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{brakes} line lock install

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    {brakes} line lock install

    but i m looking to install line lock in my cs how do i do it and where are the brake lines to do it is there multiple or one and i also want to install a hand brake in my car can i r route the foot brake to be a hand brake
    sigpic
    1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

    #2
    Depends on how you want it to work. Do you want to press the brake then press the line lock and have it hold the front brakes while your foot is off the brake? Or do you want to press the line lock first and be able to press the brakes multiple times while it blocks off the rear brakes?

    In situation one :
    Pros; no bake lights while in use (more cool I guess), frees both feet for use
    Cons; to let off and re-aply the brakes causes the rear brakes to apply, if it shorts out and closes while driving you just lost over 70% of your braking force.

    In situation two:
    Pros; can re-aply front brakes independant of the rear, if it shorts out you only lose a small percentage of your braking force.
    Cons; requires the use of both feet to do a burnout, and brake lights will be on while the brakes are applied (less cool I guess)


    I have it mounted in situation two style. I love it, one really nice thing I can do is easily do a rolling burnout, or do donuts and then return to a stationary burnout without applying the rear brakes. It is also very easy to mount and install. If you are good with making the double flares you will not even need new brake line. You can use the existing line without having to relocate it or even bend it. I replaced one piece on mine, but only because as I pulled it off it started to leak through a rust spot on it. Directly under the driver side behind the wheel in the corner of the frame is the perfect mounting spot.

    Here are some pics of where I have it installed.


    Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 04-06-2006, 07:30 PM.

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      #3
      BTW, if you would like I think this should be renamed something like Line Lock isntall info. And it should be stickied and archived eventualy.

      Comment


        #4
        I'm gonna go with option 2 when I do mine, just seems cooler to me lol
        Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
        Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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          #5
          blaze vic what size brake line did you use 3/8
          sigpic
          1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Blaze86Vic
            Depends on how you want it to work. Do you want to press the brake then press the line lock and have it hold the front brakes while your foot is off the brake? Or do you want to press the line lock first and be able to press the brakes multiple times while it blocks off the rear brakes?

            In situation one :
            Pros; no bake lights while in use (more cool I guess), frees both feet for use
            Cons; to let off and re-aply the brakes causes the rear brakes to apply, if it shorts out and closes while driving you just lost over 70% of your braking force.

            In situation two:
            Pros; can re-aply front brakes independant of the rear, if it shorts out you only lose a small percentage of your braking force.
            Cons; requires the use of both feet to do a burnout, and brake lights will be on while the brakes are applied (less cool I guess)


            I have it mounted in situation two style. I love it, one really nice thing I can do is easily do a rolling burnout, or do donuts and then return to a stationary burnout without applying the rear brakes. It is also very easy to mount and install. If you are good with making the double flares you will not even need new brake line. You can use the existing line without having to relocate it or even bend it. I replaced one piece on mine, but only because as I pulled it off it started to leak through a rust spot on it. Directly under the driver side behind the wheel in the corner of the frame is the perfect mounting spot.

            Here are some pics of where I have it installed.


            anyone else see the bondo on his floorpan in this pic??....install info, i need details, like exact instal instructions
            jay--1983 towncar, 302v8 cfi, dual straight pipes w/resonators ,edelbrock motor goodies, custom interior, full custom stereo system, full rebuilt trunk audio setup, custom paint...more to come......

            Comment


              #7
              I think the stock size to the back is 5/16 or 1/4. Not sure offhand.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #8
                I don't see bondo. Not much for the install really. Whack the line in half, flare it like you're putting in a connector, and thread it into the line lock instead. Might need to trim the line slightly to make it fit all purdy like. Wiring goes to a switched 12v source.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  I don't see any bondo either
                  Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                  Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Deffinitly no bondo, where do you think you see bondo? As was said, very simple to install. Cut, install thread fittings, then flare, then bolt it up. I drilled a small hole in one of the floor drain plugs and fed the wires through there. Made it a small hole so that it still seals.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 83tc
                      install info, i need details, like exact instal instructions
                      If you buy a quality kit like the Hurst kit, it comes with exact instructions for a conventional front brake installation. If you are installing it in-line to the rear like Blaze did, it is a no-brainer. You just need a double flare tool and fresh brake line if your lines are weak.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Blaze86Vic
                        Cons; to let off and re-aply the brakes causes the rear brakes to apply, if it shorts out and closes while driving you just lost over 70% of your braking force.
                        With a quality switch and a competent installation, there is almost no chance of shorting and applying since the solenoid fails open (needs current to apply).

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Mercracer
                          With a quality switch and a competent installation, there is almost no chance of shorting and applying since the solenoid fails open (needs current to apply).
                          And with a competent install and quality parts a plane will almost never fail....so I guess we don't need parachutes then do we? No matter how much time and quality parts you put into something, there is always a chance it can fail.
                          Last edited by Blaze86Vic; 04-07-2006, 07:44 AM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by Blaze86Vic
                            And with a competent install and quality parts a plane will almost never fail....so I guess we don't need parachutes then do we? No matter how much time and quality parts you put into something, there is always a chance it can fail.
                            Have to say, he's got a point!!!!
                            1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                            Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              All the line locks I have seen are mounted up near the master cyl. It's more prone to damage/corrosion where you mounted yours.

                              The biggest advantage to running the line lock on the front brakes is to hold the car at the starting line at the strip. Load up the converter and push the button when the last yellow light goes on WEEEE.

                              The line lock solenoid eventually fails mechanically and leaks IIRC
                              2004 Marauder M79 90K miles Jmod!! 14.85 @95.63
                              2004 Crown Vic LX 135K Silver Birch Light flint leather FMX1 04 P-71 PCM swap 04 P-71 Airbox and Zip tube "$100 MZT" 01 F-250 70 MM TB 21mm swaybar wood steering wheel BH headlight relay

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