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Thread: The Panther T5 Swap...

  1. #61
    P72 Interceptor
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    I have often wondered why no one is using a hydraulic setup on their manual conversions. You mount the slave cylinder; make sure the clutch pedal can actuate it and youíre done. (basically) No cutting the dash, no worrying about how stiff the clutch is. And I have often wondered why Ford did use them on the more mustangs. In the late 90's at least they used a hydraulic setup on V-6's, so? Can anyone provide any insight as to why?

    I have wanted to do manual swap for awhile now, but was afraid that I would have to run something stronger than a T-5, due to the inherent extra torque the 351W makes. But I guess you would be limited to actually getting that torque applied; the tires would have to hold the torque before it would hurt the transmission. Sounds like it maybe a do able thing, as long as I don't drop the clutch at 4500rpm on drag slicks.
    Internal combustion of all types is a mechanical symphony, but it is the primordial roar of a V-8 that stirs a man's savage soul.

  2. #62
    Usual Suspect Freshmeat's Avatar
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    Lazerbeans, there are a few guys running T5s behind 351Ws with minimal problems. The 8.8 has blown before the transmission in most Panther T5 swap failures I've seen, including my own.
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

  3. #63
    I post a lot... GoodSamaritan's Avatar
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    Well, the motor in the Hillbilly Suv is bone stock, but i'm running 3.08's and huge tires on the back, so there's very little spinning going on. I've flogged mine pretty good with no problems. I'm using a t5 from one of the later turbo stangs, with a king cobra drag clutch and pressure plate. (I already had them on hand)

    The shifter feels a bit sloppy, but it's been that way since I put it in.
    Anyway, it works like a charm.
    Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
    AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



    Axle codes
    Open/Lock/Ratio #
    -----------------------
    G / H / 2.26
    B / C / 2.47
    8 / M / 2.73
    7 / - / 3.07
    Y / Z / 3.08
    4 / D / 3.42
    F / R / 3.45
    5 / E / 3.27
    6 / W / 3.73
    2 / K / 3.55
    A / - / 3.63
    J / - / 3.85

  4. #64
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    I usually drive around with 275/40/17 tires, which is a lot of grip. And when I was driving on the track, I had 245/50/16 Hoosier race slicks.

    The reason I didn't run a hydro clutch setup is because of space. If I had pushed the clutch pedal father towards the left of the car it would have bean able to clear, but then I'd have to relocated my CC module, and maybe the ECU. I too prefer the feel of a hydro clutch, but it just doesn't fit around the brake booster very well.
    Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 01-04-2010 at 10:24 AM.

  5. #65
    Usual Suspect Freshmeat's Avatar
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    Johnny, I was at the junk yard getting Explorer intakes the other day and ran across another Panther guy who kept talking about "somebody with an older tan one with a manual transmission." Apparently you have quite a following. Haha
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

  6. #66
    P72 Interceptor
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    That makes sense; packaging.
    Blaze: Your 17's they are 17x9 0 offset right. I am thinking of getting 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 in the back, and wanted to reasonly be sure they will fit with no real probelms. I am thinking 245/45/17 in front, and 275/40/17 in the back. Sounds workable?
    Last edited by Lazerbeans; 01-04-2010 at 02:30 PM.
    Internal combustion of all types is a mechanical symphony, but it is the primordial roar of a V-8 that stirs a man's savage soul.

  7. #67
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lazerbeans View Post
    That makes sense; packaging.
    Blaze: Your 17's they are 17x9 0 offset right. I am thinking of getting 17x8 up front and 17x9.5 in the back, and wanted to reasonly be sure they will fit with no real probelms. I am thinking 245/45/17 in front, and 275/40/17 in the back. Sounds workable?
    Yep and yep! Sounds like a good setup, keep the 0mm offset for both of them and you should be good. MB Wheels has a set of 5 spoke wheels in 17X8 and 17X9.5, the 8's are available in 0 offset, and the 9.5's are available in +6mm offset. The +6 will look perfect with the staggered setup you plan to run.

  8. #68
    P72 Interceptor
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    Thatís funny, you talking about the Old Schools I bet, thatís why the back happen to be 9.5, because they do not have a 9". I saw them on Discount Tire and about flipped out. I have been browsing wheels for about a year off and on, and these are the only ones in my price range, that made me stop and take a second look. I am totally stoked about getting these, and just was double checking I had all of my "I's" dotted and "T's" crossed so to speak. I figured youíre the one to ask, since you run 17x9-275/40/17 all four corners.
    They appear to be Coys C-55, and that maybe were Discount Tire gets them from, because the Old School does not appear on MB's website.
    Hey thanks for the help, I truly appreciate it, because after all you donít have to take the time to give me the info, or answer.
    Internal combustion of all types is a mechanical symphony, but it is the primordial roar of a V-8 that stirs a man's savage soul.

  9. #69
    Has-been that never was. Blaze86Vic's Avatar
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    They certainly are the best bang for the buck, and one of the very few affordable wide wheels that don't require massive spacers, and look pretty good too. Make sure to tell them that the center hub diameter is 70.5mm on our cars so you get a set of hub rings with them. And be sure to post pics.

    [/off topic]

  10. #70
    P72 Interceptor
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    I will do that on both accounts, thanks.
    Internal combustion of all types is a mechanical symphony, but it is the primordial roar of a V-8 that stirs a man's savage soul.

  11. #71
    Donkeylips 89LincolnTWNcar's Avatar
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    Very cool, I too am thinking of doing this swap in my Town Car, after fiddling with AOD's for years with no luck or improvement in performance.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block bored to .030 over with SpeedPro pistons & rods w/ARP hardware, FRPP oil pump, rebuilt GT-40 3bar heads w/Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, true 93' Cobra lower intake w/factory IAT port, Exploder upper intake and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N RAM intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lock/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, 7-blade rad fan. Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph
    Other rides: 2000 Toyota Solara, 1984 Camaro 2.8, 1986 Corolla AE86, 1989 Integra, 1996 Integra GSR

  12. #72
    Ford Fanatic Mercracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 89LincolnTWNcar View Post
    Very cool, I too am thinking of doing this swap in my Town Car, after fiddling with AOD's for years with no luck or improvement in performance.
    What are you running for a cam? Your ETs are not the fault of your transmission although you could use more converter. More gear would wake your car up also. If a 2000 HPP Panther bone stock can turn 15.9s, your AOD is capable of doing the job and you running 14s. Even a stock 2000 has more stall than you do.

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