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    #16
    Lower ball joints, calipers, hub bearings, rotors as well

    and again, not really worth the effort. Same size brakes as you already have.

    No alignment problems, other than finding a shop that isn't brain dead. The parts all fit up fine and can be adjusted correctly, as long as you get a shop that knows how to do an alignment in the first place. Took me 4 tries to find someone that made it go correctly, and its been absolutely perfect for quite some years now.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #17
      If you are patient and have some spare cash to drop on expensive camber, caster and toe gauges/measuring devices you can always do it yourself and thus blame yourself if it is wrong. You just need to find the specs and try to duplicate them.

      This is the route I took when I converted to big brakes a couple years back. Camber was easy to do. Caster a bit more difficult. Toe is really easy BUT getting it correct and having your steering wheel centered was the most difficult part. MANY MANY MANY adjustments were made to toe to get the steering wheel centered.

      Measure toe, jack up car, adjust toe, drop car, roll car back and forth, measure toe, go for drive, FUCK steering wheel still off...rinse and repeat until happy or tossing in the towel.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
        Lower ball joints, calipers, hub bearings, rotors as well

        and again, not really worth the effort. Same size brakes as you already have.

        No alignment problems, other than finding a shop that isn't brain dead. The parts all fit up fine and can be adjusted correctly, as long as you get a shop that knows how to do an alignment in the first place. Took me 4 tries to find someone that made it go correctly, and its been absolutely perfect for quite some years now.
        Well yeah, the same size, but it'll give me access to better rotors that are cheaper and easier to get. I need to replace the warped rotors and all the wasted suspension bushings and steering stuff, so swapping everything in won't be any more work.

        Are you sure the calipers won't fit? I already have a right-side police caliper, and cross-referencing the part number on the box says this will fit a 92-94. And from there...it looks like the stock ones will fit up to a 93?

        PARTS BIN TO THE MAX. MURICA.

        Originally posted by 87gtVIC View Post
        If you are patient and have some spare cash to drop on expensive camber, caster and toe gauges/measuring devices you can always do it yourself and thus blame yourself if it is wrong. You just need to find the specs and try to duplicate them.

        This is the route I took when I converted to big brakes a couple years back. Camber was easy to do. Caster a bit more difficult. Toe is really easy BUT getting it correct and having your steering wheel centered was the most difficult part. MANY MANY MANY adjustments were made to toe to get the steering wheel centered.

        Measure toe, jack up car, adjust toe, drop car, roll car back and forth, measure toe, go for drive, FUCK steering wheel still off...rinse and repeat until happy or tossing in the towel.
        I don't mean to laugh at your pain, but I got a chuckle out of that. You got a lot farther than I would.
        89 Grand Marquis GS.

        Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

        Comment


          #19
          95-97 brakes are the 2nd best option next to the big brakes. They will allow the use of the 15" wheels. And only require a few different pieces to make the big brakes work with them in the future, if you ever decide that stopping is more important than 15" wheels.
          For those brakes, you'd need the spindles, upper arms from a 92-94, upper ball joints from the same application, lower ball joints for 95-97 (may be the same as later), calipers, rotors, hoses, hubs for a 97. And boom you're done.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
            95-97 brakes are the 2nd best option next to the big brakes. They will allow the use of the 15" wheels. And only require a few different pieces to make the big brakes work with them in the future, if you ever decide that stopping is more important than 15" wheels.
            For those brakes, you'd need the spindles, upper arms from a 92-94, upper ball joints from the same application, lower ball joints for 95-97 (may be the same as later), calipers, rotors, hoses, hubs for a 97. And boom you're done.
            The snag with that is unloaded calipers for a 97 are more expensive than loaded police calipers for the big brakes. I've already got the right-side caliper (21 bucks on clearance), and I'll have the right upper control arms for when I can afford the conversion, which...won't be any time soon. That's probably the very last thing I'll do, just because of the cost of new wheels and tires on top of everything else in contrast to how little I'd actually gain from it. I mean, these brakes are more than adequate as they are, and that's with warped rotors. Even more so if I put a police booster and disc rears in there.

            With 92-94 brakes, I'd just have to add in the cost of the arms, spindles, and hubs. I was going to get everything else anyway, and this will get me much better rotors. Going the 95-97 route does make more sense, but the cost of that is seriously getting up there and going this route doesn't lose me out much at all in the long run.
            Last edited by ootdega; 08-20-2016, 02:11 AM.
            89 Grand Marquis GS.

            Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

            Comment


              #21
              Car accidents are more expensive than calipers are. Just sayin. If you want to spend no money, leave the stock brakes alone. There is no reason to spend the money and effort to change to brakes that do not perform any better. If you're going to spend money, you may as well make it not suck.

              The 92-94 rotors are not better than the box rotors. The only real difference is they are a "hat" style instead of the integral hub type. No packing of bearings. Other than the extra 10 minutes to pack the bearings, there isn't a bit of functional difference between the two.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #22
                Originally posted by ootdega View Post
                The snag with that is unloaded calipers for a 97 are more expensive than loaded police calipers for the big brakes. I've already got the right-side caliper (21 bucks on clearance), and I'll have the right upper control arms for when I can afford the conversion, which...won't be any time soon. That's probably the very last thing I'll do, just because of the cost of new wheels and tires on top of everything else in contrast to how little I'd actually gain from it. I mean, these brakes are more than adequate as they are, and that's with warped rotors. Even more so if I put a police booster and disc rears in there.

