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Used T-5 Trans - What to look for?

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    Used T-5 Trans - What to look for?

    Going to look at a used T-5 (T5) and some pedals from a 1995 V6 Stang. Car it came out of had blown head gasket.

    Anything in particular to check when looking at it? It's cheap enough to warrant a rebuild if needed. But I would like to check it out as much as possible before purchasing. Is there an easy way to inspect inside, or at least take a peek?

    I am aware I'll need to swap input shafts to a fox style to use a fox bellhousing for a more favorable shifter location in a box. I think. Or this trans may end up in my 68. Not sure.g

    From what I understand, this one should still have the mechanical speedo provision, and a 0.73 overdrive. With the 3.35 first gear, 3.27 in the rear would be roughly equivalent to 3.55 in both first and fifth. Which saves me from a rear axle ratio change.
    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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    #2
    From what I've heard all T-5's have a weak third gear. EricTheCarGuy has a video on a T-5 rebuild from an '85 mustang so I'll link that...
    1985 LTD Crown Victoria - SOLD
    1988 Town Car Signature - Current Party Barge

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      #3
      There is differing information out there on the T-5 variants available. This All Ford Mustangs link says that the '94-'97 V-6 T-5 came with a .73 overdrive while this one from Modern Driveline says it came with a .68 which will require machining to accept a speedometer gear.

      At least it's not a Fox 4-cylinder transmission. Those are much weaker and have much shorter gears than their V-8 counterparts. They also have a larger input shaft bearing which makes it impossible to use the upgraded steel retainer.
      —John

      1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat
      1990 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (POTM March 2017 & May 2019 - gone, but not forgotten)
      1995 Mustang SVT Cobra coupe (cream puff)
      1966 Mustang coupe (restoration in-progress)

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        #4
        You can always rebuild it with the good gearset and even swap to the "Z" type 2.95 1st gear. Always hated the 3.35 1st anyhow, almost a useless gear. T5's are cheap as chips these days, I wouldn't even fuck with a v6 one honestly. Save a little cash and pick up a used GeForce or astro to avoid headache and heartache. You'll have a strong trans that's way smoother than a tremec.

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          #5
          I want to say there is something with the SN95 ones where the shifter is further back vs the Fox ones.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #6
            I've been looking for one for a year or so now and the fox V8 ones around here are $300 total IDK condition to $500 "rebuilt." I don't know about you guys, but I'd much rather rebuild it myself and know it's done right than have someone else's idea of rebuilt be less than mine and me in the hole for a $500 core.

            I watched about 12 minutes of the video so far. Will continue. Doesn't look like any easy way to look inside without a benchtop tear down.

            As far as the ratios go, I guess it's a wild guess on the OD. I'll know if I open it up and count teeth, if or when that happens.

            I have one in my 94 and the 3.35 first doesn't bother me really. I usually take off in second anyway even with 3.08 gears unless it's uphill. I'm not a picky except I like I row my own gears. I'm also more like a grandpa driver so I think the slightly weaker V6 will be fine for me. And like you said, I can always do a gear swap if needed. My 94 had the speedo gear provision and it uses it, even with an electric speedometer (like later boxes - it's only used for speed sensor).

            Got an appointment Sunday. He's got an HO top end also. Hmmm.
            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

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              #7
              Make a package deal of it! Put a good shifter with stops and power-shift it anyway! I can't drive a stick without wanting to really jam some gears. My next box may get a stick but it'll probably also be a coyote swap. Don't like the idea of a 6-speed though. Rather 5. 5 is a good number.

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                #8
                Well got a trans and pedals. Didn't get heads. Figured e7's weren't worth a possible rebuild. Dude had 40p's for $100 but passed on them too. Will wait for 40's or go aluminum. (Don't like the plug angle of the p's just in case they end up on the 68.).
                Problem 1: gear oil is inside.
                Problem 2: input shaft a bit loose.
                $80 for a core and pedals... I call that an okay deal.
                Gonna investigate a bit more later but for now we're calling it a core.
                I am feeling much better about the 1-2 slip in the 88 now. [emoji846]


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                GMN Box Panther History
                Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                Box Panther Production Numbers

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                  #9
                  Bellhousing? Guessing the v6 engine uses one that would be of no use to you...
                  ~David~

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                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                    #10
                    Yup gotta get a fox bellhousing unless I want the shifter popping out right at the front seat.

                    It spilled some gear lube in the back of my ranger. Rrrr. I put my groceries back there. But wasn't about to take the gas beast 74 on a 100 interstate mile trip.
                    1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                    GMN Box Panther History
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                      #11
                      $80 is a steal either way. These are all things I ended up doing with my T5, and it turned out well, but it was functional when i removed it to do the work:

                      Did you take the top cover off and inspect the synchros and gears? The shifter forks have plastic inserts, I would replace them, they crack and can make it shifting not as firm and eventually cause wear if they are missing. Front input shaft should have a slight amount of play, there's a spec for it, if it's out of spec you can change the shim to tighten it up. I'd also replace the tailshaft bushing if it has any wear at all (if it's used it probably does), along with the seal.

                      The fact that it has gear oil inside is not a good sign, someone didn't know what they were doing
                      Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 10-22-2017, 10:08 PM.
                      -Phil

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                      +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                      +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

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                        #12
                        so its the bellhouse that differs, not the actual trans? I've been told that the SN95 one actually works well in a Mark VII, it apparently puts the shifter in the stock location and it makes the driveshaft work.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                          #13
                          t5's are junk, 8.8's are even more junk.
                          2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                          2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                          2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                          1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by Brown_Muscle View Post
                            $80 is a steal either way. These are all things I ended up doing with my T5, and it turned out well, but it was functional when i removed it to do the work:

                            Did you take the top cover off and inspect the synchros and gears? The shifter forks have plastic inserts, I would replace them, they crack and can make it shifting not as firm and eventually cause wear if they are missing. Front input shaft should have a slight amount of play, there's a spec for it, if it's out of spec you can change the shim to tighten it up. I'd also replace the tailshaft bushing if it has any wear at all (if it's used it probably does), along with the seal.

                            The fact that it has gear oil inside is not a good sign, someone didn't know what they were doing
                            Thanks for the info, Phil. I plan to dig into it a bit tonight to look inside. I googled on the input shaft and found some info on that, so possibly it's not as bad as I thought. I do bet that gear oil didn't do the guts any favors.

                            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                            so its the bellhouse that differs, not the actual trans? I've been told that the SN95 one actually works well in a Mark VII, it apparently puts the shifter in the stock location and it makes the driveshaft work.
                            I *think* it's the bellhousing and input shaft a bit longer on the SN95. That's what I've read but we know how accurate google can be. I did verify with the service manual that this one should have the .73 OD. Also a 1.93 2nd vs a 1.99 for the V8. So we'll have a little gap between 1 and 2...

                            Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
                            t5's are junk, 8.8's are even more junk.
                            I like trash. It's cheap! As long as it's functional trash.
                            1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
                            1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

                            GMN Box Panther History
                            Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
                            Box Panther Production Numbers

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