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{CARB-SWAP}Coil resistor help

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    {CARB-SWAP}Coil resistor help

    I bought a points coil for my car today, for the new distributor I got. But, I forgot to get a resistor for it. I was online, on partsamerica.com, and it has listings for ballast resistors, and coil resistors. Which one do I need?

    This is the one I was looking at, but is that really a resistor? I am proficient with electronics, and I do not see a resistor anywhere in there. Is this what I need?



    Once I do get it, it must go between the power from the bat, and the positive terminal on the coil, right?

    I should know this stuff, but for some reason, I don't. Oh well, I guess thats what GMN is for anyway.

    Thanks guys!
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

    #2
    that is a resistor wire. you could use that if the price isnt too bad........i used a ceramic block resistor on my 84 crown vic..........damm if i remember how to hook it up.......maybe it will come to me later
    scott

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment


      #3
      That one is around $7 at partsamerica.com

      I think it needs to go between the + on the coil, and the wire from the ignition.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

      Comment


        #4
        Your factory wire harness uses a resistor already.
        Points suck dude. I would rethink using a points distributor. For about the same price, you can get a Duraspark II distributor. Harness and box should be easy to find in a bone yard.
        If you are bent on keeping your points distributor, and plan on future upgrades or doing any drag racing, pick up a used 6AL and just use the distributor as a trigger, as the points will last virtually forever. Another choice is to get an Igniter module to replace your points.
        My first cars used points. I took my drivers' test in a '73 Mustang fastback. I know that you can run points, but there is no reason to any more.

        Comment


          #5
          Points rock, electronic ignition sucks balls.

          I did a carb conversion on my '85 LTC, and decided to use a points distributor and all that good shit.

          In all my experience, I have had no problems with vehicles that use points ignition systems. I have, however have had nothing but problems with vehicles with electronic ignition systems.
          Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
          Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

          Comment


            #6
            You have to tell me this story man.
            What problems have you had with an electronic ignition system?

            Comment


              #7
              theres no story to tell. I had a car with DIS, and the Coil pack thing took a shit. Cost a fortune to fix. How much does it cost to replace points on a distributor? $2.50.

              How much to replace an engine computer? might as well buy a new car.

              How much is an EEC-IV ignition coil? $50

              TFI module? $40?

              How much to replace a points coil? $15.

              The point is:

              Points are simple and cheap. There is one wire to hook up, no sensors, no fucking computers, no bullshit.
              Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
              Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

              Comment


                #8
                $2.50 for points? You aren't supposed to shop at the dollar store for car parts. :yay:

                If you are doing a conversion from EEC to something else, you only have to buy a Duraspark distributor once which is about the same price as a points distributor, and you should only have to by a Duraspark II module once. No regular internal maintenance ever.
                Points are subject to burning out on a regular basis. They are a wear part. Performance suffers as points wear and readjustment becomes necessary.

                I get your point although I do not agree with it. I do agree that FI and EEC systems can be more expensive when parts fail. For a daily driver, I will take the EEC and FI over a carb and points any day.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Dollar store? WHY YOUS!!!!!

                  I also see your point, and I don't have anything against FI in particular, its just a lot of shit to deal with is all.
                  Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                  Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    dude! if you can drum up 100 bucks one of these will hopfully solve your problems.



                    Im willing to donate 10 bucks for real. 4 more of us do it and you're halfway there.

                    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I have already bought a brand new Points distributor. I paid $60 for it, and I don't see the point in returning it, then spending $100 dollars on that one. I'll just have to wait and see what happens.


                      Thanks though man for the offer.
                      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        i'd donate 10 bux too if needed
                        Save a seal, club a liberal.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Hey, let's convert back to flat-heads and run leaded gas!

                          I can't say much, I'm converting my '85 CFI T-bird back to a carb, but at least it's a 4-barrel. I likes my gas mileage. You won't catch me taking the SEFI off of my Grand Marquis ever, though. There's no comparing to the smoothness.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Hey, let's convert back to flat-heads and run leaded gas!
                            Dont give me any ideas, eh?
                            1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                            Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I have to side with the others, points suck. I'd go with another option. Duraspark II. It's not the thin film TFI thingy that is prone to failure. Duraspark II has a module that sits on the fender well. It's basically not much more than a solid state replacement for points and it's VERY reliable.
                              ___________

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