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First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

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    #16
    20/50 it is!
    For now at least.

    Swap won’t be underway until the replacement engine is ready, and believe me… I can procrastinate with the best of em!
    So I hope an even thicker oil makes the slightest difference! [emoji23] [emoji1696]

    The old lady that sold it to me said it been knocking since she can remember. [emoji2369]

    Seems the further / longer I drive the worse it gets, felt like it almost wanted to stall once before, so it’s only been tasked with short trips so far.


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      #17
      Stay away from the 94/95 mustang intake. You would want 87-93...86 is a gray area where stuff was actually somewhat smaller.

      To be quite honest I would just swap on the stuff you need from your existing motor.

      I did a quick google and the firing order from your replacement motor is not correct for your computer.

      This is a long rabbit hole and slippery slope situation here.

      You need the cam from your stock motor....but does one really want to use that if the motor is bad?

      If you retain the cam from the new to you motor you need to swap computers and do some wiring by the computer as well.

      this all could go a thousand directions.

      Simplest option is pull motor and pull cam and upper and lower intake and anything else that looks different and swap it onto your new to you motor.

      When doing a big job like this, especially one you have not done before on this platform, you want to eliminate as many variables for it running poorly as you can...keep it stock. Once you get everything in and working you can then proceed to upgrade things.

      You can add an HO upper intake, bored out stock EGR spacer and modded mustang throttle body after the vehicle is running easily. The upper is the ONLY thing different. The LOWERS are all the same (cannot comment on the truck side of things). Of course this is different when you get into the gt40 style intakes...but again baby steps here.

      Your headers you plan to put on will require a custom exhaust already. They will not bolt up the factory h pipe. No aftermarket header will.

      You really have to decide how long you want this to take and how much frustration you want to deal with.

      BTW welcome to the forum. Looks like a nice vehicle.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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        #18
        A rabbit hole indeed. For some reason I thought the firing order was the same for the trucks and CV 302 as opposed to the stang or HO motors.

        I’d like to try and figure the best approach before putting the engine in the car, vs pulling it back out again (in which case I would cry) after realizing it doesn’t perform all that well. This really my goal with trying to get the most accurate info here on the forum.

        I think for some reason the wiring harness aspect intimidates me the most. If I can avoid having to rewire everything I would prefer that.

        I did anticipate the headers will end up making the rest of the exhaust bit of a custom job. Will hopefully tact into what’s existing, for now at least.

        My plan / limit for mods so far aside from the headers is to ad the HO upper and TB.

        Is there a cam I could consider to use that’s in between the one in the CV and the one in truck, so that it would help blend the couple mods? Similar to to rewiring, my preference would be not to have to change the cam. I’m okay if it doesn’t run exactly as the original motor did. Just as long as it is reliable, at least more than it currently is.

        Between the headers, upper intake and TB, is there one that I should consider going without in order to leave the rest well enough alone?

        Thanks again.


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          #19
          As the general rule of thumb goes with stock engine swap/HO conversions: There is no change to the engine wiring.

          Literally when you take your old engine out, you will find that when you disconnect/unplug everything, the entire harness can be swung clear of the engine bay on the driver’s side. You won’t need to use any of the wiring from the truck engine. Once you have your replacement engine in, you just swing the harness back on top of everything and plug everything back in where it was.


          My Cars:
          -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
          -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
          -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
          -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

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            #20
            Just a side note, the 94 may be the HO firing order instead of the lopo/truck firing order.

            Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
            rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
            Originally posted by gadget73
            ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
            Originally posted by dmccaig
            Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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              #21
              Originally posted by sly View Post
              Just a side note, the 94 may be the HO firing order instead of the lopo/truck firing order.
              Is it possible to confirm this?
              Maybe based on an engine code, or stamp on the block, distributor?


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                #22
                Originally posted by 86CVLTDGuy View Post
                Is it possible to confirm this?
                Maybe based on an engine code, or stamp on the block, distributor?


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                Assuming the distributor and wires are still on the truck engine, you could locate cylinder 1 on the cap, then go around the circle and follow the wires to identify the firing order.

                Nice car, and neat project. I think you'll find this community really helpful.

