Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Idle and cruise control probs

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • gadget73
    replied
    EGR itself is good then, but the EVP solenoid is shot or something. That should be over on the fenderwell. The filter for those also gets clogged, which might be the problem.

    No idea how to test that VSS sensor. I'm sure its possible somehow tho.

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    Hey ok well idle problem fixed... (Credit to Jason91gm) He pulled the vaccum line off the EGR valve and it now idles perfectly again.


    But what about the cruise control? It's still acting up. The VSS connection looks fine. Is there a way I can test the sensor? Like maybe the output voltage from the VSS to wherever it goes or what?

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    ouch.... $75 for a new egr valve. Haven't gotten it yet though. I did push the rod in and out and it wasn't jammed. I did clean it all out with carb cleaner. Of course it made no difference.

    Leave a comment:


  • gadget73
    replied
    Very likely stuck egr valve. Pull it and see if its frozen up or jammed with carbon.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason91GM
    replied
    haha you know i like your wagon. its neato. but you just wait til the GMGT conversion is complete, with the HO, bitch.

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied

    Leave a comment:


  • Jason91GM
    replied
    #34?!??!??!?! OMG send that rust-wagon to Copher's

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    OKIE DOKIE NOW we're getting somewhere... never was able to pull it myself. Ended up at AZ again and they finally did it after 20 mins of waiting.

    It's a code 34.

    34 EVP - (R) EGR did not respond properly during test - EVP
    EVR - (O, R, M) EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
    PFE - (O, R, M) PFE sensor is/was out of range - PFE


    So this would be the EGR valve? If it is, anyone care to let me know where it is so I can put off buying the $25 haynes manual another few days? lol

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_
    replied
    like i said, all depends on who you talk to, or when you talk to them.

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    Alright this time I let it run for atleast a minute and the CEL never game on. With the engine off but key in ON position, the CEL stayed on solid and never blinked. I left it on for atleast a minute. oh yeah, and I bypassed the plugs and hard wired the two wires together so I KNOW they're getting signal.

    Funny thing... I just called the AZ I went to 5 mins ago and asked if they did OBD1 and the same lady said "The guy that can do it comes in at 2". I almost fucking smacked her through the phone. Why couldn't she have told me that when I walked in?

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_
    replied
    all depends on who you talk at vato zone. call them and inform them that if they don't check your codes, you'll be taking your business(and with an old box theres usually alot of business ) and you'll go to the competition. they're full of shit when they say they don't do odb1. obd2 is merely more convenient for them since the connector is in the same spot on every car usually.

    as to the cel, mine was solid for about 1/2 a minute, probably less and then it started flashing at me. with the engine running it did the same thing. try wiggling the paper clip around. i did run into that problem. the paper clip was actually not in far enough,lol

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    Well that sucks... I went to advance auto AND autozone and both said they don't do OBD1. I did the code checking my self again to double check. With the engine off but the key in the ON position, the CE light stays on solid. With the engine running, the CE light never comes on.

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    And the car has to be ON and running? Or just the key in the ON position?

    Leave a comment:


  • Paul_
    replied
    yup, those be the ones. the paperclip should go in the top right contact point, while the other end goes right into the single plug

    Leave a comment:


  • qazvick
    replied
    OK I'm not sure if these are it. They match the description of the plugs, but they're weren't near the brake booster. They were right behind the coolant overflow tank. Here's a pic tell me if these are those plugs. I DID put a jumper wire from the one plug to the top right slot in the other plug. Is this the correct way to do it? I did it that way and check engine light just stayed on solid.

    Also I checked VSS (I'm assuming it's the plug on top of the speedo cable) and it looked all clean inside, I put the plug back in with some added pressure to make sure it's got a connection. No difference.

    I'm going to go to AZ and see if they can pull the codes.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X