Is it a fuse? - GrandMarq.NET

deepsleep · 12-18-2009, 12:20 AM

Couple weeks ago I noticed that my dash lights went out but the next day it was back. Then recently it happened again but I didnt think much of it, hit the road, and ended up getting pulled over for my tails being out.

So I would think its a fuse but I'm not sure. Well anyways, I cant find the freakin fuse box anyways. Where is it?? Me and a buddy looked and looked and I even looked at my haynes manual just says under the passenger side dash but I cant find the friggin thing.

Edit : If it makes a difference, I think my 88 GM is loaded up and has power seats and premium stereo. My head lights work fine, I think its only the dash and tails that are not working.

1990LTD · 12-18-2009, 12:27 AM

under the steering column by your feet

deepsleep · 12-18-2009, 01:50 AM

Okay, so its on the drivers side. Thanks!

**87gtVIC** · 12-18-2009, 04:23 AM

Yeah you have to remove that cover underneath the steering column. and it will be right there. As far as it being a fuse or not...I am not qualified to say.

1990LTD · 12-18-2009, 06:33 AM

the fact that it will work a bit makes me think it's not a fuse but I've been wrong about a lot of other things.

91waggin · 12-18-2009, 12:06 PM

On my 91, the fuse for the dash lights also runs the markers at all four corners (tails and front marker lights). It's a 15 amp, IIRC.

86VickyLX · 12-18-2009, 03:42 PM

If it was the fuse itself, then the lights would never come on. If the fuse was loose in the box, then it might cause intermittent light operation.

**gadget73** · 12-18-2009, 10:06 PM

My bets are hedging on the headlight switch, or the connector to the headlight switch. They're known to melt and cause bad connections.

deepsleep · 12-18-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gadget73

My bets are hedging on the headlight switch, or the connector to the headlight switch. They're known to melt and cause bad connections.

Head light switch? Even when its my dash and taillights (not brake lights)? I'll check it out tomorrow but if its the fuse, the fuse would be damaged right?

**85crownHPP** · 12-19-2009, 08:05 AM

Brake lights have nothing to do with the headlight switch, any lights controlled by the headlight switch acting erratically could easily be a sign of it going bad.

**gadget73** · 12-19-2009, 11:03 AM

The headlight switch has 3 sections to it, one for headlamps, one for dash lamps, and one for parking lamps. The brake lights are totally independent. The P terminal (parking lamps) has a habit of melting down on the headlight switch. Pull it out, if the connection in the back corner is all burned looking, thats the problem.

deepsleep · 12-19-2009, 11:22 PM

Okay wtf. The lights started working again... When I stopped by 7-11 and turned the car back on the dash lights didnt come on and then I turned the headlight nob off and on and it came on. Whats going on with this thing?

91waggin · 12-19-2009, 11:53 PM

If the connections on the headlight switch aren't making an intermittent connection because they're burnt, it could be the circuit breaker in the headlight switch. Circuit breakers on these cars will reset themselves once the circuit cools down enough, and will blow once the circuit gets hot. That's why it'll act like an intermittent connection.

**gadget73** · 12-20-2009, 09:28 AM

The switch or the connections are failing. Pull the switch out and have a look. If the connection is bad, it will make a lot of heat which could cause a serious problem.

GM_Guy · 12-20-2009, 05:22 PM

This was the cause of my funky tail and dash lights;

**gadget73** · 12-20-2009, 10:14 PM

yep, thats the one. I'm actually beginning to think that modding the wiring harness to relay the parking lamps would be a good idea.

deepsleep · 01-26-2010, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GM_Guy

This was the cause of my funky tail and dash lights;

Oh crap, I remember that I smelled burning plastic when it was working. Well its not working now... That thing is under the dash behind the light thingy?

**gadget73** · 01-26-2010, 04:56 PM

its plugged into the light switch, which you have to remove in order to get to that plug. Getting the switch out sucks, so brush up on your swear words. Theres a button on the side of the switch that you have to find with your fingers in order to pull the whole shaft out of the middle of the switch. Once thats off, unscrew the trim ring from behind the pullout knob. The switch then fishes down out of the dash in some magical contortionistic way until you can almost get a good look at it. I don't know what sadist designed that thing but they should be beaten. Theres no reason for it being that difficult to replace.

deepsleep · 01-26-2010, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gadget73

its plugged into the light switch, which you have to remove in order to get to that plug. Getting the switch out sucks, so brush up on your swear words. Theres a button on the side of the switch that you have to find with your fingers in order to pull the whole shaft out of the middle of the switch. Once thats off, unscrew the trim ring from behind the pullout knob. The switch then fishes down out of the dash in some magical contortionistic way until you can almost get a good look at it. I don't know what sadist designed that thing but they should be beaten. Theres no reason for it being that difficult to replace.

