal to not have trailer brakes over 4K in Texas (3K in some other states that I know of). And since I can't find an electric brake kit for a Ford 9-inch rear axle, if I'm ever required to get trailer brakes for it, it'll probably be axle swap time (if not scrap time since it's a rust bucket).
    If the F150 brakes are still there, you could convert them to surge brakes by changing the trailer coupler to one with a hydraulic actuator. If you shop carefully, new lines, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, and new spring hardware, plus the actuator, and you'll probably be into the project for less than the cost of a new axle with electric brakes.

    https://www.pmstorese.com/titan-dico...brake-actuator

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dragonwagon View Post
    If the F150 brakes are still there, you could convert them to surge brakes by changing the trailer coupler to one with a hydraulic actuator. If you shop carefully, new lines, new wheel cylinders, new shoes, and new spring hardware, plus the actuator, and you'll probably be into the project for less than the cost of a new axle with electric brakes.

    https://www.pmstorese.com/titan-dico...brake-actuator
    Yeah... I've priced all of that. Swapping to a 3500# trailer axle with electric brakes would still save about a grand. The surge masters are really spendy. The electric over hydraulic is even worse.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  5. #65
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I got the ALDL cable and the Scan9495 working. Took her for a spin with the live data on but I don't know jack shit of what I'm supposed to look at.
    Here's a screencap of the transmission tab:

    Link so you can maybe see better: https://img.aijaa.com/b/00225/15078030.jpg

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Näyttökuva (3).jpg   15078030.jpg  
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  6. #66
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    My summer job contract ended on Friday, the few weeks I got to commute with this brough it very close to the 350k KM mark.

    I've fixed a couple nicknacks, the 3rd brake light (a couple more times), gas struts, headlight aiming, armrest. Changed the plugs today, previous owner recommended I'd do it. The old ones were Champions aswell, looked pretty good and not too too old.
    Some dumbasses those GM engineers, takes a special kind of idiot to engineer all accessories, AC & trans cooler lines, EGR pipes and wiring harness ALL on the right side of the engine. Took me 15 minutes to change the driver side plugs, over an hour for the right side.

    The 3rd brake light has proved to be a total PITA, constant contact issues. The light is mounted on the rear glass, and the tailgate has spring loaded contacts which get pressed against the contacts on the brake light assembly thats fixed to the glass. A shit design, way too many loose contact points. I might jerry rig a different solution altogether, I'm thinking an LED housing attached to the rear headliner with zero moving connector points.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  7. #67
    Still Wrenchin'! friskyfrankie's Avatar
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    Any way to get an old Ford 3rd light and wire/mount that?
    What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

  8. #68
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by friskyfrankie View Post
    Any way to get an old Ford 3rd light and wire/mount that?
    Doesn't really matter what it is, might get some cheapo from a industrial shop or go to the junkyard. Haven't put any though into this yet.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  9. #69
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    don't suppose you could eliminate the spring contact crap and just use flexible wire ?

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  10. #70
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73 View Post
    don't suppose you could eliminate the spring contact crap and just use flexible wire ?
    It's a clamshell type tailgate, if you didn't know. I dunno how you'd do what you said. The spring contact crap is in the middle on top of the metal tailgate, and the glass contacts it there.
    Like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  11. #71
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    Yeah... that's not an easy fix to try to run that up to the top and install a light from the ceiling. Might be worth putting some silver (conductive) epoxy on the contacts on the glass. Obviously let it cure before closing the glass again. If that's not a good option (can't park in a garage), you can try using some packing tape over the contacts on the tailgate to keep the epoxy from curing to them and close the glass. If the contacts can be removed from the door during the curing period, that would be better.

    The conductive epoxy is typically used for repairing the wire contacts to rear defroster grids. There's several varieties out there. The one I prefer is MG Chemicals 8331-14g. It's the one I used on the tab on my Expedition's rear glass defroster. Works very well.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  12. #72
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Ah, I was thinking the third light was up at the top near the hinge, not in the middle.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  13. #73
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I have found the problem and the cause. There's poor contact because the spring contacts don't reach their counterparts properly.
    That's all because the rear glass doesn't shut all the way! It latches but it's too far out. Weatherstripping tells the same story, barely touches the glass on the bottom edge.

    I'll dismantle the tailgate tomorrow and see if the latch is adjustable/shimmable.


    Today I got a gnarly stone chip on the windshield and went to get it fixed, there I noticed that the shock from the stone made a previous chip repair crack even larger. Glass guy found 6 big chips, 2 of which were repaired. I had them fix just the new one since it started cracking. The windshield is a piece of shit anyways, atleast 18 years old, probably original. Tons of small chips, scratches and one crack thats a couple inches long. And I don't want to replace it because it's crap. With my luck a new windshield would eat shit within a week, also getting new glass for a Caprice in Finland isn't the easiest or cheapest thing.

