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    Harmonic balancer

    I am replacing my timing cover. Do I need a puller to get the harmonic balancer off and do i need to get one of those presses to get it back on, or can I use a BFH to get it on again?

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

    #2
    you will need a puller to get it off, i installed mine wihtou one. just put a little oil on the snout, line up the balencer and tap it on with a hammer, using a block of wood on the face of the balencer. just need to tap it on enough to get the bolt started, then use the bolt to crank it down.
    http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
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    R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

    http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

    Comment


      #3
      +1
      Exactly how I did mine and every GM one I ever had to install. Just don't use an impact gun or you risk stripping the threads out of the end of the crank. Also a good idea to take some emery cloth or scotchbrite or whatever and clean up the end of the crank and the inside of the balancer. While its open, if you weren't planning on doing it, I would suggest changing the timing chain.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        doin that and maybe a cam if I can afford it

        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah, I got him covered on a timing chain
          1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
          Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

          Comment


            #6
            exactly what I'm doing, my timing cover is leaking and I have an HO cam in my garage, so I am doing the cam swap along with new gaskets and a new timing chain. The only problem is my crank bolt is stuck :chainsaw:
            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

            Comment


              #7
              Aren't you supposed to pull the heads to do a cam swap?
              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Freshmeat
                Aren't you supposed to pull the heads to do a cam swap?
                No...........

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcar
                  The only problem is my crank bolt is stuck
                  If you didn't use a pipe on the end of your breaker bar, you weren't trying hard enough........

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Isnt there a way you can brace the breaker bar on the frame and bump the motor over???

                    I tried to do this on my '77... too bad when I did, the engine cranked but the harmonic balancer didnt turn it wasnt a timing chain problem after all... crankshaft had snapped.
                    Whoever said 5.0's could run for years and not knock with a spun bearing was right... I got 3 more years out of it after running it dry of oil... and I want exactly easy on it either.
                    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                    sigpic
                    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by 85crownHPP*
                      Whoever said 5.0's could run for years and not knock with a spun bearing was right.
                      You can not run for a few seconds with a spun bearing without a knock. You may have taken life out of your motor, but you did not run it with a spun bearing.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        hhmmm... well maybe it just took 3 years for it to let go

                        Im just glad it did whatever it did, and I didnt seize up the motor. I might not have the same passion for full size fords I do now if it didnt. If the 77 had died before I started tinkering with it, who know what i would be driving now!
                        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
                        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
                        sigpic
                        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Freshmeat
                          Aren't you supposed to pull the heads to do a cam swap?
                          No you just loosen the rocker arms and rotate them away, pull the pusrods and lifters and yank the old cam out

                          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You do have to yank the intake to get the lifters out but the heads can stay on.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I just bought $361 worth of a Craftsman air compressor, a 500 ft/lb 1/2" impact wrench, and a set of impact bits to get out this stupid crank bolt. The crank bolt will lose this time......... :chainsaw: OH and BTW I tried a 340ft/lb electric impact and it didn't do a thing
                              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                              Comment

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