                Current driver: wagon
                Panthers: 83 GM 2dr | 84 TC | 85 CS
                | 88 TC | 91 GM
                Not Panthers: 85 Ranger | Ranger trailer | 91 Acclaim | 05 Focus
                Gone: 97 CV | 83 TC | 04 Focus | 86 GM
                | Junkyards

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by kishy View Post
                  Assuming the distributor and wires are still on the truck engine, you could locate cylinder 1 on the cap, then go around the circle and follow the wires to identify the firing order.

                  Nice car, and neat project. I think you'll find this community really helpful.
                  Thanks You!


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                    #24
                    The only wiring that would need to be addressed if swapping to HO computer (another expense) to retain the likely HO firing order camshaft in your new motor would be AT the physical computer plug itself under the dash. It is not much so nothing to be worried about.

                    What color are the injectors on your new to you motor? Orange tops?
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                      #25
                      Whoops...got ahead of myself there....The MINOR wiring changes would be ONLY if you went HO with mass air instead of speed density. My apologies.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
                        The only wiring that would need to be addressed if swapping to HO computer (another expense) to retain the likely HO firing order camshaft in your new motor would be AT the physical computer plug itself under the dash. It is not much so nothing to be worried about.

                        What color are the injectors on your new to you motor? Orange tops?
                        Yes Orange tops in the new motor.
                        I’m also really not as informed (yet at least) all that well with speed density vs mass air… or converting either.


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                          #27
                          Originally posted by sly View Post
                          Just a side note, the 94 may be the HO firing order instead of the lopo/truck firing order.
                          Didn’t open up the distributor, but the wires are labeled with numbers and my cap looks this / is in this order:



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                            #28
                            Plans still remain to ad upgraded HO TB and upper Plenum, unless it won’t work….

                            Now my part hoarding tendencies coming full circle:

                            Can get a 70mm pro products TB with the EGR spacer for $100. Seems good deal… but will it (easily) work….?


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                              #29
                              Originally posted by 86CVLTDGuy View Post
                              Didn’t open up the distributor, but the wires are labeled with numbers and my cap looks this / is in this order:



                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              That's the HO firing order. Standard firing order ends with 7-8.

                              Since your original engine is a roller cam, and the donor engine is a roller, you could just swap the camshafts and original injectors between the two and carry on.

                              Originally posted by 86CVLTDGuy View Post
                              Plans still remain to ad upgraded HO TB and upper Plenum, unless it won’t work….

                              Now my part hoarding tendencies coming full circle:

                              Can get a 70mm pro products TB with the EGR spacer for $100. Seems good deal… but will it (easily) work….?


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                              If that spacer and 70mm TB are for a Mustang, it won't work. The spacer won't have the correct setup for your throttle cable/TV cable bracketry. Best thing to do if you're using the HO upper plenum and throttle body is to have your factory EGR spacer bored out. If he's still active/responding to PMs, you could contact JeffBoudah. He put my EGR spacer through a CNC lathe and got it bored out nicely. Cost was reasonable, but I don't recall it offhand.



                              We did note there was pitting in my spacer, but nothing that would affect driveability.

                              The HO Mustang/Mark VII TB will work, you will just need to swap the throttle linkage at the bottom. I think there's a "how-to" in the 302 section here, but if you have a hard time finding it, I can probably dig it up. Pretty much you wind up grinding off the little tang that's holding the arm to the shaft and swapping it to the recipient TB, and using something to hold the whole shebang together, whether it be tapping and inserting a bolt, welding, or epoxying the assembly.


                              My Cars:
                              -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                              -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                              -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                              -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Kodachrome Wolf View Post
                                That's the HO firing order. Standard firing order ends with 7-8.

                                Since your original engine is a roller cam, and the donor engine is a roller, you could just swap the camshafts and original injectors between the two and carry on.

                                To avoid the cam removal, can I not move some wires around to appease the ecm?

                                Seems like a fair bit of extra work removing the roller bolts / buckets / timing etc…

                                TB retro fit seems pretty straightforward. Do you happen to know the inside diameter of the newly bored EGR? Does it just match the 65mm TB? Think I might be able to find someone to do it locally.

                                [emoji120][emoji120][emoji120]


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