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94 and an 85 axle swap

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    94 and an 85 axle swap

    My sis is being kind enough to let me swap rear ends with her 94 cop car. The axles should interchange easily if I am correct, but what about the 94's sway bar, can I use it on my 85? Do the control arm bushings need pressed in and out to replace? Is there anything else I need to watch out for? I think it has drums, not disk brakes, but I havent checked yet.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

    #2
    a 94 has rear disc. It also have different brake hose routing, you will have to re-plumb a little if you go with the rear disc.

    92+ sway bars use endlinks, you would have to drill the frame to accept the endlinks.

    Bushings have to be pressed out.
    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
    http://secondhandradio.com/

    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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      #3
      damn, thats what I was afraid of. Does the disk brake rear have the same hose connection above the pumpkin like my 85 does? I'm gonna do some thread searching about rear disk swaps

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

      Comment


        #4
        no it doe snot. you will have to cut and flare lines. on mine i used the 92+ brake lines on the fram, had to cut and flare one line. Lincolnmania can tell you what you need to do it.
        http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
        http://secondhandradio.com/

        R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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          #5
          Whem the cars here I'm gonna look at it, My front parking brake cable is snapped so I dont care about them being functionable on my car, but I need them to work on the 94. Does anyone have pics of the connections of the brake lines and cables?

          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

          Comment


            #6
            Why are you swapping the entire rear? It might be easier to just do a gear change on your car rather than ripping 2 apart and having to deal with converting drums to disk and disk to drum. Check the classifieds, I remember mrltd had a few sets of gears and traction lock units for sale cheap.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #7
              No gears, got the limited slip though...
              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                #8
                are the pinion shaft flanges the same? I was thinking they are, but then I want to say I remember hearing different.
                Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                sigpic
                85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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                  #9
                  Well its a 3.27 locker (e code). I would swap the internals but Setting back lash and shimming on the gears seems like a lot more to me. I remeber reading countless articles on how to do it, but I still am sorta nervous about doing all that. I guess it would be easier, and I wouldnt have to mess with the brakes too. I havent looked under it yet too see for myself how difficult it may be.

                  2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                  My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'm gonna go ahead and swap out the 3.27 gears and the traclock for the open 2.73's. Seems like the easiest way to go at this point. She needs new rear rotors so when I replace those, i'll rip apart the rear.

                    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You might be better off with a 3.55 and a trac lock. I'd seriously consider rebuilding the traction lock in any case before you install it. $50 kit from Summit. I'm gonna warn you, her car is gonna be a total dog with a 2.73 rear, worse than yours is. 4.6 motors need a higher gear simply because they don't have a ton of low end torque. There is also the fact to consider you're tearing apart 2 rears, requiring shimming and adjustment for 2 vehicles vs just doing one. You also have to replace that crush collar and probably some other stuff I disremember offhand. Also, if you're pulling apart high mileage rears, it would be a good idea to replace the bearings and seals too. Just want to make sure you know what you're in for ahead of time.

                      And the rotor replacement does not require tearing apart the rear. Just pull the wheels and calipers, and the rotor slides off.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        You might be better off with a 3.55 and a trac lock. I'd seriously consider rebuilding the traction lock in any case before you install it. $50 kit from Summit. I'm gonna warn you, her car is gonna be a total dog with a 2.73 rear, worse than yours is. 4.6 motors need a higher gear simply because they don't have a ton of low end torque. There is also the fact to consider you're tearing apart 2 rears, requiring shimming and adjustment for 2 vehicles vs just doing one. You also have to replace that crush collar and probably some other stuff I disremember offhand. Also, if you're pulling apart high mileage rears, it would be a good idea to replace the bearings and seals too. Just want to make sure you know what you're in for ahead of time.

                        And the rotor replacement does not require tearing apart the rear. Just pull the wheels and calipers, and the rotor slides off.

                        Thanks gadget, I was thinking about it today and decided not to do it. seems like way more work than it its worthand a 3.27 aint that good, and you are right the 94 is slow enough anyway. I'd probably end up replacing all the seals and bearings. I'm gonna be working alot this summer so I can get somethings I really want like 3.73's or 3.90's.

                        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Get 4.10s :evil:
                          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                            #14
                            your susposed to check backlash but in my experance if you dont change the carrier as long as the shim between the back of the pinion is the same as the old one your really dont need to re shim everything ive done it several time and had no probs but you should replace the cruch collar and check that the ring and pinion are engaging properly (marking compound) ok now everyone can bitch about how bad this is

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