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    Camshaft?

    Well, I just found out my parents are getting divorced after 23 years of marriage, and to cope, I need to spend some money on my car. I am thinking of a camshaft. The only problem is, which one do I get?

    Should I get one? What duration/lift do you guys suggest? Do I need to get any other valvetrain componants for it to work right? What about the RPM range, am I looking for something between 1,000-5,200 RPM, or what?

    Help me!!!!!!!!! I am on a budget, so no $300 cams for me. I was looking at Crane Cams & Comp Cams street cams in my newest Summit mag. Anyway, can anyone suggest anything to me?
    Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
    Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

    #2
    Id get an RV cam
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

    Comment


      #3
      stay under .500 lift jon

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #4
        get heads instead

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          #5
          Originally posted by Pimp Hard Or Bust
          get head instead
          Save a seal, club a liberal.

          Comment


            #6
            his heads are better than e6's........they are either e5's or d8's

            1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
            2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
            1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
            1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
            2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
            1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

            please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

            Comment


              #7
              I have no idea what heads I got. Isn't there a place on the heads I can look? Hopefully somewhere it won't be difficult to see?
              Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
              Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

              Comment


                #8
                isn't the casting # or something on the firewall end of the heads?
                Save a seal, club a liberal.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Well, I have crawled all over this thing, and I do not see any casting #'s anywhere, of any kind. I used a mirror and flashlight to see behind the heads next to the firewall, there is nothing there that I could see. The only thing that is the "R" cast into the right head at the front. As for the #'s I haven't a clue.
                  Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                  Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    agreed.... an RV/truck cam would be best, similar to the one Justin got for his car. check summit, they have some Summit brand kits at a good price.
                    I would recommend doing a valve spring swap at minimum.

                    Scott is correct, you want to stay under .500" of lift to avoid any possible piston/valve contact.
                    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ive got an X303 cam laying around, in case you want to break vlave springs and not idle worth shit.
                      http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
                      http://secondhandradio.com/

                      R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                      http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                      Comment


                        #12
                        He doesnt have a hyd roller block and the X cam has too much lift for the pistons he is running.
                        2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                        89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                        88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                        I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by grandpaslincoln
                          Well, I have crawled all over this thing, and I do not see any casting #'s anywhere, of any kind. I used a mirror and flashlight to see behind the heads next to the firewall, there is nothing there that I could see. The only thing that is the "R" cast into the right head at the front. As for the #'s I haven't a clue.
                          The casting number is on the bottom of the head between the intake ports. You can't see it unless the intake is off, and even then you would need a mirror and light.

                          Tom

                          Comment


                            #14
                            What a convenient place to put casting numbers. Gotta love Fords man.

                            So truck cam eh? Summit mag doesn't seem to have summit camshafts of the truck variety listed. Perhaps teh website will reveal some prospects???????
                            Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                            Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I can't seem to think straight today, does my engine have hydraulic lifters, or are they solid?
                              Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                              Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                              Comment

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