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    Stupid EGR

    So my wagon is losing power and overheating under load. The ECC tester I have gives me the code 34 in all three of the tests. Should I just scrap the whole egr system or should I take the time to repair it. Only reason I'm thinking about keeping it is because I'll be towing and I always thought it helped keep head temperatures down. I don't have to take any emission tests at all.
    I could go both ways here so lets hear what you guys think and have experienced.

    #2
    The 85, or the 89??

    EFI doesnt run right without EGR, I know that...
    1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
    Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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      #3
      I'd fix it, but also check the cats...those might be getting clogged and causing issues.
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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        #4
        Which is a great reason to :hacksaw: em off!
        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

        Comment


          #5
          This is for the '89, ok so I should fix it if the EFI needs it but, if I cut the cats off will the egr still operate properly?

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            #6
            The cats don't really have anything to do with the EGR, it will work fine without cats.
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #7
              cut em off! cut em off!
              1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
              Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

              Comment


                #8
                Ok, as it stands right now, looks like I'm gonna repair the EGR, find a bigger radiator and higher flowing water pump, and have the guys at the local muffler shop cut the cats off and just connect everything.
                For right now I'll just have to keep the exhaust as is and run no cats into the stock single exhaust set-up. Later this summer perhaps I'll start looking for an off road h pipe setup. I wonder if the muffler shop will do that for me, it might be against their policies.
                Anyone know of any higher flowing water pumps that will bolt on?? I've been told radiator.com is a place to get a larger rad.

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                  #9
                  Some muffler shops won't cut the cats off the car since it came with cataytics standard from the factory and it may be part of the visual inspection. Check with your state laws and since you said you don't have emission laws, there are other solutions. :evil:

                  If you have a decent set of tools and some time, you can gut the cats yourself. It will hold over well until you have the $$$ to redo the exhaust system if you plan on it and only will be kinda loud with single exhaust. The y-pipe with cats is a factory bolt on kit, so you can remove the entire y-pipe without having to cut it apart. A broom stick handle, a pipe, or a large flathead screw driver will work well for gutting the cats.

                  If you upgrade to dual exhaust in the future, buy a mustang off road h-pipe and attach two of your old cataytic shells onto the off-road pipe to mock up some "fake cataytics" for visual inspection. This is only if you don't have emissions testing and if you can get away with it. Also, you need shorty headers to work with a mustang h-pipe, along with s10 midpipes, and 2.25 or bigger mufflers and tailpipes.
                  Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
                  2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.

                  Associated Panthers:
                  Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
                  Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
                  http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Also, for the egr valve, sometimes you will still get code 34 even after you have replaced the egr valve, vacumm lines, etc. I would take the egr valve off, clean it and the egr passages in the upper intake, and check the vacumm lines. Sometimes just cleaning it will make any problems with the egr disappear and alot of carbon tends to build up in it and in the upper intake. Just don't clean the rubber diaphram in the egr valve and use Air intake/tb cleaner, otherwise you'll end up needing a new egr valve like I did.
                    Current rides - 1991 Ford Thunderbird 3.8 v6 (gas saver/DD) - New Heads/Headgaskets with ARP studs, Air Silencer Delete, 70mm MAF, Plasti-dipped Matte Black with a Silver Metalflake Overlay, Muffler Delete, some LED's, 30.233 MPG for high MPG average!
                    2006 Jeep Wrangler 4WD (fun vehicle/backup DD) - 4.0/6spd - too many mods to list.

                    Associated Panthers:
                    Father's 1994 Ford Crown Victoria - Stock, 45,000 miles.
                    Sold in 2007 - 1987 Mercury Grand Marquis LS "Grandpa Special" 2 door.
                    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2128327

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GT
                      The 85, or the 89??

                      EFI doesnt run right without EGR, I know that...

                      Go Figure......My 5.0 actually runs stronger now with the egr deleted (sensor still conneted),than it did with the egr system fully functional.Also no more nasty carbon buildup in the upper intake.My 2 cents,Delete it,plug the green vac line,and leave the egr sensor still connected,the ecm will think the egr is allways closed and won't start acting funny,it worked on my '87.Even if you gain nothing from the delete,the engine internals will stay a little cleaner due to less carbon buildup.We have no emissions tests here for anything pre-96,so I have done away with all the emissions related useless bullshit on my box.

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                        #12
                        I think you may be running lean.
                        1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
                        Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

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                          #13
                          My plugs indicate the mixture is fine.

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                            #14
                            I'm about to order a new egr valve, egr position sensor, pcv valve, and i want to get a new egr plate. Can I use a 70mm for a mustang, i know it won't gain any HP, but in the future I'll want it when I start doing the HO swap.

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                              #15
                              Stock Mustang EGR spacer has a diameter of 60mm, FYI.

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