Big Brake Swap

[JeffBoudah]

Lets get back to the brake swap part... shall we?

The upper arms were off a 93 mgm iirc. I want to disassemble, paint, and do the poly bushings which reuse the shells. These bumps are bigger than the shell ID and wont push threw... i milled flats, just took about .020" off each side.

[JeffBoudah]

Lowers done. A production versions will change a little from these... Welding was a snap. This was done on an eastwood tig welder. Nice damn welder for the price.

[pantera77]

Looks great, if you plan to whip up some more let me know.

[JeffBoudah]

Not a problem... now this is easy to do a group buy on. I'll get like 10 sets cut... and you guys buy them. K? ha.

[jaywish]

Hi,

Is the Eastwood unit China made?

[JeffBoudah]

Pretty sure it is. But the closest thing from Miller or Lincoln is $1800+

These are what the production plates will look like. Bend lines will be etched. $20+ shipping sound good?

[pantera77]

These are what the production plates will look like. Bend lines will be etched. $20+ shipping sound good?

Sounds good to me, I'll buy a couple sets.

[Bobcat]

Anything on how they perform? I take it you're just selling just the metal to box them in, right.

Looks pretty.

[Lincolnmania]

ooh? i'll take a set if they are affordable.

[JeffBoudah]

Sounds good to me, I'll buy a couple sets.

Anything on how they perform? I take it you're just selling just the metal to box them in, right.

Looks pretty.

ooh? i'll take a set if they are affordable.

They are just the boxing plates. Unbent. You DIY guys can bend them and burn them in no prob. I used a TIG. A MIG should be just as easy to weld, in less time, just more spatter. No idea on actual performance. It'll be a bit before my car is on the road obviously. You guys will be the test run. $20 is basically cost for the material and cut time on the laser.

These will be 1 step thinner @ 12 ga. cold rolled steel. 11ga was a bit thicker than the base arm material.

Tips... clean the weld surface really really good, tack it all in first. Balance your heat side to side, and end to end so you don't warp the arms, clamp a bushing in the open upper arm's end to keep the spacing right. If you 'over bend' the end tabs on the long bars don't worry, just clamp them down and weld them in.

[JeffBoudah]

Ok here is the final design, I promise...

[86VickyLX]

I want!

[HiFiMerc]

Any guarantees that these won't rip the mounts out of my nice, mostly rust free frame?

[sly]

If you stick with rubber bushings or ES Poly, there shouldn't be any issues. Fully boxed might have issues... but this design allows some flex still. If there's any concern... double plating the frame mounts (welding another plate to the outer side of the mounts and to the frame) or adding angle braces to the mounts will sort that.

[JeffBoudah]

I'm going poly on these. The newest design will allow for flex. My prototype arms may be a bit too stiff... but we'll cross that bridge when we get there.