First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

[86CVLTDGuy]

Hey Y’all! What up! Newbie Sean here!
Can’t say how AWSOME this forum seems!

I wanted to post here and try and get as much info as possible as I’m planning to swap out the motor in my new (to me) 1986 CV. I have searched endlessly as there seems to be loads of info on the web for swapping a Ford 302 in general. Mostly seems the reverse scenario of guys putting CV motors into trucks. Found a few stang threads too…

The car is really clean, at least for one north of the wall here in Canada. Has original 113500 kms. However the engine has developed some bearing noise, and I assume its only a matter of time. I don't know much of the history, but I imagine it ended up in the hands of someone who failed to maintain it. I scored a lower mileage 1994 F150 302 drop in motor from a reputable wrecker, with a 90 day warranty. My plan is to strip what's needed off the CV motor and put it all onto the truck motor. I’ve never done this before - reason for joining…

The upper and lower intake I believe is required in order to clear the hood, but I am unsure if all the accessories are required, or the flywheel.

Before the motor goes in, I had also planned to do the engine mounts, rear main, oil pump, and pan seal. Mainly wondering what else I should consider?

Is there by chance any aftermarket upper plenum that would bolt to the lower truck intake manifold? Currently my only upgrade is some BBK equal length headers.

I am really new to engine swaps, so id really appreciate any and all input. Plan to label everything that comes off. Hoping it’s straightforward enough. Will plan to leave the AOD attached….

Some time ago I replaced a 4l60e on my impalla SS, so feel like I'm up for a challenge to get this box going, as I do plan to daily as much as possible, weather permitting…

A picture says 1000 words..
(not sure new members can ad pics)
so here goes:






I think shes worth saving, so I'm all ears!
Many Many Thanks in Advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Welcome!

Regarding your engine swap, arguably the easiest thing to do in your case if you're not hopping up the replacement engine is to re-use your existing upper/lower intake setup, oil pan, valve covers, timing cover, and front accessories. That way everything goes back in and works properly. If you have access or come across an SEFI HO 302 equipped Mustang or Mark VII, it would be worth yanking the throttle body and upper intake since that'll work fine on the stock lower intake. You just have to get your factory EGR spacer bored out and adapt the Panther throttle bracket to the HO throttle body. You can do a lot, or a little to these engines when working with them, it just depends on your goals.

The re-sealing you mention should definitely be carried out while the engine is out for ease of access to everything. Don't forget the valve cover gaskets, intake gaskets, and timing cover gaskets. Might be worth slapping a new water pump on while it's out as well.

You might also find it easier to pull the engine with the hood removed. I think a few folks have done it with the hood on, but on the car I helped with, we found it easier to do the job with the hood removed.

If you've got any questions though, you're in the right place. Lots of great information and how-to knowledge here.

[86CVLTDGuy]

Thank you for the reply!

Will plan to keep it easy and as low cost as possible… Sky is the limit I’d imagine for upgrades, if only money grew on trees! Lol.

To clarify my “keep AOD attached” meaning left in place, pulling just the motor.

Does the hood go 90 degree straight up?
I thought I read somewhere it does.
At least I hope.

The HO upper plenum is different than the stock one the CV motor? Just bigger, and mounts to the stock lower? Will do some more research, probably opt for this route…. Thank You!

There is a fair bit of used Craigslist parts in my area, almost purchased a gt40 upper and lower, but wasn’t sure it would work…

The only 98 explorer at my pick in pull is pretty much fully intact minus the heads and intake…
Of course…

Also, I think my donor motor had an e40d behind it, does that make a difference? swap the flex plate I’d guess…

Appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[86CVLTDGuy]

First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

Watch out! Rapid fire with the replies here… [emoji23]

Read something about a TV line (?) for the transmission… had me worried?

Also will plan to leave the distributor from the truck in place… thought I read the old CV one could get chewed up, something about different metals..?

Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Thank you for the reply!

Will plan to keep it easy and as low cost as possible… Sky is the limit I’d imagine for upgrades, if only money grew on trees! Lol.

To clarify my “keep AOD attached” meaning left in place, pulling just the motor.

Does the hood go 90 degree straight up?
I thought I read somewhere it does.
At least I hope.

The HO upper plenum is different than the stock one the CV motor? Just bigger, and mounts to the stock lower? Will do some more research, probably opt for this route…. Thank You!

There is a fair bit of used Craigslist parts in my area, almost purchased a gt40 upper and lower, but wasn’t sure it would work…

The only 98 explorer at my pick in pull is pretty much fully intact minus the heads and intake…
Of course…

Also, I think my donor motor had an e40d behind it, does that make a difference? swap the flex plate I’d guess…

Appreciate it!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can leave the AOD "floating", just support it with something underneath after you separate it from the engine. The fun part with AODs and the related family members is the torque converter uses studs that pass through into the flexplate, and then a nut is screwed on. Makes the lining up part fun when getting the engine into the bay.

Never seen a hood on one of these go 90 degrees unless someone has peeled it backwards. In theory it could be done on a '92+ car due to a different hinge design if one popped off the lift supports, but then you'd still need something to hold it up. Totally different sidebar.

HO upper has somewhat larger runners compared to the standard design, so it breathes a bit better. GT40 stuff can be used, but if you want/need to keep the EGR system functional, you need one from a 1996 or early 1997 Explorer/Mountaineer. The other hard part is you need a F-150 Lightning EGR spacer as it's the only spacer that'll work with a Panther bracket setup and accept the Explorer throttle body. Our stock EGR spacers cannot be bored large enough to work in stock form. Arguably with the E7 cylinder heads the trucks got, and the GT40 intake, you may find the speed density system may not play as nicely with everything. I personally have run a HO upper, HO TB, with E7 heads and when it was cold, the engine's idle would hunt/lope until it warmed up. Ever since going full HO, it hasn't done that.

Original transmission doesn't really matter, as it would have carried the small block Ford bell housing pattern, just like your existing AOD.

Watch out! Rapid fire with the replies here… [emoji23]

Read something about a TV line (?) for the transmission… had me worried?

Also will plan to leave the distributor from the truck in place… thought I read the old CV one could get chewed up, something about different metals..?

Thanks again!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Your '86 has a unique, one year only TV cable that doesn't suffer from the bushing failure like the '87-'91 cars do. Just use care when you remove it from the throttle body since getting a replacement might be a touch difficult.

The distributor gear material issue crops up for those dealing with flat tappet versus roller cam equipped cars. IIRC, flat tappet = cast iron gear, roller = steel gear. The engine in your LTD is a roller, so it has a steel gear distributor. I believe the trucks went roller in 1992, so your replacement engine should play nice with the LTD's distributor.

[Tiggie]

I want to hear your bearing noise, and when it does it. Also how's the oil pressure look? These engines are famous for piston slap when cold, and that can sound pretty bad, but won't cause any serious issues.

My only input to add from what's been said above is the truck cam is slightly different from the lopo cam in specs. With that cam and the slightly better heads, and with your headers, I begin to wonder if original ECM and 14lb injectors will play nice.

[86CVLTDGuy]

Much appreciate all the info!

With my stethoscope the knock is far more apparent on the lower end / oil pan compared to the top. It starts up with a rattle, but quickly dissipates. Not until it’s warmer that the red engine light illuminates at idle in gear. Under load the knock is less obvious, and red engine light comes off, but when coasting in the later gears the knock always seems to be there.

Haven’t tested the oil pressure yet, but I suspect it weak, and the culprit to the engines demise. At a stop when in gear it hesitates the most and red engine light comes on, but goes off soon as adding gas. I’ve added thicker oil, additives, makes no difference.