    Since a couple weights have yeeted themselves, I got the summer tires rebalanced, old BFGs from 2011, guy at the tire shop chuckled: "you've got tread but they're hard as rocks and a couple aren't exactly round..." Good enough for this summer!
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  14. #74
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    Yeah... that would cause the bad contact for sure. Not making the contact at all does tend to not conduct electricity.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  15. #75

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    Quote Originally Posted by Arquemann View Post
    I have found the problem and the cause. There's poor contact because the spring contacts don't reach their counterparts properly.
    That's all because the rear glass doesn't shut all the way! It latches but it's too far out. Weatherstripping tells the same story, barely touches the glass on the bottom edge.

    I'll dismantle the tailgate tomorrow and see if the latch is adjustable/shimmable.


    Today I got a gnarly stone chip on the windshield and went to get it fixed, there I noticed that the shock from the stone made a previous chip repair crack even larger. Glass guy found 6 big chips, 2 of which were repaired. I had them fix just the new one since it started cracking. The windshield is a piece of shit anyways, atleast 18 years old, probably original. Tons of small chips, scratches and one crack thats a couple inches long. And I don't want to replace it because it's crap. With my luck a new windshield would eat shit within a week, also getting new glass for a Caprice in Finland isn't the easiest or cheapest thing.
    Is the tailgate completely up, or just at the first click? That would be a simple explanation for the misalignment. Note that unless it's completely latched, it probably won't let you use it as a side-hinged door.

    PPG part number for the replacement windshield is DW1275 for the solar glass, or DW1274 for non-solar. The fit should be the same for both part numbers. A lot of the Chinese replacements use the 1275 part number for the non-solar glass. If you find a new windshield over there, it probably will be the regular glass unless it's used.

  16. #76
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    I got the glass latch adjusted, latches way tighter now. Gotta either press it with both hands to click it latched or do a very minor slam. Sure as shit won't leak water in anymore.
    And most importantly, the center brake light works again.

    I've gotta say, the rear tailgate on this thing is unbelievably over-engineered.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  17. #77
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    As I mentioned in Maisa's thread, I ordered an AC component kit for this aswell. I didn't intend to, but I'll get the AC fixed now anyways. Costs money but it not working won't bug me anymore then. Leaving things broken just doesn't jive with my brain.

    Today I fiddled with the headlight wiring, which is a total trainwreck by the way... Old wiring, DRLs, some canadian fiddlefuckery and on top of that some Finnish legislative "modifications".
    Butt connectors, scotch locks, extra bulb sockets, modified sockets, extra plugs and grounds.
    From reading online, I've concluded that the smaller housings are for side marker lights and "cornering lights".
    On the main headlight housings there's the blinker/park light and hi/low beam ...aand an added T10 yellow parking light socket.

    When the car is off, switching on the "parking lights" switches on the actual parking lights, aswell as the cornering lights and side marker lights. Switch on headlights, the low beams come on.
    The cornering lights are constantly on if the switch is on park/headlights. Also they are supposed to be 2057 bulbs, not T10. My car shouldn't even have cornering lights, so these must've been added.
    With the power on/ engine running, the low beams are on, regardless of headlight switch position. Not that it's a problem really, I just don't like it.
    With the indicator on, the side indicator lights also blink. Is it supposed to do that?


    Tjoh, this car is supposedly equipped with daytime running lights, which is supposed to be some light-sensitive setup. Which obviously doesn't work right as the low beams are on constantly.
    I guess I should first try to find the ambient light sensor.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  18. #78
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I do know that pretty much all GM vehicles from the mid 70's and on (My 1979 G10 did this) the side marker flashed in unison with the corresponding side's parking light. Headlights off, they flashed at the same time. Parking or headlights on, the flashed opposite- so when the parking light flashed, the side marker was out and vice versa. Neat little engineering feature. You can make boxes do this too, fairly easy I think. Want to say David did that with his minty '87.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

  19. #79
    Lost and driftin' Arquemann's Avatar
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    Anyways, I found the ambient light sensor, (which looks like a piece of blue transparent plastic on a light socket), it didn't do any better being all the way open to the sun.

    I just unplugged the DRL module mounted behind the pass. kick panel. Now my all* the lights work like they should, and all come on from the headlight switch.
    *Except the "cornering lights", which shouldn't even be there. I think I'll remove just remove them completely.

    @DerekTheGreat
    Yes, I noticed it now on this car now that the bulbs aren't blown, I've seen it before on others. I hate it.
    I'm glad I have a box Grand Marq and not a Vic, no separate side markers on mine!
    Last edited by Arquemann; 08-23-2022 at 09:42 AM.
    1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
    1995 Chevrolet Caprice Classic STW, "Sally"

  20. #80
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I like "divorced" side markers as to me it meant extra cost. Had to tool in additional designs within the sheet metal or make another lens or whatever. Much cheaper to just to have one assembly with everything incorporated into it, and to me that shows. I like the look and appreciate it. My Firebird for example, you can't see the front parking light from the side. So if you're trying to signal which direction you'd like to turn or to change lanes, someone who can't see that light would have no idea of your intentions. However, due to that neat little bit of engineering, the side marker flashes and thus communicates the driver's intentions on GM vehicles.

    Yes, one of the other reasons I prefer the Ford box over the Mercury flavored one. Cooler taillights (87' and older..) and separate rear side markers. They do not have divorced front stuffs though, but do have their own little side marker.
    Last edited by DerekTheGreat; 08-23-2022 at 10:43 AM.
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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