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Couple 3G Conversion Questions
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Thread: Couple 3G Conversion Questions

  1. #1
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Default Couple 3G Conversion Questions

    I'm late to the 3G Game; I don't want my 90 to burn up with the classic 2G...

    I'm reading the various threads on here. One direction calls for reusing the stock charge wires, together on a single ring terminal. Others call for a new charge wire with fuse.

    I'd like to be minimally invasive to the factory wiring and also maximum fire safety. Best to run a new charge cable?
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
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  2. #2
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    If you replace with a 95A alternator, the stock wires on a single ring terminal should be enough. You still run the risk of blowing the fuse links at the starter solenoid stud. I didn't have any issues initially. But I later upgraded the charge cable as well before the battery had any issues that would cause a problem like that. Replacing the charge cable definitely gets max safety factor and you can use the 130A alternator with no issues. Check the sticky for purchase options (links to kits and parts were recently updated) and what you'll need to grind for clearance to get the belt on without removing both bolts. If you don't mind removing both bolts, you don't have to do any grinding to the lower bracket.

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...upgrade-README

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  3. #3
    GMN Regular DerekTheGreat's Avatar
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    I put the two charge wires on a ring terminal and also ran a separate charge wire harvested from a mid 90's Continental. 40k+ miles and some six years later, no fires.
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  4. #4
    Wagon Addicted Tiggie's Avatar
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    Default Couple 3G Conversion Questions

    I think I'll go for the new wire then. Got a 130 amp unit. I would have been fine with a 95 amp, but there were none readily available at the junkyard.

    Being a 90, the charge wire connector at the fender well has four wires in it instead of three, the extra being the green/red for the warning light.

    Here's the plan (suggest edits as needed)
    - keep charge harness plugged in at fender well to maintain the green/red battery light and yellow/white for stator wire
    - unplug factory charge connector on the 2G.
    - continue use of unmodified voltage regulator plug/harness.
    - cut stator wire near 2G charge plug, add 3G pigtail for stator wire.
    - run 4ga charge wire with fuse (175 amps seems like a lot?) to battery side of starter relay.

    I'll clean up the wiring and remove to 2G charge plug once I find a 90/91 harness I can cut up and make visually appealing.

    Here's the odd duck connector. I incidentally, I have an extra 86?/89 harness with the three wires instead but that won't do me much good on this car.



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    Last edited by Tiggie; 11-08-2022 at 11:11 AM.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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  5. #5
    Road Warrior Kodachrome Wolf's Avatar
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    Your plan sounds solid to me. You can just tie your old charge harness somewhere out of the way and route the new one as you see fit.

    175 amp fuse is just good protection in case something decides to short out real bad.

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  6. #6
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good plan to me.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

  7. #7
    Donating Member massacre's Avatar
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    Sounds good. 175a might be a little too high, maybe not. Fuses should be sized to protect the wiring, you want the fuse to pop before the wire burns up. There are some charts online that can give you a ballpark on how big of a fuse to use on 4 gauge wiring, depending on the length.
    If 130a is the maximum the alt will put out, 150a might be a little better (safer) than a 175a. Or if it's a short run, 175 might be fine.
    ..

  8. #8
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    175 is what Ford put on those alternators in the Taurus.

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  9. #9
    Donating Member massacre's Avatar
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    Did the Taurus use 4 gauge?
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  10. #10
    I'm an air-conditioned gypsy gadget73's Avatar
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    Not sure if it was 4 or 6. I've pulled those cables before, its actually long enough to do the job on a Panther so long as you don't mind it being yellow. Its been a while though.

    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks, Holley SystemMax1 lower intake, SilverFox AOD valve body,

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Quote Originally Posted by phayzer5 View Post
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

  11. #11
    Donating Member massacre's Avatar
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  12. #12
    Beater gonna beat sly's Avatar
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    Yes, 175A is standard issue for 130A alts.

    Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
    rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
    Quote Originally Posted by gadget73
    ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
    Quote Originally Posted by dmccaig
    Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

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