Wait, so I dont need to take any dash panels off?

1990LTD · 01-26-2010, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by deepsleep

Wait, so I dont need to take any dash panels off?

No he meant in addition to the dash panel...long skinny trim pieces pop off, bezels unscrew (but don't come off YET), and you'll need to unbolt the panel directly underneath the steering column to reach up inside to push the button on the switch, which you pull out at the same time as you're pushing the button. Light switch knob pulls straight out and then you are able to remove the bezel to access the sweet sweet brains. Just push the switch (sans knob) back in so you're not working on the car with your lights on. Of course, if you're smarter than I am, you probably disconnected the battery before starting.

12-18-2009, 12:20 AM	#1
deepsleep Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 214	Is it a fuse? Couple weeks ago I noticed that my dash lights went out but the next day it was back. Then recently it happened again but I didnt think much of it, hit the road, and ended up getting pulled over for my tails being out. So I would think its a fuse but I'm not sure. Well anyways, I cant find the freakin fuse box anyways. Where is it?? Me and a buddy looked and looked and I even looked at my haynes manual just says under the passenger side dash but I cant find the friggin thing. Edit : If it makes a difference, I think my 88 GM is loaded up and has power seats and premium stereo. My head lights work fine, I think its only the dash and tails that are not working. __________________ 88 MGM 5.0 stock

12-18-2009, 12:27 AM	#2
1990LTD driving like an old man since 2001 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Posts: 3,864	under the steering column by your feet __________________ - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the mothership w/ 5.0 EFI - AOD & 3.08 rear (3G swap/GMQ dash/Stern blinker mod/"mini" starter/KYB cop shocks/2.25" catless duals with Magnaflows) - Daily. soon: H.O intake/throttle body/injectors/ecu/cobra cam, rear sway bar

12-18-2009, 01:50 AM	#3
deepsleep Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 214	Okay, so its on the drivers side. Thanks! __________________ 88 MGM 5.0 stock

12-18-2009, 04:23 AM	#4
87gtVIC The Box..Think Inside It Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: NY Posts: 8,361	Yeah you have to remove that cover underneath the steering column. and it will be right there. As far as it being a fuse or not...I am not qualified to say. __________________ ~David 1987 Crown Vic. Mods: Mustang Headers into Mustang H-PIPE, B&M Shift Improver Kit, High Output Upper Stuff, 1/2" Intake Spacer, Mustang Valve Covers, Bumped Timing, 2009 Police Zip Tube and Air Box, K&N Air Filter, 3G Alternator, Under-Hood Fuse Box, Headlight Relays, Police Rear Sway Bar and Wagon Front Sway Bar.....and much much more. All around fun car to drive. BOX PARTS FOR SALE CLICK ME: NOS 1979 D.Side Clear lens, police gauges, electrical stuffs etc.... lets make a deal. Make some offers. LTB BOX PARTS : Chrome Pedals, Transmission Cooler, seat belt sleeves, 90/91 Relay housing/cover...Please Contact me

12-18-2009, 06:33 AM	#5
1990LTD driving like an old man since 2001 Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada Posts: 3,864	the fact that it will work a bit makes me think it's not a fuse but I've been wrong about a lot of other things. __________________ - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the mothership w/ 5.0 EFI - AOD & 3.08 rear (3G swap/GMQ dash/Stern blinker mod/"mini" starter/KYB cop shocks/2.25" catless duals with Magnaflows) - Daily. soon: H.O intake/throttle body/injectors/ecu/cobra cam, rear sway bar

12-18-2009, 12:06 PM	#6
91waggin It's my belief that my big balls should be held every night. Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 897	On my 91, the fuse for the dash lights also runs the markers at all four corners (tails and front marker lights). It's a 15 amp, IIRC. __________________ 91 Mercury Colony Park, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08 gears, 3g alt upgrade, CC819 springs, smog deleted.

