Well, the numbers speak for themselves really.
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whats a good header gasket?
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Originally posted by gadget73On a stock or near stock motor without head work, a 1.5" is actually better than a 1 5/8". It'll make more power.
Yes, I am an oddball. I admit it.
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On a stock or near stock motor without head work, a 1.5" is actually better than a 1 5/8". It'll make more power.
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Originally posted by gadget73They are the cheapest shorty headers you can get, and you get what you pay for. Now that I've seen a few sets installed, if I was to buy a new set of headers, they would be BBK.
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Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcarI'm putting on the stock mustang shorties over my flowtech unequal lengths because they are rusting out and have leaks in the collectors.
Do you expect to see any flow differences between the stock Mustang shorties and the Flowtech's?Last edited by 89GrandMarquis; 12-14-2006, 09:19 AM.
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yes very true. Putting on those flowtech headers was a major pain in the ass!! It took me 5 hours to swap them out for the stock shorties!
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They are the cheapest shorty headers you can get, and you get what you pay for. Now that I've seen a few sets installed, if I was to buy a new set of headers, they would be BBK. They angled the exhaust tubes in such a way that you can actually get a socket with a flex joint on almost all of the bolts. Probably almost 1/2 of the bolts on my Hedmans require a wrench. It might not seem like a huge point, but after you put in 16 of those tiny little bolts, you'll see why that becomes a selling point.
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well I got mine used off ebay, but still I don't see why they should have a hole in the collector at all.
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Originally posted by 89LincolnTWNcarmy flowtech unequal lengths because they are rusting out and have leaks in the collectors
So, do I correctly interpret that you think that Flowtech's are CRAP?
Anybody else have bad experiences with Flowtech's? I'm wondering if they are consistently poor, or you just got a bad set . . . ?
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the factory doesnt use gaskets on iron manifolds or on the stock shorty headers. Use a wire wheel on a drill or some sort of abrasive pad on a dril and clean the junk off both the head and header sealing surface, then bolt them up..... no gasket required.
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I'm using the white cheapo Mr.Gaskets. Work fine if the bolts stay in. Locktite or good locking header bolts are the key... (Like stock header bolts)
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If the mounting surfaces are still nice on the heads and stock HO headers then you tecnically don't need to run gaskets since they originally didn't come with gaskets.
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Originally posted by FreshmeatMr Gasket Ultra-Seal for the win. Only header gaskets that actually sealed for me.
The key is to install everything, torque 'em down, then let the engine IDLE up to temperature... then let it cool down ENTIRELY and torque 'em again. You'd be surprised how much more you can turn the bolts after they've heated up and cooled down. Do it once and you should be good.
I just took a stock bolt and went to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 allen head bolts. They worked really well. I want to say they're 3/8-16, but don't hold me to that.
Im using the Percy's Dead soft aluminum gaskets, work good, but are a bitch to install with my headers. Also cost $35 for the pair.
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Mr Gasket Ultra-Seal for the win. Only header gaskets that actually sealed for me.
The key is to install everything, torque 'em down, then let the engine IDLE up to temperature... then let it cool down ENTIRELY and torque 'em again. You'd be surprised how much more you can turn the bolts after they've heated up and cooled down. Do it once and you should be good.
I just took a stock bolt and went to the hardware store and picked up some grade 8 allen head bolts. They worked really well. I want to say they're 3/8-16, but don't hold me to that.
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i have some Mr gasket ones, but they are white and have writing on them. I don't think they are the top of the line ones.
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