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    #1

    Update on HO conversion

    I got my new lower intake today so I started putting the whole thing back together. I got really far, working from 3:30-11:00 :drug: Everything went back together well, almost all the vacuum lines are hooked up. Now I'm just waiting to get my Throttle body and newly bored out EGR back from Scott and It'll be done.



    A pic of the pristine clean lower intake ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

    Are those mustang shorties ^^^^^^^^ :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
    I REALLY HOPE THE INJECTORS DON'T LEAK AND WORK AS THEY SHOULD
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.
    Tags: None
    #2
    Lookin good!!!

    Comment

      #3
      i always wondered about the intake manafold for doing the H.O. conversion, i take it you can set it up to face the same direction just by turning it around without any other mods? cuz i wanna do the same thing but i noticed on the H.O. 302's the throttlebody is facing the passenger side? can i just face it towards the driverside and it'll work fine?

      Nick

      Comment

        #4
        Nick, I was actually thinking the same, and having pulled my upper manifold several times I found that except for rerouting the hoses and changong the cables it should work just fine. When I get to it I'm planning on directly using the stock Mark VII cables for the accelerator, tranny and cruise, the only problem I envision would be with swapping the cruise control cables as one side of them is hidden inside the vacuum unit. Blaze here has an explorer motor with the intake on the passanger side, man how did you hook up the cruise cable?

        Comment

          #5
          I don't have an explorer motor. I have the same egnine that would normaly be in a 94-95 Mustang GT. The difference is obvious to see. And the reason that we (was my Dad's car at that time) did not tunr it arounf was because it has that bend in it. And we didn't want to swap shit around because it was a crate engine, and came with a warranty, so doing that would void the Ford warranty.

          Stock


          My engine


          Comment

            #6
            As for the cruise cable, we just extended it a little bit to reach the TB. Same with the TV cable.

            Comment

              #7
              The pictures aren't working, Blaze.

              I plan to keep the same set-up like Blaze is running as far as the throttle body is concerned, but I have an Explorer P motor. I think the cruise and throttle cables from the 1994 TC I pulled will be long enough. If not, I'll be digging around for some Explorer cables.
              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

              Comment

                #8
                I dont understand.... why did you have to wait for a new lower intake?
                HO and non-HO intakes are the same. only the HO upper intake and throttle body are different.
                2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006

                I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                Comment

                  #9
                  the new lower has a little porting on it
                  1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    porting .... bahh

                    do it right, either get a Tmoss ported lower http://www.tmossporting.com/

                    or get a Holley system max I lower.

                    2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                    89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                    88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006

                    I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Freshmeat
                      The pictures aren't working, Blaze.
                      They are working for me....anyone else having problems seeing them?

                      Comment

                        #12
                        looks good mang
                        Originally posted by GMGT
                        you mangwhore


                        resident sniper expert

                        Comment

                          #13
                          They're working now, Blaze. Not sure what was wrong.

                          How did you extend your cables to run pass-side TB?
                          2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                          1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                          1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Well, I just went out and took a look, me thinks the Throttel and Cruise cables are stock. (been so long I can't remember) The TV cable is extended by using a small bolt and a nut. Drill a whole through the bolt close to the head. Then put a washer on it and a nut. Run two cables though the whole and tighten the bolt, this will join the two solid.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              I'd probably just use Mark VII TV cables, saves the worry of a connector.

                              You could spin the intake, provided you extend the wiring for the IAC and TPS sensors, but my concern would be the proximity of the AC drier and lines. You'd have a heck of a time getting an air cleaner connection on there, and the battery is in the way of a filter. It would need to be relocated, probably to where the washer/overflow is now. Alternates for that system would be a 90s panther washer bottle and a 1990 TC fan shroud, which has the bottle attached to the side of the fan shroud. Would need to check for battery clearance if the late style washer bottle was installed tho, I dunno if it would be in the way. if it is, I'm sure some vehicle has a bottle shaped/mounted in such a way that you could put it up behind the header panel or up on the fender somewher near the soup can. The ECM relays on the fender would need to be moved over to clear a battery, and the wiring for the electrical system would either
                              1) need to be completely re-arranged to reach the other fender
                              or
                              2) longass battery cable running either around the firewall or behind the header panel over to the stock start relay location to tie into the electrical system. This is probably a better idea, certainly loads easier and could be done without cutting apart and/or splicing a lot of wiring. Just need a hunk of 2 ga cable to make it over to the relay.
                              Ground would be a piece of cake, just bolt it somewhere on the block on the opposite side of the motor. No big deal.

                              Personally, I like the intake facing the stock way for simplicity. Saves the need to re-arrange a bunch of systems. Given the right mix of parts, you can re-arrange it and have it look nice and tidy, but its not something you can just toss together without planning it out and have it not look like someone tossed it together without planning it out.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                              Comment

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