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    Which coolant?

    Now that I am installing a new Aluminum Radiator........after I flush the engine, which coolant should I use??

    Prestone green 50/50 mix, or Prestone 50/50 mix Prime?

    Just want to use the proper coolant now that the copper/brass radiator is being removed.

    Thanks!

    #2
    whatever green stuff is on sale. Mix your own, or buy pre-mix as you prefer. I'm cheap so I use whichever works out to a better price per gallon. If you mix your own, distilled water can be had most places for cheap.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      I wouldn't bother with pre-mix myself. IIRC, you end up paying about twice as much. Here's the way I mix mine:
      1. mark the full level on the distilled water container
      2. pour out half the distilled water into an extra large measuring cup/bowl
      3. pour enough antifreeze into the distilled water container to bring it up to the full level mark
      4. pour the rest of the distilled water into the antifreeze container.

      Since pretty much everything meets minimum specs, I don't see the point of getting fancy.

      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

      Comment


        #4
        Green!!!
        Nick


        Past: 1967 Continental convertible, 1987 TC Cartier, 1996 TC DAE & Signature, 2002 LS V8, 2006 Zephyr, 2010 MKZ AWD, and many more.....
        Current: 2010 F-150 Platinum Supercrew 4x4
        Wanted: 1967 or 1969 Contnential sedan
        Only in my dreams: A Continental Mark II

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          #5
          Depends how much you can get each for. Go with the cheapest, easiest option!


          "Hope and dignity are two things NO ONE can take away from you - you have to relinquish them on your own" Miamibob

          "NEVER trade your passion for glory"!! Sal "the Bard" (Dear Old Dad!)

          "Cars are for driving - PERIOD! I DON'T TEXT, TWEET OR TWERK!!!!"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
            I wouldn't bother with pre-mix myself. IIRC, you end up paying about twice as much. Here's the way I mix mine:
            1. mark the full level on the distilled water container
            2. pour out half the distilled water into an extra large measuring cup/bowl
            3. pour enough antifreeze into the distilled water container to bring it up to the full level mark
            4. pour the rest of the distilled water into the antifreeze container.

            Since pretty much everything meets minimum specs, I don't see the point of getting fancy.
            I have occasionally seen 50/50 premix on sale for the same price as you could make it yourself for. Not normally the case, but it does happen sometimes. Always worth doing the math first. Normally though, I'd just dump a gallon of distilled and a gallon of antifreeze into a clean bucket, and then fill the radiator from that.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              Take care of your car. get some Zerex.


              1990 Colony Park, with HO swap.

              Previously:
              1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier.
              88 CVLX
              01 Marquis

              Comment


                #8
                X2 Gadget


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                Comment


                  #9
                  I use the 5 year instead of the 3 year. You would be surprised how fast 3 or even 5 years come around.
                  Just mark the radiator with the month and year the next coolant change is due.

                  The 5 year reduces required maintenance by 40%.
                  03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                  02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                  08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                  12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                    ... Normally though, I'd just dump a gallon of distilled and a gallon of antifreeze into a clean bucket, and then fill the radiator from that.
                    The effort-measuring part of my brain is thinking "Ya, that's convenient, but I still have to clean the bucket". Distilled water doesn't dirty my measuring bowl.

                    Incidentally, anyone wondering about funnels is probably surrounded by disposable funnels. Just cut the bottom off an empty plastic water bottle. If you're like me and prefer filtered water, just grab one from a recycling bin. While you're at it, you can grab another for your windshield washer fluid.

                    2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                    mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                      I use the 5 year instead of the 3 year. You would be surprised how fast 3 or even 5 years come around.
                      Just mark the radiator with the month and year the next coolant change is due.

                      The 5 year reduces required maintenance by 40%.
                      Instead of doing a complete flush every five years, I'm planning on doing a half-flush every couple of years using the 'cheap' (Canadian Tire brand) five-year stuff when it's on sale. My father once went to someone who put the orange stuff in even though the manual says not to use that stuff. After going through the hassle of flushing when I changed my rad before a particular winter, and then draining about half through the rad drain when doing my heater core after that winter, there was still lots of crud in the fluid. At $15-20 for two gallons of mixed fluid, I don't mind spending this every couple of years considering how convenient the rad drain is. This seems necessary for my particular problem, though I'm wondering how this would compare to a complete flush every five years when not dealing with such a problem.

