1997 131k miles.......................................

[Kevs97GM]

Time for a tune up.

Not runnin' too bad, but I don't know the history of the car.

Plugs, plug wires, coils, spark plugs and injectors.

I've ordered a set of remanufactured flow matched Bosch injectors.

MSD coils are cost prohibitive.

We've talked about plugs. Any input on the other parts?

[Tiggie]

Fuel filter, PCV, air filter.

If it has unknown history, it's a decent idea to flush the coolant, change the trans fluid and filter, as well as the rear differential fluid.

[sly]

No need to replace working coils. If you really want, you can have a spare on hand. I have no issues using store brands. They're almost always Airtex/Wells or Standard Motor Parts anyhow. Decent enough for stock parts. I know many say Motorcraft or nothing, but if it works, run it.

As for wires, most any 8 or 9 mm silicone wires are fine for stock engines and offer good insulation endurance. You really don't want to use anything thinner than 8mm. I think that's the stock size anyhow.

I also never replace injectors unless there's an issue. I'll pour a bottle of fuel system cleaner in a fill up every 5-10 years if needed.
Never had an injector fail on something that was driven regularly. The o-rings however. Nice to have a set on hand in case. But disturb the fuel rail and you better just replace all the o-rings.

[FordMan77]

Ok, here's my opinion since it's had an unknown history.

Change the plugs and wires. Leave the factory coils on it. Leave the injectors too. If they aren't having an issue now why mess with it? MSD stands for "my spark disappeared". OEM coils are far better. If you really want the "bling" factor, paint em red or whatever.

Everything Tiggie mentioned too. Just do NOT flush the trans. Drop/clean the pan, change the filter and refill with the correct fluid. Pan gasket should be reusable if it's not been overtorqued. When you pull the filter make sure the rubber seal comes out of the bore with it so you don't double it up when installing the new one. IIRC that year still has a drain plug on the torque converter. See this thread --> https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/...Number=3217281

If you're mechanically inclined enough I'd J-mod it while it's open but that requires removing the valve body and drilling the separator plate so not sure. Even a light J-mod would do it some good.

I would change the brake fluid if it's not nice and clear. Likely it's brown by now. If you can't get the bleeders loose on the brakes then I'd just pull the fluid out of the master a few times until it's clear. Just don't completely empty it.

Would change the power steering fluid (uses mercon IIRC).

Get the car in the air and look for any zerk/grease fittings on the suspension and the U-joints on the driveshaft. Grease as needed.

[Kevs97GM]

Thanks all.
Nice to get opinions even if they're wrong.

[friskyfrankie]

Which opinions do you believe are incorrect?

[sly]

MSD = May Suddenly Die. Anything MSD made since about 2006 (maybe earlier) has been made of lesser quality and the PPM failures are much higher than they used to be. They have been doing better in the past couple of years, but it's still not even close to the 90s stuff. Kinda why NASCAR stuff runs 2 complete systems. Parts just don't last.

[Kevs97GM]

The comments about MSD stuff.
I don't know anyone in the muscle car/ racing scene that's had problems with MSD.
I run their coils on everything I own and have never had a problem, always improved
starts, smooth the engine and in some cases, increased fuel mileage slightly.
Still have a Blaster coil on my '90 D250.
It's OK. That's why there is more than one flavor ice cream.

[sly]

It's like people have different experiences with the stuff. Yeah... I've had no issues with old 6AL from the 90s, but know several people and seen Youtubers have MSD boxes die on them.

As with everything, YMMV.

[Kevs97GM]

Wix a good choice for filters on these cars?

[sly]

Yes. Wix is good.

[Kevs97GM]

Cool.

Synthetic or standard rear axle oil?

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I’ve used synthetic 75W-140 in my stuff over the years. Later CVPIs called for it, and nothing changed in the 8.8, and I’ve had no issues.

[sly]

I'll say +1 on synthetic. My 93 now uses it with the 3.55L and the original axles and wheel bearings are still in it. The 3.55L is a swap and has an 8-clutch carbon pack with possibly an F150 spring. It's TIGHT. I can't have much of any throttle when turning or it'll chirp tires. Fun in the dry but sketchy in the wet if you forget about it. Nice on ice though when you remember to neutral out over the overpasses since it'll actually let you get going again when you stop at lights. Not nice in the ice when trying to turn though. Fun though. I need to just drive my Expedition in crap weather.