Im sure he has drag rims, he'd fling the silver paint off the hpp's.
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521 Stroker Motor for the Fairlane
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I have drag radials mounted on the HPP's, and they hook up very well. I may go to steel rims again, because I want to get a bigger drag radial back there. I haven't updated the past few weeks of working on her, so here she goes.
After a few long months out of commission, I finally started working on my 521. I painted the block Dark Ford Blue, and checked the bearing clearances and crank end play. I was happy that every one of the main and rod bearings had .002" of clearance. The crank end play was .005". It's nice to be working in the garage again. This is for a mostly street engine, and 6000rpm max. I took the time to plasti-gauge each rod bearing, as well as the mains.
Every one looked just like this pic.
I used a dial indicator to measure the crank end play.
I finally attached the oil pump (M84BHV), to check the clearance with the Canton Main Support, and the 15-750 pan and 15-751 pickup clearance. I had to do a little grinding on two areas of the support with a die grinder and file, to allow the pump to sit flush on the block. Once those areas were cleared, the pump cleared one of the main bolts underneath the pump too. Here's a couple pics of where it was hitting, and my clearance after.
Before:
After:
My only disappointment, was that the pan wouldn't sit flush with the windage tray attached. The tray is too high, and it bottoms out on the pan towards the rear, before it sits flush. I thought this was a matched set?
I test fit the older Lakewood bellhousing I bought off someone, and checked the fitment of the TO bearing and clutch fork. I had to "manipulate" the fork opening some to clear, but I didn't mind since it was opened up wider when I bought it. I'll be running a hydraulic clutch setup, with a slave cylinder mounted ahead of the fork. I'm going to have to cut the fork, and make up a new pivot point for the slave cylinder rod. That will be the fun part. I have to do this, because the fork won't clear my headers as is. Anyway, I wired brushed the loose stuff, degreased it, and sprayed some cast iron paint on it. I have all new seals and gaskets to put it too. The insides were rebuilt a long time ago, and it was shifting smoothly when I took it out of my old 70 Torino Cobra about 10 years ago. It's the big spline in/out, close ratio. It's going to be nice grabbing the gears again.
Tom, I know you like 4-speeds, so I finished the transmission. I even put in a new tailshaft bushing too.
A new trans mount and plug....
I spent awhile assembling the pistons and rods, took the crankshaft/main bearings back out, and re-cleaned the block again to prep for final assembly.
Well I finished the shortblock...
I have a little more "trimming" to do on the windage tray, so I haven't given up hope. I'd really like to make that fit, but it's going to be close.
I picked up this neet piston install tool made by ARP, for .030 460 (4.390" bore). It tapers down nicely to close the rings to fit inside the bore.
I just need to modify the windage tray, then I can bolt on the oil pan, run some oil through the system using a drill, and then I'll bolt the intake on after that. Here's a pic, with all the valves adjusted and ready to go. She sure looks purdy. I hope to get that engine and trans out of the Fairlane soon, so I can get this baby fired up.
I need to find two more allen head socket bolts for the timing cover.
Ford Racing billet timing marker
I was a little disappointed my Canton windage tray, when bolted to the Canton main support, didn't fit under my Canton 15-750 deep front sump pan. It was hitting the shallow back end of the pan and sides. However, thanks to a block of wood and a hammer to flatten it down some, a Sharpie marker, a drill to relocate three holes, and a sawzall to trim the edges of the tray, to make it all fit nicely. :hacksaw:
I also installed the one piece Ford Racing pan gasket. I used a Unibit to enlarge the four corner stud holes, and then mounted the pan.
I hit a snag with the stock style chrome valve covers. The baffles are hitting the rocker arms. I wish those taller Ford Racing aluminum valve covers would work, but they would hit my brake master cylinder.
I took my brother's new Moroso valve covers instead. They are 3 1/2" tall, just clear my brake master cylinder, and I'm going to use an emblem I took off one of my old valve covers, to lose that Moroso name. I ran some oil in the engine, by turning the pump with a drill. I have 75psi and she's flowing nicely through the pushrods. I bolted on the valve covers for good, but I didn't torque down the intake, because I have a hole to tap threads into to plug it up. It's the bypass tube hole for using a mechanical water pump. I forgot all about getting a 3/8 NPT tap to do that.
Here's that hole I need to tap ....
Stayed tuned for more to come........1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed
1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD
2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
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Thank you Sir. I went with red on the electric water pump, because it will match the red billet MSD distributor and I'll have red wires. I also have a red anodized K&N X-treme air cleaner lid. The engine sort of has that American red-white (silver)-blue theme.1966 Ford Fairlane 500XL - 521 Stroker/4-speed
1997 Ford F250XLT Heavy Duty - 460/E4OD
2008 Ford Crown Victoria LX
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Mercedes Benz S Class W126 ,Ford Grand Marquis Club & Road Dog Trucking owner on Facebook
- Jun 2005
- 2373
- Muncy PA
- Send PM
Originally posted by PatFromJerseyThank you Sir. I went with red on the electric water pump, because it will match the red billet MSD distributor and I'll have red wires. I also have a red anodized K&N X-treme air cleaner lid. The engine sort of has that American red-white (silver)-blue theme.2000 Crown Vic LX HPP Red w/3:55 Rears
85 Crown Vic Stock w/HPP`s
07 JCL 250 A Scooter
79 to 91 Mercedes S Class W126 US or Euro Versions coming soon
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wow!
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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One of the nicest BBF buildups I have seen. Thanks for sharing that, that is some impressive shit.
You wouldn't mind sharing what color/brand that cool "cast iron-looking" paint was, would you?
Thanks.
-mercenvyMy car is a Shelby SVT Cobra GT Boss Grand Marquis Type R
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2 door vic? bah ........fairlaines were the ultimate box
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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