                With 92-94 brakes, I'd just have to add in the cost of the arms, spindles, and hubs. I was going to get everything else anyway, and this will get me much better rotors. Going the 95-97 route does make more sense, but the cost of that is seriously getting up there and going this route doesn't lose me out much at all in the long run.
                Leave your brakes alone then. The 92 brakes use the same dumb calipers and the same amount of rotor surface area as the boxes. You gain nothing by converting to 92-94 brakes. Don't waste your money. But at the same time, don't cheap out on something that is an important safety item on your car!

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                  Car accidents are more expensive than calipers are. Just sayin. If you want to spend no money, leave the stock brakes alone. There is no reason to spend the money and effort to change to brakes that do not perform any better. If you're going to spend money, you may as well make it not suck.

                  The 92-94 rotors are not better than the box rotors. The only real difference is they are a "hat" style instead of the integral hub type. No packing of bearings. Other than the extra 10 minutes to pack the bearings, there isn't a bit of functional difference between the two.
                  No, but these rotors: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....199561&jsn=520

                  Are better than these ones: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....199505&jsn=423

                  Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                  Leave your brakes alone then. The 92 brakes use the same dumb calipers and the same amount of rotor surface area as the boxes. You gain nothing by converting to 92-94 brakes. Don't waste your money. But at the same time, don't cheap out on something that is an important safety item on your car!
                  I need to replace the rotors anyway. The only ones that are available to replace these are getting hard to find and not as good. Putting police calipers on there will be better than the stock calipers are, and this gives me a reason to use them. Better rotors means they are less likely to warp again.

                  You all seem to be under the impression that these brakes take 13 miles to stop from 15 miles per hour and spending the thousand dollars to get rid of them is a matter of life and death. If you're that ridiculously adamant about it then fine, I'll figure something out.
                  Last edited by ootdega; 08-21-2016, 01:17 AM.
                  89 Grand Marquis GS.

                  Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    They really are not better rotors. Same size, and the stock box rotors are vented. Without changing the diameter of the rotor, the braking forces are equal. Its just physics. The only difference is the bearing design, sealed vs serviceable.
                    The police calipers also aren't better. Its the same piston size. Physics again, if two calipers have the same piston surface area, then they will have equal clamping force given a particular input pressure. The only difference is steel pistons vs phenolic. The steel will take heat better, the phenolic take moisture better.

                    The stock brakes lock up far too easily, and they fade rapidly. If you live in the flat lands and don't drive in mountains or cities they may be adequate. Spend some time driving where it isn't flat, or around lots of traffic where you need the brakes frequently, or in the rain, and then do it with a car with upgraded brakes and you'll see why we like the better brakes. Speaking from my own experience with my car, I can tell you it will stop far quicker than most people would ever believe without locking the tires up. I don't have ABS either. The pads and rotors have been on the car since 2007 and they aren't worn out yet. Thats close to 70k miles of driving too.


                    Changing to the 92 spindles is equal work as changing to the big brake spindles. If you're doing the work, you may as well realize some improvement for your efforts. I'm not overly motivated to price out all of the parts between the two, but I would wager that if you did it, you'd find that the cost of parts is not that much different, especially compared to what the cost of labor is if you have someone do the job for you. Just my opinion of course, and they are worth what you pay for them.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                    Comment


                      #25
                      I did a big brake swap on my Grand Marquis with junkyard parts. Gadget73 and Lincolnmania were there when I pulled the spindles and caliper assemblies. 125$ for both loaded spindles!!! I cut the rotors and ran them that way. It is a 92 so I had the proper uppers. I did new bushings up top, and new lower arms for a 98 (just cause I didn't feel like doing the lower ball joints and the lower bushings). They were the same price if I had changed the ball joints and changed the bushings. So it was cost and labor effective to do that.

                      I can also tell you that there's no difference between the cop and non cop aero/box calipers. They bolt up the same, they use the same pads and ride on the same rotors. But you run whatever brakes you want.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        That's...a lot of information I didn't have before.

                        It makes a lot of sense. Just getting tired of having parts I'm not going to use taking up space in this studio apartment is all. Frustrating when I try to capitalize on a price for future plans and end up with effectively a waste of space when those plans change. Not like I'm out a whole lot of money, but I'm running out of places to put normal things as it is.

                        Anyway, reading everything again, the only real difference between the two would be the hoses. I dunno what made me think there was more. Sorry about that.

                        Got a matching pair of arms in the mail. 30 bucks shipped each, figured I should get them now. I know I won't regret getting those at least.


                        The reason I even got the caliper in the first place was because this thread

                        http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...ers-And-Prices

                        said they are required for the pads it listed there. I figured they must be an improvement for that to be a requirement. When these pads ran thin, I was going to swap those on. Then the suspension started falling apart and that idea went with it.


                        Looks like I know what exactly I'm doing now, though. Well, doing next, I guess. I still have a differential to rebuild.

                        Thanks for being patient, you're all very helpful.
                        89 Grand Marquis GS.

                        Putting it here because I keep forgetting to mention it. It's not very exciting at the moment.

                        Comment


                          #27
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          The spindles are the same 1995-2002

                          To run 95-97 brakes on a 2001, you will need these parts:
                          95-97 hub bearing
                          95-97 rotor
                          95-97 caliper bracket
                          95-97 caliper
                          95-97 brake pads

                          and a head exam. Why on earth anyone would want to downgrade their brakes just to run some other wheel is beyond me. Don't kill yourself with shitty brakes just to look cool. 15" tires are like driving on Jello anyway.
                          Thank you.

                          Race car, have to run 15s.


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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