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Eric's 1989 Yellow Grand Marquis

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    #46
    Not the order I wanted to do things in, but the rust hole caused by the vinyl top trim was driving me crazy, so I started the slicktop conversion already. I ordered 3m adhesive remover, but so far have not had a need for it as the glues seems to be scraping right off. I'm only about an hour into it and so far it is easier than I expected, which never happens.

    I also figured out why I am getting copious amounts of water in my trunk... Rust below the trunk lid and above the tail lights. I will need to patch up the rust hole and the trim holes so I will try and patch up that area as well.

    My original plan was to paint the top white so I did not have to worry about trying to match paint, but the rust hole is too low and I will need yellow for that area anyway. Not sure yet. I bought some cheap white rattle can spray paint today to protect the roof a little while I am stripping it and it will give me an idea of what it will look like.

    I have parts that should be here in the next few days and then I will get the oil and transmission fluid changed, and start on the tune up.
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      #47
      I was out removing the backseat and more interior pieces and outside trip today. I scraped all the glue off of the drivers side yesterday very quickly. It was cool out and the sun was setting... today I was out in the direct sunlight and the glue is gooey and sticky. I have seen others mention using a heat gun, but from my experience that seems counter productive, unless they meant just to rip the vinyl off, but that came off pretty easy as well.
      I have a small oxy acetylene torch, but not the correct hoses, so I ordered those yesterday. I can then start welding up the holes. I removed all of the sound deadening crap today so there will hopefully be no fires.
      As I work on this car, I like it more and more... For instance all the interior trim is attached with screws... I hate cars with 1000 different kinds of brittle plastic clips that I can never get back together correctly because half of them and the trim piece breaks, lol.
      Wrote a guy on Craigslist about doing the paint work. I have a compressor, but no paint guns and I have no water traps etc on my lines. I thought about it and I have very little desire to do more painting in the future so depending on the estimate I might pay to have that done and possibly save some time.
      Off to run errands... going to stop at a junkyard and see what they have.

      Eric

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        #48
        There are a bunch of brittle plastic clips, but mostly on the outside. Ford used the same clips on everything in the 80s, so the truck and Mustang market can usually yield up replacements if you need them. The interior clips are mostly just what hold on the door and some of the other panels on the side. They can be had too.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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          #49
          Considered buying a cheap MIG? They are easy to use and you stand a lot less chance of warping the metal.
          1990 Country Squire - weekend cruiser, next project
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - waiting in the wings

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

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            #50
            Originally posted by Tiggie View Post
            Considered buying a cheap MIG? They are easy to use and you stand a lot less chance of warping the metal.
            I will get one, but in the long run torch welding body panels is ideal and it is what I have. It is 3 ply sheetmetal where I need to patch the big rust hole, so it should be ok. The seams I need to fill are also extra stout. MIG definitely has its place though.

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              #51
              honestly for small holes like that you could likely lead them shut instead of torch welding. Bit less heat and no grinding if you do it right.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #52
                Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                honestly for small holes like that you could likely lead them shut instead of torch welding. Bit less heat and no grinding if you do it right.
                Maybe, but the rusty trim hole is bigger than a quarter and I have never worked with lead. I should have minimal warping if I go slow and what I do get should come right out with a bit of hammer and dolly work... I hope.

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                  #53
                  I stopped on the slicktop conversion until my torch hoses come in. Once they do, I'll do some practice pieces first before doing it for real on the car.
                  Stopped at a junkyard, but they would not let me go in the yard, so I just left. The main thing I want is a seat and it's silly to mess with it unless I can go and check it out first. I did find a self serve about 20 miles away that I will go check out in the next few weeks.
                  Got the oil changed today... according to the old windshield sticker, I was only a few hundred miles over 3000. The oil wasn't honey colored, but it was no where near black either.
                  Started on the transmission fluid and pan swap today. The fluid is definitely not bright red, but it does not smell burnt at all. I also verified that the new pan bolts are correct. I will finish this up tomorrow.
                  Not much I know, but I'll get there.

                  I also got the maybe parts car towed yesterday... (dead electrical system) Not messing with it too much just yet, I did order the electrical and vacuum troubleshooting manual.

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                    #54
                    Finishing up the tranny pan, filter, and fluid job.
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                    Also... a little worried about this at the bottom of my old pan, but was happy to find this:
                    " Ford uses it to plug the dipstick hole in the tranny before the dipstick gets installed. When the dipstick tube is installed, it falls on the bottom of the transmission pan. They all have one if the pan has never been off."
                    Other than that the pan had no sludge or metal of any kind in the pan... poured out the fluid and the pan looked like new. Going back out to try and drain the torque converter next.
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                      #55
                      Your that trannys first.
                      ~David~

                      My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                      My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                      Originally posted by ootdega
                      My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                      Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                      But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                      Originally posted by gadget73
                      my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                        #56
                        Yep... it was overdue.

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                          #57
                          A little off topic here, but thinking ahead a few years, I'd like to put my Kaiser body on a panther chassis... have not measured anything yet, but it should work.
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                            #58
                            Like that "eye brow" roofline
                            03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                            02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                            08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                            12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

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                              #59
                              Originally posted by Eric62 View Post
                              A little off topic here, but thinking ahead a few years, I'd like to put my Kaiser body on a panther chassis... have not measured anything yet, but it should work.
                              [ATTACH=CONFIG]51619[/ATTACH]
                              Have you checked out cold war motors on YouTube? He basically did a junk yard Kaiser restore. Really cool cars.

                              '78 LTD | '87 Grand Marquis | '89 Crown Vic (RIP) | '91 Grand Marquis (RIP) | '94 Town Car (RIP) | '97 Town Car (RIP)

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                                #60
                                Originally posted by slack View Post
                                Have you checked out cold war motors on YouTube? He basically did a junk yard Kaiser restore. Really cool cars.
                                I did see that... I believe it was the earlier kaiser, but I still enjoyed it although there vids move a little slow... but then again so do I.

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