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    code 44

    Code 44: "Problems in Thermactor Air Control system". "Check Engine" light in the '88 GM has been flickering the past few days. Ran the test and got Code 44. She's running fine, yet. Is this just an excuse to rip out the emissions junk? Anyone know which sensor (and where) would be the cause of the code?

    #2
    Is the check engine light in an '88 the same as the older ones: either car is hot or low oil pressure?

    My sources indicate code 44 is: Secondary air injection system inopterative, right side.

    As for the sensor that tell the computer to throw that code, I don't know. Maybe something on the right side?
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      #3
      The coolant temp gauge has been where it should be. I have been smelling a hot metal smell the past couple of weeks after the car has been running a while.

      Hmm, the oil pressure gauge has also been showing a really low oil pressure. Maybe the gauge and sender are working properly.

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        #4
        Its typical. 302s with miles often have low/no oil pressure. Since really the only way to fix it is to rebuild the bottom end with new bearings, I'd just throw 10-40 in it and unplug the warning light. Eventually it'll stop flickering and just glow steady. Its gonna start knocking eventually too. I wouldn't worry too much about it since Ford smallblocks never seem to really blow up in a horrible way. They just make noise and carry on for thousands and thousands of miles.


        I think a code 44 has something to do with the diverter valve assembly. My car throws two codes related to that system, 44 and something else. It did that when the smog controls were there, and still does it now that they're gone. No idea why but I wouldn't worry too much about it. The engine light in an 88 should be oil pressure and temp only. I think the real ECM check engine light showed up in 1990 or 91.
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          #5
          Which sensor gives the signal for low oil pressure for the check engine light? I pulled the sensor by the oil filter and placed my oil pressure sending unit there. The wire for the factory sensor is just hanging there. The temp guage has been where it should be.

          Btw, the other code didn't happen to be "74", did it? That's what I got along with the "44". 74: Brake on/off switch action not detected during test.

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            #6
            Well, if teh wire is unplugged, the light shouldn't be coming on at all, unless it has a bare spot in the insulation and it's touching metal sometimes, causing the light to flicker.
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              #7
              Yeah, its the one next to the oil filter. What Jon said about it shorting. It has to go to ground to make the circuit trip.

              Not sure how to fix the 44, my car had it when the emissions stuff was intact, and still has it with it gone. *shrug*. Someday when I have time I plan to remove the control solenoids totally, or at least the vacuum plumbing to them since its all capped off anyway.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #8
                Well, now the light was off when I ran the car yesterday. I'm not going to worry about it. My oil pres. gauge still isn't working, either. I'll let you guys know if I find anything.

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                  #9
                  code 44 is set by the Tab & Tad solenoid


                  check the vaccum hoses and electrical connections, otherwise one of the valves is faulty.
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                    #10
                    Originally posted by 88grandmarq
                    code 44 is set by the Tab & Tad solenoid
                    http://www.crownvicmuscle.com/eric_s...llustrated.jpg

                    check the vaccum hoses and electrical connections, otherwise one of the valves is faulty.
                    Cool. Thanks, man.

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                      #11
                      Both of those solenoids froze up on my stang. It was pretty obvious they were toast, the plastic cracked and expanded and they were permanantly shut. Unplugging the harness connectors did clear the codes, but if you tried to do a KOER test it would fail.

                      I ended up replacing the soleniods for the guy that bought the stang about $50 for the pair.

                      The Ford Dealer may want the calibration# from the emmissions sticker I knew mine A9L baby
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