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No start, no crank, but click from fender relay - 1989 Town Car

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    No start, no crank, but click from fender relay - 1989 Town Car

    Hey guys I have a no start no crank on my 89' Towncar, I tried to start it in Neutral the other day and ever since it will not start.

    I have tested the battery, cleaned and checked the terminals and cables, pulled and bench tested the starter and starter mounted solenoid (I upgraded to the newer style starter from a 1991 Crown Victoria), Ohm'd out the starter motor main power wire and the solenoid trigger wire, and finally replaced the fender mounted relay. Still just get a loud "click" at the relay on the fender but the starter will not move. The "click" tells me the "s" terminal is working from the ignition switch (which was replaced in 2016).

    Any ideas?
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Issue with the small wire going to the starter?
    When I replaced the original starter on The Ice Car ('91 MGM) the new starter came with a new end for that small wire. The original end for the small wire was a spade connector that tended corrode and the wire itself would even corrode a few inches up. The replacement end is a ring terminal that is bolted on, better connection means less likely to corrode like stock, but not impossible.
    If the bench test of the starter was successful, I would look at the small wire going to the starter first. Although you mentioned checking terminals and cables already, so might not be that.
    Vic

    ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
    ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
    ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
    ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

    Comment


      #3
      Check to see if you have voltage on the down side of the fender solenoid when triggered. Could just be bad new part.

      Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
      rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
      Originally posted by gadget73
      ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
      Originally posted by dmccaig
      Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

      Comment


        #4
        Is the Starter Solenoid Relay OEM or an aftermarket. I've found some of the aftermarket ones to be quirky but I'm sure others have found that to not be the case.
        What I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
        What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 Tempo

        Comment


          #5
          bridge the fat terminals on the fender relay and see if it spins. if it does, the relay is junk. If nothing happens you probably don't have signal down to the starter, or the starter itself is a dud. If bridging the terminals gets a click from the starter but no rotation, you have power to the solenoid on the starter but either its bad and not passing current, the starter is junk, or the fat cable that carries power to the starter isn't doing that.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            bridge the fat terminals on the fender relay and see if it spins. if it does, the relay is junk. If nothing happens you probably don't have signal down to the starter, or the starter itself is a dud. If bridging the terminals gets a click from the starter but no rotation, you have power to the solenoid on the starter but either its bad and not passing current, the starter is junk, or the fat cable that carries power to the starter isn't doing that.
            I bridged the terminals on the fender relay with a screwdriver and got nothing... I only ohm'd out the big and small starter wires I need to do a voltage drop test and see if the solenoid and the starter itself are getting 12V next. When I bench tested the starter it was fine but that could be coincidence...
            Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 10-02-2022, 07:44 PM.
            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

            Comment


              #7
              Bad wire somewhere. Check that your engine block ground is good.

              Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
              rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
              Originally posted by gadget73
              ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
              Originally posted by dmccaig
              Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

              Comment


                #8
                if it does nothing, not even a clunk like its trying to crank but doesn't have the oomph I'll say is a bad connection on the small wire. If the solenoid down at the starter doesn't get pulled it won't do anything. If you have high resistance cables it will at least try, but it will either not actually spin or spin very slowly like a weak battery.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by sly View Post
                  Bad wire somewhere. Check that your engine block ground is good.
                  I did have to disconnect that recently when I did the timing cover re-seal, so I'll double check that too.
                  1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    if it does nothing, not even a clunk like its trying to crank but doesn't have the oomph I'll say is a bad connection on the small wire. If the solenoid down at the starter doesn't get pulled it won't do anything. If you have high resistance cables it will at least try, but it will either not actually spin or spin very slowly like a weak battery.
                    I used a 16-18ga wire for that application... I wonder if it's too small or got burnt up by the exhaust. Resistance on it is 0.2ohm but I'll report back after I recheck everything.
                    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      it doesn't pull all that much, 16 should be fine.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        OK so a few months later... I got a brand new starter in and it fired right up and drove fine for a few days. Now it is back to doing exactly what it was doing: go to start and I hear the relay clunk but nothing else. I installed a brand new Motorcraft fender solenoid and nothing. I only put the new solenoid on because it had longer studs for all the ring terminals I have on the hot side. Battery is from 2017 but it was charged and all the lights come on OK, I did boost it as well with my Jump N Carry lead acid battery jumper as well. Now I have a relay freaking out on the drivers side fender near the washer tank/coolant overflow. Isn't there another starter relay over there?
                        measured voltage drop from negative (-) battery terminal to hot side of fender solenoid and saw a 12 volt drop to around 0.4
                        im going to go ahead and get a new battery since this one is suspect, it's been sitting around for years and even though it takes a charge, the positive post is a tiny bit loose and its 5.5 years old.

                        EDIT: I fixed the no start by replacing the positive battery cable. After I lubed it up with some dielectric grease, I saw that even when the nut was completely tight it spun... so new cable went on and she starts fine now. KISS
                        Last edited by 89LincolnTWNcar; 03-10-2023, 08:19 PM.
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I've had so many terminals fail on me, that's the first thing I check.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I put a brand new solenoid on mine, it was bad right out of the box. First time I cranked it the starter stayed engaged. NOS Motorcraft, not even a new one. The one on the car randomly worked or didn't. Ended up stealing the used one off the wrecked Mark VII.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                              I put a brand new solenoid on mine, it was bad right out of the box. First time I cranked it the starter stayed engaged. NOS Motorcraft, not even a new one. The one on the car randomly worked or didn't. Ended up stealing the used one off the wrecked Mark VII.
                              Thats always fun... I've heard of retrofitting a diesel glow plug relay in place of the fender relay because they are supposed to be more heavy duty. I had a BWD HD for years and it was alright until the big old style starter started to go out and was welding the contacts. I haven't had that problem since going to the gear reduction starter, supposedly it pulls less current?
                              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                              Comment

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