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    #16
    Originally posted by friskyfrankie View Post
    How about getting an OEM cap made for a 91? That way, you know the cap "shouldn't" be a potential problem. By the way, do you know the radiator is clean in and out?
    I pressure washed the radiator yesterday, and the cooling system is pretty rusty, I flushed it probably 25 times and still brown

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      #17
      Originally posted by 91merc View Post
      I pressure washed the radiator yesterday, and the cooling system is pretty rusty, I flushed it probably 25 times and still brown
      To get rust out, use a product called Thermocure. Smells awful, but works great. Follow the instructions properly and it'll work, but do be prepared to take the time to flush all of it from the system, otherwise it'll turn the coolant black. Dealt with a '99 Crown Victoria where the cooling system looked like stagnant pond water and smelled even worse. Car had been run with straight water for some time due to a prior intake and heater core leak. Everything had significant rust scale built up throughout the system, and every hose and outlet was just coated in brown.

      I did the water pump several months ago, and it was darn near spotless inside:


      My Cars:
      -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
      -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
      -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
      -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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        #18
        Despite common myths, a cooling system still needs a working fan at speed. (aka: its b.s. that you will run cool on the highway without a fan) If your fan clutch isn't working properly it can cause an overheat just for the fact it is not moving enough air. Get the car hot, open the hood, turn off the engine while keeping an eye on the fan. If it keeps spinning after the engine shuts off, replace it. It'll move a little bit (as in less than one revolution) but it should stop with the engine, especially if its up to temp and has gotten good and warm.

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          #19
          Yeah, sounds like you have to severely flush out the entire cooling system.
          What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
          What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

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            #20
            Yes if the fan spins for as long as a full second after the engine shuts off it needs to be replaced.
            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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              #21
              if its that nasty I might be tempted to yank the block drains first and get as much loose crap as possible out of the block before using any sort of cleaner. No point in making it work extra hard if you can dump a fair bit of the crap first.


              Looks like ThermoCure is an Evaporust product? I've used Evaporust on stuff before, does work well, but it does indeed turn rust black. I don't recall it smelling like much of anything so it must have some extra herbs and spices in it.

              thing with pressure washing a radiator is that it won't dissolve any crap thats stuck in the tubes and causing it to not flow or transfer heat effectively. I have cleaned heat exchangers with muriatic acid before, common thing on boats, but those are bronze. Not sure what that would do to aluminum. Vinegar might be an option though. Cleaning vinegar is a little more concentrated than food grade. If you pull the radiator and lay it flat, then fill it with vinegar it should dissolve out any lime or rust if you let it sit for a few hours.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #22
                Well I'm going to install some guages and go from there, yesterday it took about 60 miles for the engine light to come on. The radiator hoses were solid and no coolant was boiling out, but it got the th point where it had a shudder to it so I had to let it cool
                Last edited by 91merc; 08-21-2022, 09:54 AM.

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                  #23
                  I think I might also put a NEW fan clutch, cooler thermostat, and do a ThermoCure flush

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by 91merc View Post
                    I think I might also put a NEW fan clutch, cooler thermostat, and do a ThermoCure flush
                    Don’t run a colder than factory thermostat. Any of the EFI systems use coolant temperature for fuel enrichment tables, so if the car never fully warms up, it’s likely to waste fuel and possibly have drivability issues.


                    My Cars:
                    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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                      #25
                      Thermostat sets the minimum engine temperature. Max is determined by how effective it is at dumping heat, so basically radiator condition and air flow through it. Good to know that the thermostat is actually opening when it should though. Can check that on the stove with a pot of water and a thermometer. if it doesn't open within 5 degrees or so of what its marked, its junk.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Well I finally got my hands on some thermocure and that stuff WORKS, I was able to run 70 down the highway for 15 miles and not overheat, and when I got to work I could hold my hand on the radiator. Thanks for the suggestion Kodachrome Wolf!

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                          #27
                          https://photos.app.goo.gl/ZAifHFjs5Rd7faau7




                          What was in it before the flush

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                            #28
                            https://photos.app.goo.gl/XRUM6SWW9dq2N9ft9

                            After the flush

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                              #29
                              and this is why running straight water even in places that dont freeze is a terrible idea. Can run leaner than 50/50 and get a bit extra cooling capacity but the antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor and water pump seal lube. pure water is technically a better heat transfer fluid but that goes right in the toilet when the block rusts and plugs the cooling system up.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                                and this is why running straight water even in places that dont freeze is a terrible idea. Can run leaner than 50/50 and get a bit extra cooling capacity but the antifreeze is also a corrosion inhibitor and water pump seal lube. pure water is technically a better heat transfer fluid but that goes right in the toilet when the block rusts and plugs the cooling system up.

                                Gotta love previous owners

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