12-18-2009, 03:42 PM	#7
86VickyLX The Cake Is A Lie! Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Westmont, New Jersey Posts: 4,662	If it was the fuse itself, then the lights would never come on. If the fuse was loose in the box, then it might cause intermittent light operation. __________________ "Vicky" 1986 Ford LTD Crown Victoria LX Modifications: Explorer 302 Fully Rebuilt R12-134a A/C Conversion, Custom Automatic Headlamps, Aftermarket Gauges, 3G Alternator Upgrade, Dual Exhaust, and Police front and rear sway bars!!

12-18-2009, 10:06 PM	#8
gadget73 small engines suck Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18,251	My bets are hedging on the headlight switch, or the connector to the headlight switch. They're known to melt and cause bad connections. __________________ 86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica). Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

12-19-2009, 08:05 AM	#10
85crownHPP milking the funky ball of tits from outer space Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: central VA Posts: 10,202	Brake lights have nothing to do with the headlight switch, any lights controlled by the headlight switch acting erratically could easily be a sign of it going bad. __________________ Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements 91 Crown Vic (ugly cream-puff) 85 LTD Crown Vic (HPP project) 88 P72 (new beater) I'm old gregg! 85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers Soon (maybe): big brakes, 3.55L, shift kit, possible explorer bits swap and MAF conversion

12-19-2009, 11:03 AM	#11
gadget73 small engines suck Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18,251	The headlight switch has 3 sections to it, one for headlamps, one for dash lamps, and one for parking lamps. The brake lights are totally independent. The P terminal (parking lamps) has a habit of melting down on the headlight switch. Pull it out, if the connection in the back corner is all burned looking, thats the problem. __________________ 86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica). Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

12-19-2009, 11:22 PM	#12
deepsleep Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 214	Okay wtf. The lights started working again... When I stopped by 7-11 and turned the car back on the dash lights didnt come on and then I turned the headlight nob off and on and it came on. Whats going on with this thing? __________________ 88 MGM 5.0 stock

12-19-2009, 11:53 PM	#13
91waggin It's my belief that my big balls should be held every night. Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 897	If the connections on the headlight switch aren't making an intermittent connection because they're burnt, it could be the circuit breaker in the headlight switch. Circuit breakers on these cars will reset themselves once the circuit cools down enough, and will blow once the circuit gets hot. That's why it'll act like an intermittent connection. __________________ 91 Mercury Colony Park, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08 gears, 3g alt upgrade, CC819 springs, smog deleted.

12-20-2009, 09:28 AM	#14
gadget73 small engines suck Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18,251	The switch or the connections are failing. Pull the switch out and have a look. If the connection is bad, it will make a lot of heat which could cause a serious problem. __________________ 86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica). Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

12-20-2009, 05:22 PM	#15
GM_Guy Stow It! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 437	This was the cause of my funky tail and dash lights; Attached Thumbnails

12-20-2009, 10:14 PM	#16
gadget73 small engines suck Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18,251	yep, thats the one. I'm actually beginning to think that modding the wiring harness to relay the parking lamps would be a good idea. __________________ 86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica). Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

01-26-2010, 04:56 PM	#18
gadget73 small engines suck Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 18,251	its plugged into the light switch, which you have to remove in order to get to that plug. Getting the switch out sucks, so brush up on your swear words. Theres a button on the side of the switch that you have to find with your fingers in order to pull the whole shaft out of the middle of the switch. Once thats off, unscrew the trim ring from behind the pullout knob. The switch then fishes down out of the dash in some magical contortionistic way until you can almost get a good look at it. I don't know what sadist designed that thing but they should be beaten. Theres no reason for it being that difficult to replace. __________________ 86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica). Drivetrain: 5.0 HO, Explorer cam, FMS 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley, SuperCoupe stall converter Suspension: Bridgestone Protenza G019 225/60/16 on LSC turbines, 1 3/16" wagon front bar, 1" PI rear bar, cargo coils, KYB GR-2 front shocks, F150 rear air shocks, big front brakes, ES poly front suspension bushings, 00 CVPI steering box, ES poly body mounts, rear disc brakes 91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC SE, triple black (Timewarp) - poly front bushings, KYB struts and shocks.

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