Ok heres one for you Blueprinters...

[Bildo]

ring end gap is normally around .004 per inch of bore, less than that and u risk breaking rings.

[Mercracer]

If you have the finances, then it is a good choice. It is hard to beat the tunability of a good EFI system.
If you can't build your longblock and build your suspension, axle and tranny because all of your money is in your DFI, then it is not a good option.

[RugerP97DC]

I was actually looking at a DFI setup. Digital Fuel Injection.

[Mercracer]

Ford made some pretty crappy blocks in the 70's and early 80's so the fear of going more than .030 over on these blocks is probably justified. Since there is no reason to use a block that is older than 1986, I would not be afraid to take a 302 to .060 over. Although. because of the low cost and high availability of roller blocks, there is no reason to take one of these blocks more than .030 over.
GT-40X heads are only a good option if you can get them cheap. Once you are looking at heads over $1100, the X heads are not such a good deal.
With the Roush heads, unless you get them cheap also, there is no good reason to have the weight of iron heads when you can get aluminum.
The bottom line with EFI is still.....unless you have the large amount of extra money to spend, go with a carb setup.

[Blaze86Vic]

Yeah, I agree with TommyN. 60 over is pretty big for the 302 blocks. Since you dont want a stroker (which is good cuz they wear quicker), you should get a 351windsor. So you get more displacment, and you can still use the same GT40 heads and stuff. Oh, and I would suggest a set of Roush 200 heads, they have better performance capability and they are cast iron, so you don't have to worry about warping heads as much. Even better, because they're cast iron and that makes the dragster cry, they sell for like $1100 NEW assembled (with springs, valves, retainers). Yeah carb is simpler and cheaper. But you get better power from the same motor if its EFI. If you don't have the ability to flash your computer and apply you own parameters, then you'll probobly find that it takes lots of money to get it setup right. Still there aint nothin' like getting in your car on a cold, hot, dry, wet day and it starts perfect ever damn time.

[gadget73]

Clevite bearings aren't pricey, so I'd go for them. If you get a rebuild kit from NAPA thats what you get anyway. I never priced stock ones but I think all told every bearing in my engine ran me maybe $100, and thats mains, rods and cam bearings. I know the cam bearing set was only $15.

[TommyN]

0.060" overbore is a pretty big overbore for a 302. I sold a stock bore 1978 302 from a Granada to my buddy, who had it bored .030" and had TRW forged slugs installed. The #5 bore ended up developing a vertical crack within a few thousand miles. Looks like that block could not even take a .030" overbore.

Tom

[RugerP97DC]

GT-40X 58cc 1.94/1.54 valves
Ford P/N M-6049-X305

That is if I can get them a a reasonable price!!!
Least I have been able to find is 1200!
At least that is for a set of heads!

The pistons I was lookign at are not right for those heads. too much compression. All I want is 10:1 to 10.25:1.

On the bearings I just wonderd if the Clevite77's are worth it or not. I have never used them.

[Mercracer]

Re: Ok heres one for you Blueprinters...

In a 302 that has been bored .060 over but not stroked, using high slilica forged aluminum free- floating pistons, what type of rings and end gap would you run?
Also is the extra expense justified for using the Cleveite 77 bearings over stock or aftermarket hp types?

Also running an Edlebrock 7122 cam would the useage of MPFI or carb be better?

Run gapless rings, run the Clevite bearings, get out your checkbook and prepare to spend a chunk to run fuel injection or keep it simple and run a carb.
Even an HO computer would need an Extender or other electronics to defeat the factory rev limiter for that cam which makes runs over 6200RPM. You would definitely need a chip if you had Speed Density, and probably need one even with Mass Air.
Why would you run a flat tappet cam on a 302? 1986+ blocks are almost free. You could then step up to a TFS Stage II cam if you wanted to have a hot engine. I am assuming that you would be getting a set of pistons with decent eyebrows, not just a cheap set of factory replacement style forged.
What are you going to run for heads?

[phayzer5]

I haven't studied enough specifics to know even stock endgap, let alone aftermarket pistons and over-boring

I would get the best bearings and such I could afford. They aren't an easily replaceable part (i.e complete engine tear-down). I would only want to install the bearings once, with the best ones avaliable.

The cam would probably do better in an EFI engine since its roller and has a good lobe center to keep the vac from jumping around.

[RugerP97DC]

In a 302 that has been bored .060 over but not stroked, using high slilica forged aluminum free- floating pistons, what type of rings and end gap would you run?

Also is the extra expense justified for using the Cleveite 77 bearings over stock or aftermarket hp types?

Also running an Edlebrock 7122 cam would the useage of MPFI or carb be better?

:coocoo: