rustproofing spray

[86GmLsCoupe]

I did Duplicolor I believe. This was before I knew about Por-15 and Eastwood so I did the best that I could at the time. The undercoating is 3m and Transtar, used about a case of each and both are high quality. One spot I hate is that spot below/underneath the tail lights, there's a boxed area (sorta hard to describe) but there is rust inside there but little access. I noticed the area above the tailpipe gets rusty, which I think is partly due the the exhaust itself because the car always had the single, and the passenger side was much worse.

[BigMikeIT]

Old thread, but I have been doing some rust mitigation.
Tried Naval Jelly and I really don't see it doing much.
Degreased pitted door metal and used OSPHO - seems to convert quicker.

Went over to Albert Kemperle and purchased some Zero Rust. I asked the guy if is was a consumer thing. He said it does the same as POR but is less crazy, and same stuff the shops use. Will try tomorrow

[Tiggie]

Keep us posted. I've got rust hiding in the drip rails of the mustang I need to address before paint. I've wire brushed but the are some parts I just can't get to.

[sly]

The navel jelly just eats away the rust and may require more than one application or longer set time. Then you can paint it with self etching primer/sealer or rust encapsulator and it should sort it unless you want things smooth... then you have to do some metal work.

[gadget73]

Naval jelly is primarily phosphoric acid. Same thing that basically all of the rust converters operate with. It changes the red iron oxide into black iron phosphate, which is a stable material.

Evapo-rust is another magic juice that takes rust off. I've seen people use that on old crusty tooling and after a soak it comes out shiny and pretty.

[DerekTheGreat]

If it's something that sees salt on a regular basis just spray it with used oil. Everything I've hit with chainlube or oil has stopped rusting or hasn't started. All coatings give up the ghost afterawhile & then it's back to ground zero. We have an experiment going with POR-15 right now though. Pulled a bumper for our GMT-400 truck, hit it with a wire brush to knock the loose stuff off then cleaned it with brake cleaner & painted it. Painted over the POR-15 with rattle can Rustoleum. Still black but we'll see if it starts to crust up after this winter.

[BigMikeIT]

I don't have pictures for all steps since my phone would've coated with bad stuff.

1)
Banged out and picked at rusty looking metal, using a crescent wrench to grab onto and break off flaking/bumpy metal.
Also poking at questionable spots with said wrench to see how thin it is. Push through to perforate.

2)
Sanded down to metal as best with these items. Worked very nicely.
https://www.amazon.com/Weiler-Brush-.../dp/B000HE5AV8

3)
Cleaned out as much of the top soil from the door and cleared the drain holes.
An air compressor would have done well - no havie.

4)
Used 'Marine Clean" at full strength. Probably should have diluted a bit.
Overspray can turn clearcoat yellow. But can be wiped out with water.

5)
Tried Naval Jelly, but after washing it off, didn't see much effect mich.
It seemed not the correct product, since one reason for oxidized metal is due to water being stuck in the seams and this product requires spraying water into the problem (again).
I let dry overnight. Risking oxidation. This product is probably best for flat or metal not in tight spaces.
The directions on the bottle and pro advice contradict how to use it effectively.

6)
Used Ospho since it seems to be a tested solution, as is Rust Mort for fabricators.
Sprayed Ospho liberally inside door, on seams and outside where metal became perforated to under the "granny trim".
Several coats from a spray bottle. This stuff is potent and can burn slightly.
https://www.amazon.com/Rubbermaid-32.../dp/B018UPXP80

I watched it drip through the seams and was satisfied it penetrated well.
Let it dry overnight. White ash can appear on metal - OK. just wipe off prior to etching primer.
Metal turned black, converted very nicely to iron phosphate, fairly hard surface

****From here on I used a P95 3M mask.***

7)
Obtained Zero Rust from Albert Kemperle, easier to use than POR15 as it comes in an aerosol can.
Sprayed all blackened metal in and out. It is a direct-to-rust item.
But it didn't fill the seams inside the door frame (where the window motor lives).

Mind you the weather this weekend in NY was sunny and dry.
Still needing to fill perforations, I used body filler and spackeled that in heavy so it extruded through the pits.
Let it dry. Once confident that bonded well.
I do understand the problem of trapping moisture under the body filler, but it was damn dry this weekend.

**Use P95 3M mask**

8)
I purchased a quart of POR15, grey.
Poured it right into the door. A fabricator told me about this one. This stuff flowed like Terminator 1000 liquid metal.
I poured enough so it ran out the drain holes. Use some sort of absorbant material to catch the POR15.
Wipe excess from drain holes/rocker panel with mineral spirits.
Then used a brush to paint anything I treated previously inside the door shell, along the bottom seam and drip holes.
Took about 2-3 hours to dry hard.

I did not use POR on the outside under the granny trim. I uses spot glaze (which dries very hard), sanded, primed and painted.

I uses Rustoleum self-etching, then custom 9L Oxford White 1K Base Coat from 66 Auto, then 1K Clear Coat.
These custom color cans are expensive, but spray like a proper calibrated gun. Good pressure. Also works awesome for blending.
The color match is sooo good it looks OEM.

This may be overkill, but short of welding new metal, if all the products work as intended, should be OK now.
Will know myself in winter too.
Need 3 dry days outside or garage. Got a great tan.

[BigMikeIT]

P72Ford,

I don't recall what is on the floorpans from the factory, if it is a black epoxy. Did you media blast them to strip down to metal?

[mashaffer]

Wondering about this stuff followed by duplicolor or similar as a stop gap until I can afford body work.

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p...3877/NCB633877

I note it says surface rust must be present. Does that mean that if I have cleaned the area up really well that I need another primer over it before the color coat?

[gadget73]

Basically it means its not meant for clean shiny metal. If you've wire brushed it to get the loose flaky shit off but its still got some obvious signs of rusty looking metal, this should be fine.