Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

alright guys anyone who can explain how to install a traction lock

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    alright guys anyone who can explain how to install a traction lock

    i m considering buy mrtld's traction lock but idont know how to install any suggestions
    sigpic
    1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

    #2
    its really hard. I don't know that much about it but I know its a pain in the ass. there is valve lash to set, you have to use special paint and rotate the gears to check if they are meshing properly, you have to pull out the axels (another big PITA). Its better just to take out the whole rear axel and get a shop to do it.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    Comment


      #3
      Fairly straightforward.


      1Remove cover
      2Remove pin bolt
      3Remove pin
      4Remove C-clips
      5Pull axles out
      6Remove bearing caps
      7Remover carrier
      8Remove ring gear from carrier
      9Install ring gear on traction lock carrier
      10. Do steps 6-2 and check for lash and wear pattern. Adjust as needed.
      11.Install cover
      12. Fill with fluid
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

      Comment


        #4
        straightforward eh? don't you have to take off the rear wheels and the suspension and the brakes to get the axels out??
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          #5
          Um, no.

          I would suggest getting a mechanic to do it. I have yet to do one myself. I always get a friend to do it.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment


            #6
            well I definately don't know anything about rear gears...... how do you adjust valve lash, is there infinite positions or is it like one way and not another?
            1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

            Comment


              #7
              how much do you think that would run me to get it done by a mechanic
              sigpic
              1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

              Comment


                #8
                i would expect 200-300
                1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Installing a Trak Lok is not hard - but you had better know what you are doing. Here are two links from google:

                  This Forum is for discussion of EEC-related subjects.


                  With all the questions recently like 'can I install my own gears?' or 'can I swap to an open carrier from a LSD unit?' I figured it was appropriate time to bring this up for everyone to benefit from. I made this post in a thread a while back, in effort to enlighten the thread on what is...


                  I've got another link at home - and I'll add it later. Is the best one, and is a magazine article with lots of pictures.


                  HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    OK - found the other article:



                    And another:



                    All of these articles give you an insight into what is required. For me, the biggest pain is the pinion depth, since you have to have the bearings pushed off/on to change the shims.

                    If you are certain that you aren't going to change the gears at the same time, consider this:



                    Price is high though!!!!!

                    I'd already have a powertrax if I weren't also going to change the gear set. The only reason that I was considering a powertrax was that it could be installed without removing the differential. That makes it a real do it yourself job. So the question would be - do you want to pay someone to put in a Trak Lok, or use that labor money and put in a powertrax?

                    Don't get me wrong - Trak Loks are just fine. I had bought a Trak Lok, was waiting to buy some 3.55's when I up and decided to buy my 89 Grand Marq (I had a 89 Crown Vic at the time). The Grand Marq already had a Trak Lok in it from the factory.


                    HO with Explorer Cam, Electric Fan, Cop Sway Bars, Dual exhaust with no mufflers, 15x7" American Racing; 215/70R15's front, 255/60R15's rear, 3.55's with Trak-Lok.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      89 just to let you know it's not valve lash, it's back lash.

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X