                      2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                      mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                      Comment


                        #12
                        that orange deathcool shit is horrible. GM vehicles shouldn't even use that garbage.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I do like to run fresh clean water through the system until I get as much crud out as possible. That would be the difference between a full cleaning and just replacing some of the fluid periodically.

                          Don't get me wrong, replacing part of the fluid periodically is a heck load better than not doing anything.

                          Just FYI, when I do a complete cleaning I never get all the clean water out of the system. So this is what I do. Look up the total system capacity and add straight antifreeze for half the capacity, or a touch under half. Simply fill the the rest of the system with distilled water in whatever amount is necessary including the burping if necessary. You get about a 50/50 mix that way.

                          You can't get to a 50/50 mix with the premix after a complete flush unless you get all of the clean water out of the system before you add any fluid.
                          03 Marauder DPB, HS, 6disk, Organizer Mods> LED's in & Out, M&Z rear control arms, Oil deflector, U-Haul Trans Pan, Blue Fuzzy Dice
                          02 SL500 Silver Arrow
                          08 TC Signature Limited, HID's Mods>235/55-17 Z rated BFG G-Force Comp-2 A/S Plus, Addco 1" rear Sway, Posi Carrier, Compustar Remote Start, floor liners, trunk organizer, Two part Sun Visors, B&M Trans drain Plug, Winter=05 Mustang GT rims, Nokian Hakkapeliitta R-2 235/55-17
                          12 Escape Limited V6 AWD, 225/65R17 Vredestein Quatrac Pro, Winter 235/70-16 Conti Viking Contact7 Mods>Beamtech LED headlight bulbs, Husky floor liners

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by IPreferDIY View Post
                            ... After going through the hassle of flushing when I changed my rad before a particular winter, and then draining about half through the rad drain when doing my heater core after that winter, there was still lots of crud in the fluid. ...
                            I guess I should correct my brain fart, and I'll add some info while I'm at it. My heater core went in May 2011 and I bypassed it. I replaced my rad in September 2011 and my heater core in November 2011. At those times, I hadn't noticed any nasty red stuff in either the rad or the heater core, though my coolant overflow tank has always had a dark red coating (and I'll be replacing that soon). When I changed my intake manifold in May 2013, there was no nasty red stuff present, though there might have been a bit of discoloration. Even at that point though, there was still a lot of crud in the coolant. The color was off, and when I left it to sit, lots of stuff sank to the bottom of the container.

                            Originally posted by jaywish View Post
                            I do like to run fresh clean water through the system until I get as much crud out as possible. That would be the difference between a full cleaning and just replacing some of the fluid periodically.

                            Don't get me wrong, replacing part of the fluid periodically is a heck load better than not doing anything.

                            Just FYI, when I do a complete cleaning I never get all the clean water out of the system. So this is what I do. Look up the total system capacity and add straight antifreeze for half the capacity, or a touch under half. Simply fill the the rest of the system with distilled water in whatever amount is necessary including the burping if necessary. You get about a 50/50 mix that way.

                            You can't get to a 50/50 mix with the premix after a complete flush unless you get all of the clean water out of the system before you add any fluid.
                            I don't remember exactly what I did when I flushed mine while replacing my rad, but it seemed like overkill. It was probably a matter of using way more 50/50 than the actual capacity to be sure I got all the old stuff out.

                            Just so we're on the same page, when I did mine, I had the engine running with the upper rad hose draining into a plastic bag-like container. Is that the same flush method that you do? And when you do the water only part, are you using only distilled water at that point? Flushing with cheap distilled water and then adding straight antifreeze to bring it to 50/50 using this method certainly makes sense.
                            Last edited by IPreferDIY; 10-04-2014, 01:21 AM.

                            2000 Grand Marquis LS HPP, a hand-me-down in 2008 with 128,000 km; 175,000 km as of July 2014
                            mods: air filter box 'tuba', headlight relay harness, J-mod (around 186,350 km), 70mm throttle body, KYB Gas-A-Just shocks, aluminum driveshaft, ARA3 PCM

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I will however be adding one pint of No-Rosion to the mix, this stuff is the best........


                              http://www.google.com/url?url=http:/...viBiefUute557g

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