Saved from the Demo Derby: 1990 Country Squire

[pantera77]

Can you still get a new pump/sending unit assembly for a wagon? If so that's the way I'd do it. Old fuel wreaks havoc on everything.

I'd also pull the upper intake (all the vacuum lines are probably shot anyways, may as well kill two birds with one stone) and pull the fuel rails and injectors. I wouldn't be surprised if there were loads of crud in their internal filters.

[Tiggie]

Pulled the pump and sender out today.

I'm not convinced this pump has pumped anything in the last several years. This would be a good thing since hopefully none of the crud got up to the fuel rails.






Going to test the resistance on the sender next to see if it can be made to be functional again. See the lack of a float? Yeah it came out that way... and there was no float in the tank. Nothing has ever been screwed around with on this car, so I am guessing the stale fuel ate it. Yummy.

[sly]

looks like supermotors.net is down right now... so...

[Tiggie]

Fuel Level Sender Repaired: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...-Sender-Repair

Next task: Fuel pump R&R. Got a NOS Ford pump in the garage somewhere. Need to match with this hanger.

Anyone confirm that the float for this is the standard round Ford float they used since the 1950's?

Also - what is the correct fuel filler seal for this car? The one from the pipe to the tank? What I see on the Dorman website looks small.

New tank in the mail. Amazon Warehouse Deals $55 with free shipping. Heck yeah.

[Grand Marquis GT]

That is the worst I have ever seen. Yuck!

[TecNickal]

Hope you got the wagon specific tank.
And wow that thing looks nasty!

[GM_Guy]

Final thing - I don't have a key to the wheel cover locks. Are all boxes the same? Anyone got one to spare or ideas for getting the locks lose?

Long needle nose pliers to reach through the hole, and another set of pliers to turn the needlenose if they are tight. Thats how I got my "locks" off, then I threw those things in the steel bin at work. Nobody is going to steal wire hubcaps anyway.

Alex.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I did a fuel pump on a car that had been sitting for 9 years and it didn't look that bad. Holy cow!

[87gtVIC]

Tiggie...when i replaced my fuel sending unit it was the metal cylinder one. A piece of wire partially wrapped around it to clip it into place exactly like you have pictured.

[Tiggie]

Did some probing around on the fuel system today. Fuel filter was clean. Fuel lines are clean. Fuel pump officially locked up so it never pumped nasty rust chunky fuel (at least not much if it did).


Got to figure out what to do for a new fuel pump. I have a new pump. But no rubber isolator (whatever that thing is around the pump) or strainer. Do I need the rubber thing? And the hot wire on the pump is unattached at the bracket. I guess I could solder it on? Ideas welcome! I don't really want to pay $100 for a new hanger/pump if I can use this new pump I have. Yes I am a cheapskate.



Did some research on part numbers. This may affect some of you if you do a fuel tank on a car that's got a trashed fuel system like mine. All of these part numbers work for CFI or EFI cars - some are different for carb'd cars.
E1AZ-9072-B is the fuel tank filler pipe gasket on the tank side. The replacement parts (Dorman) catalogs list this part as the same on a Box Panther and similar age Mustang. They are not the same - you need a NOS one with this part number.
E1FZ-9B076-B is the seal for the fuel vapor separator valve on the top of the tank. It's common to all Ford cars of a similar vintage.
E1VZ-9417-B is the seal for the fuel pump if you don't need the retainer ring and are too cheap to buy a new pump with one included (like me).
C0AZ-9276-A is the fuel level sending unit seal. Common to most Ford products 1960-1990ish.
C0AZ-9202-B is the float for the fuel level sending unit. Common to most Ford products 1960-1990ish.
E3VZ-9B357-A is a fuel pump noise reduction kit that contains everything needed to replace a fuel pump except the fuel pump. This includes the rubber isolator that surrounds the pump.

[Tiggie]

Got to figure out what to do for a new fuel pump. I have a new pump. But no rubber isolator (whatever that thing is around the pump) or strainer. Do I need the rubber thing? And the hot wire on the pump is unattached at the bracket. I guess I could solder it on? Ideas welcome! I don't really want to pay $100 for a new hanger/pump if I can use this new pump I have. Yes I am a cheapskate.

Just ordered more stuff. Spending money is not fun! Figured the pump has to have that rubber boot/isolator to mount to the hanger, so got a whole new fuel pump with hanger from AutoZone coming in the mail. Lifetime warranty was worth the $10 additional charge over Amazon or RockAuto 1-Year. Still expensive but glad they still make it.

Also ordered the fuel float and vapor valve seal from Mustangs Unlimited. And the correct fuel filler neck to tank seal from Tasca Ford on eBay. And a fuel filter, fuel sending unit seal, injector o-rings, and a 7-lb radiator cap to help the 26-year old hoses survive for a little bit while I get it running, all from RockAuto.

The $663 car is now a $905 dollar car. Hope it runs.

Also - made an error on the part numbers in the last post. Fuel sending unit seal is C0AF-9276-A, also serviced by Motorcraft CG-783, and available from RockAuto under that number. Also the fuel pump seal is Motorcraft CG-788, although RockAuto doesn't currently list that.

[Tiggie]

New tank and pump in. Flushed fuel lines and fuel rails. New fuel filter. New seals on everything fuel tank. And an oil change.

Cranked for five seconds. Tried the fire. Cranked again. Purrrrrrrr. It is even running? Yes but so quiet!

After a couple minutes of idling, the idler for the air and smog started complaining a little but it's still spinning.

Drove it around the neighborhood. First letdown: trans is shifting at about 4K rpm with foot off the gas. That's 30 mph or so in first and 50ish in second. Does have third. Just not until 50mph and if you drop below 45 it's back to second with any throttle. Not sure about OD - can't go that fast on 20 year old Michelins. Shifts quite firm when it shifts. I am hoping to find a maxed out TV adjustment or a stuck return spring or something like that. I know it's connected at the throttle body but that's all I've had time to check.

Also, the fan isn't working for the heat. And the gas gauge is still on 3/4 full even though it only has 1/4 tank. And the parking brake contraption isn't catching to hold the parking brake. More things to troubleshoot as time allows.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Good to hear it is running. I love SEFI engines since attempting to get them started after sitting a while usually won't be troublesome if everything else is in good order. Your wagon sat for as long as the little Infiniti I've been working on with a friend, all laid up because of a dead fuel pump, lol.

Hopefully getting everything else sorted out won't be too difficult.

[sly]

The uber late shifting sounds like the TV cable is either stuck at wide open (cable seized) or the lever on the trans is seized and stuck at wide open... or the plunger in the trans is stuck (broken return spring?).

[gabegt90]

Nice to see you again Ben I'm glad you got the wagon running