"What does evreybody need?"

[DarkKnight]

HEAD!, har har. Umm Well i do belive i Figerd out what one of my prob's is.

I think my heads are bad. Reason why i say this is acording to my shop manual my snorkal is supposed to Suck air, not blow it. And well, it's blowing air ) Also i was asking a few mecanics about this. ( Not to sure how good they are ) And they where saying that bad heads can making a "Poping" sound but they like to call it pinging.


Any how here's my option's I can switch engine's,( 302 lopo out of another panther )/try and redo my head's or save up to get them done from a shop...


What do you guys think?


D.K.

[mrltd]

That's usually a timing issue. Like the chain being worn really bad and possibly jumped a tooth or two. Or just the spark timing being off enough to ignite while a valve is open.

[DarkKnight]

Maybey all of the above.... None the less i need engine work )... Whille im talking about engines, let me ask you guys this.


And i heard this tru my old mechanic.. ( Joe Dunlop if any of you know him )

But how hard would it be to get two 6 cyl's inside of a panther with one big ass trany? is it even possbile in a panther? And heck what about two V8's? in any panther? :-D Just a evil idea i got running tru my head the passed couple of mounths...

[gadget73]

Too long. Syncing engines in a crank to crank config like that is hard. It tends to not be terribly streetable and they aren't the best for durability. There are also alignment issues to consider. if the crank alignment isn't absolutely perfect, you're going to destroy the mains.

Take a vacuum reading and see what it says. I'd be far more inclined to think valve timing or bad timing chain than a head failure. The older cars had a timing gear set with plastic teeth. The plastic would wear, introducing a lot of slop in the timing chain, sometimes enough to make the chain jump. Usually the heads don't go bad suddenly and massively. I'd also say burnt valve, but usually thats on the exhaust side.If there are valve issues on a couple cylinders, you'll see that on the vacuum guage with the flutter and dance that it will do. You can actually see distinctly when it tries to fire on the cylinder with the valve problem because it will twitch. Burnt valves will also show up with a compression test, you'll have one or two cylinders with distinctly lower compression than the others. Same for damaged intake valves really.

[DarkKnight]

:-D Cool, looks like ima go buy a Guage :-D, Humm Sears im beten would have the most cost affective one, or ebay :-D

[mrltd]

What gadget said...gotta remember that the older cars used PLASTIC timing chain gears to be quieter. They wear, and the chain stretches. The cam timing ends up being way off. Which would cause backfiring and all kinds of fun stuff, since everything ends up a bit out of whack.

I'd take the distributor cap off, and put a breaker bar on the crankshaft and see how much play is in the timing chain.

[interceptor1985]

Can we 5.0 EFI guy's use timing gears instead of the chain? sorry about the thread jack just one question thats all.

[mrltd]

Yes....a few here are IIRC

[91 LTD]

Just a evil idea i got running tru my head the passed couple of mounths...

I dream of a massive turbo diesel.

[Lincolnmania]

the timing chain is probably jumped.........this would explain your previous timing issues

[Mercracer]

If your timing chain jumped, then your distributor would also be off from your crank. Rotate your motor until the rotor aligns with the #1 cyl wire on the cap and see where your TDC mark on the dampener is in relation to the pointer.

[DarkKnight]

If your timing chain jumped, then your distributor would also be off from your crank. Rotate your motor until the rotor aligns with the #1 cyl wire on the cap and see where your TDC mark on the dampener is in relation to the pointer.

Ok im lost here, how do i even do this? just turn the engine over? i know tdc is Top Dead Center. But how do i check this? Im just confused....

[Mercracer]

You can have someone bump the engine over for you if you do not have a remote start switch. When the rotor is close to the #1 cyl wire positon on the cap, you can use a 15/16 socket to turn the crank over to get it closer and look down at your timing pointer in relation to the dampener. If you are doing it alone, you can use a socket for all of the turning.

[mercenvy]

Take off the distributor cap, and you will see the rotor. It turns with the cam, and the crank(or it should if your timing sprocket/chain isn't worn). Using a breaker bar with the right size sprocket you can turn the motor over by hand. If you align the distributor rotor so that it is pointed at where the #1 spark plug wire would be if the cap was on(you can keep placing the cap on and off to check it until you get it in the right spot), then if you look at the timing mark on the crank pulley/dampener it should be pretty close to the timing needle.
So in other words, crankshaft turns camshaft which turns distributor rotor to fire the plugs. They all need to be timed pretty precisely or there will be problems. If you are getting the symptoms you describe I bet it's valve timing. These guys know what they're talking about with these newer smallblock Fords...listen to them.
Does Ford make a steel sprocket(s) for the timing chain?
The thought of plastic timing chain sprockets makes me cringe. If I were you I'd replace the plastic stuff with steel and get a new timing chain.

[mercenvy]

^^Edit to the above post, since the site KEEPS KICKING ME OFF, MAKING ME LOG IN AGAIN, AND DELETING MY POSTS. I really wish it would stop it is amazingly aggravating!

Using a breaker bar with the same size SOCKET, not sprocket as it says above in the third sentence. Just wanted to fix that.