I did find a used HO upper and lower intake as well throttle body. Just not sure the difference now on the HO lower intake (compared to the one currently on the CV motor) if it’s worth swapping, or going with just the HO upper as mentioned above.

Also now wondering what would be the limit to the mods I should plan for in order to make it play nice? This is where I lack the expertise.

The headers upgrade was really only in part to save me the hassle from removing both sets. As is mainly my goal for the intake as well….

Again. Many Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[DerekTheGreat]

Nice car, Sean! I absolutely love the color, but not a fan of the '90's low rider wheels. Sweet slick top nonetheless.

[GM_Guy]

Nice looking car, and unlike Derek, I'm digging the wire wheels. Wouldn't want them myself because I'd hate having to clean them, but like the look.

[Arquemann]

Nice ride, slicktops are always cool!
The 302 in my '85 Grand Marq also has quite a bit of bottom end noise on idle, but the engine light hasn't come on yet.
When my engine kicks the bucket, I'll probably have to go the rebuild route since 302s aren't that cheap or common in this part of the world.
While I can't really give advice on much, I'll gladly follow this thread and the progress.

Nice looking car, and unlike Derek, I'm digging the wire wheels. Wouldn't want them myself because I'd hate having to clean them, but like the look.

I think those wheels look nice on there, all it needs is a bit of an altitude adjustment and it'll be mint.

[sly]

Sounds like the engine is a candidate for some 20w50. If it's actually got 10w30 in it and 10w40 doesn't help any that is. If it's got 5w20, it'll knock when warmed up. That oil is just too thin. But yeah, if it's got the right stuff in it, I'd wager it's 4/8 lopo knocking and the bottom end bearings are egged out back there. I know several cars that have run ages with that issue and just using thicker oil though. YMMV.

Nice car though. Shows very well.

[86CVLTDGuy]

First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

Thanks all!

10/40 and some Lucas is in it currently. I’m a little reluctant to use some 20/50 as worry it could become froze solid with the coming winter temps. Although it really won’t be driven much when its that ugly out. Not much too loose perhaps, I’ll try it out for the sake of curiosity.

I have found a 94-95 stang HO upper, lower intake and TB all for $100. Seems a good deal, but have no clue if it will work?

It has this wierd elbow coming off the plenum:


Appreciate any feedback!
I also never knew they where referred to “slicktop”…[emoji23] guessing cause the roofline is seamless compared to others… I like it!

Thanks again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Arquemann]

I also never knew they where referred to “slicktop”…[emoji23] guessing cause the roofline is seamless compared to others… I like it!

Slicktop means no vinyl, atleast on this forum.
Box Vics (and wagons) were the only box panthers that were available without a vinyl roof. Most boxes come with the half vinyl which is the epitome of grandpa-spec.

[DerekTheGreat]

Stang upper won't work due to the weird geometry. Least I've never heard of anyone using one in a box.

I used 20w-50 Valvoline VR1 or whatever in my '69 Plymouth with it's 318. Oil light used to come on when hot at idle, but no valvetrain noise came with that. I put that in there when I changed the oil and never saw the light again at hot idle. It was pretty thick when cold, but the engine lived. Worth a shot if trying to stall on the engine swap dealio, which I'd be doing because I'm lazy. I'm no longer a fan of engine oil additives, especially any with "Lucas" on the label.

[VicCrownVic]

I run 20w50 in The Scab no problem. Ran straight 50 weight and motor honey in the '87 CV. The Scab isn't bad, just some mild noise with 10w40. The CV apparently was pretty bad (dad owned it and this was 20 years ago) but I drove it daily and never noticed any noise with the 50 weight and motor honey. Dad ended up selling that car for a couple hundred a few years later to someone who really needed a car. Not sure how long they drove it.

Put thread sealer on the flex plate bolts, otherwise they will leak oil and make you think you have a rear main leak. After replacing the engine in The Ice Car I ended up pulling my trans to address the rear main only to find it was those bolts.