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    Mystery Plug

    Hello--

    I am wrapping up my HO conversion (yes, she runs!). In the process of making sure I have everything plugged back in and all the vacuum lines ran correctly, I stumbled across this plug. Its a two wire, flat, single sided latch plug. Found it on the drivers side of the motor, though it could have been accidentally pulled over there. Colors are Black, Black / green or yellow? (cant tell). Any ideas what it goes to?

    p.s. For those curious, I used an '86 gt cam, gt40 heads, 19lb explorer injectors, and a '90 mk vii computer to do the conversion.


    #2
    Looks like the AC compressor plug.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      I second the ac compressor plug.
      ~David~

      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

      Originally posted by ootdega
      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

      Originally posted by gadget73
      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




      Comment


        #4
        Sweet! it was the ac plug. not sure how the heck it made its way to the drivers side of the engine.

        Time for some vacuum lines.

        The red line coming off the fuel pressure regulator goes to manifold vacuum?
        PCV goes to manifold?
        Green goes to egr?
        Faded red goes to smog pump?
        Black goes...?

        I know, shame on me for not keeping track lol.

        Comment


          #5
          Under your intake manifold you have a vacuum tree with a bunch of ports on them right?

          One of the small ports goes to your fuel pressure regulator with that red stiff line

          the big goofy swan neck port goes to the firewall mounted vacuum plenum

          your pcv valve should loop back into the upper plenum through another port on the underside of the plenum above the pside valve cover and then to the center of the upper plenum into another vacuum hard line.

          charcoal canister I think gets a port near the center of the upper plenum.

          Cannot comment on the rest as I dont have them any longer.
          ~David~

          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

          Originally posted by ootdega
          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

          Originally posted by gadget73
          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




          Comment


            #6
            red is manifold vacuum. That should feed to the EGR solenoid and the two smog pump solenoids.

            Green goes from EVR (egr vac regulator) to EGR valve

            white and black are to the smog pump valves. I don't recall which goes where though. It will be on the emissions label. The upper one next to the trans dipstick is the TAD, the lower one by the pump is the TAB.

            If you don't have a smog pump, cap them. If you do have a smog pump, remove it and cap them

            honestly if you do it right, you can get rid of all of that plastic crap. Run one line from manifold vacuum to the EVR. Run another line from the EVR to the EGR. Make sure you orient them correctly, I forget which port goes to which spot but red is the vacuum one. Mark the lines in some manner to ID them. Get rid of the vacuum pluming in and out of the smog pump crap entirely.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Soooo about the smog pump. I was seriously considering removing it when I saw a line coming off of it that went to a 't' junction. One of the legs at the junction goes to my cruise control. If I remove the pump, will my cruise still work? Also, is there a shorter belt I can buy that can bypass the pump just by the routing of the belt?

              Comment


                #8
                Cruise will be happy. The smog pump is only an supplementary vacuum source. I got rid of my smog pump, and I have only had my cruise kick off once on a very long and steep interstate hill climb.

                A belt exists to bypass smog and keep ac but I can’t vouch for the number.
                1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                GMN Box Panther History
                Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                Box Panther Production Numbers

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've been running without a smog pump for a long time, cruise works fine. You can actually eliminate the T and just provide vacuum to the cruise servo only. Mine had a check valve after the tee, I simply re-located the check valve to act as a connector between the cruise line and the line coming off the vacuum tree. Make sure you put the arrow towards the vacuum tree or it won't work.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    I've been running without a smog pump for a long time, cruise works fine. You can actually eliminate the T and just provide vacuum to the cruise servo only. Mine had a check valve after the tee, I simply re-located the check valve to act as a connector between the cruise line and the line coming off the vacuum tree. Make sure you put the arrow towards the vacuum tree or it won't work.
                    The '87 was setup the same way after the T with that check valve. Sounds like I set up my hoses the same way you did with the smog pump removed.

                    As far as running a bypass belt, I'm presently using a K060563 (MasterPro & Gates use that number). You may also see it as 6K563. The break down however is you essentially need a belt that's six ribs and a bit over 56" long (Mine measures 56-7/8" long). That particular belt was right on the fringe of being too short, but it did slip under the tensioner with a little work. Just a thought since I have seen a shorter belt posted, which may have been just a 56" belt, but that would have been too short. I definitely needed the extra 7/8" to get it in place.

                    I will mention that the belt won't go into place and clear the smog pump, or at least from what I observed when I was setting it up on my car. Bare minimum the pulley to the smog pump would need to be removed so that the belt can go up to the A/C compressor and tensioner.


                    My Cars:
                    -1964 Comet 202 (116K Miles) - Long Term Project
                    -1986 Dodge D-150 Royale SE (112K Miles) - Slowly Getting Put Back Together
                    -1987 Grand Marquis Colony Park LS (325K Miles) - April 2017 + September 2019 POTM Winner
                    -1997 Grand Marquis LS (240K Miles) - The Daily Workhorse & March 2015 + January 2019 POTM Winner

                    Comment


                      #11
                      If you remove the smog pump make up a sleeve for the lower mount of the large flat tensioner bracket. One may even be able to hack off a side of the smog pump to use its case as the sleeve in combination with the small spacer that will fall out. Easy way to determine how long of a sleeve you need is to just measure the smog pump and the spacer that fell out. That length is what you would need to fab up. Some have run without this sleeve bolted into the lower mount but I find it cannot hurt to have in place keeping all things nice a ridged on the tensioner bracket.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                      Comment


                        #12
                        yeah I've had problems with the edge of the belt wearing on mine, and I think its the lack of spacer causing it. Its been on my list of stuff to make. A piece of plumbing pipe big enough to pass the bolt and cut to the correct length is all you need, no special magic parts here.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

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