Originally posted by 87mefull
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Stupid EGR
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The power gain from deleting the egr was barely noticable at all.The only noticable difference came from blocking the exhaust flow into the upper intake.Now the upper intake stays much cooler during long hard periods of highway driving,and dos'ent heat the intake charge as much.I'm sure you know the colder the air you can get into the engine the more power it will make.She still idles smooth and is definatly not running rich,judging from the condition of the spark plugs the mixture is fine.Anyway,I became fed up with the total bullshit hassle of emission testing long ago and was determined to do away with all the emissions equipment once the new emissions law passed here in 'Nov 05.
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I did that, didn't work for me. I plugged the line and left a brand new sensor connected because my egr valve failed. I think there might have been a slight power gain only because the car was running rich without it, but I barely noticed it. The car had trouble idling until I fixed it properly though. My car is bone stock though which is why it needs the egr valve compared to a worked 302 or HO motor. I known plenty of people that have deleted the egr valve on a stock HO motor in a 87-93 stang with little to no effects, but they removed all emissions equipment along with it (smog pump, plugged air tube lines into the cats, etc).Originally posted by Custom87Go Figure......My 5.0 actually runs stronger now with the egr deleted (sensor still conneted),than it did with the egr system fully functional.Also no more nasty carbon buildup in the upper intake.My 2 cents,Delete it,plug the green vac line,and leave the egr sensor still connected,the ecm will think the egr is allways closed and won't start acting funny,it worked on my '87.Even if you gain nothing from the delete,the engine internals will stay a little cleaner due to less carbon buildup.We have no emissions tests here for anything pre-96,so I have done away with all the emissions related useless bullshit on my box.
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Guest repliedStock Mustang EGR spacer has a diameter of 60mm, FYI.
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I'm about to order a new egr valve, egr position sensor, pcv valve, and i want to get a new egr plate. Can I use a 70mm for a mustang, i know it won't gain any HP, but in the future I'll want it when I start doing the HO swap.
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Originally posted by Grand_Marquis_GTThe 85, or the 89??
EFI doesnt run right without EGR, I know that...
Go Figure......My 5.0 actually runs stronger now with the egr deleted (sensor still conneted),than it did with the egr system fully functional.Also no more nasty carbon buildup in the upper intake.My 2 cents,Delete it,plug the green vac line,and leave the egr sensor still connected,the ecm will think the egr is allways closed and won't start acting funny,it worked on my '87.Even if you gain nothing from the delete,the engine internals will stay a little cleaner due to less carbon buildup.We have no emissions tests here for anything pre-96,so I have done away with all the emissions related useless bullshit on my box.
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Also, for the egr valve, sometimes you will still get code 34 even after you have replaced the egr valve, vacumm lines, etc. I would take the egr valve off, clean it and the egr passages in the upper intake, and check the vacumm lines. Sometimes just cleaning it will make any problems with the egr disappear and alot of carbon tends to build up in it and in the upper intake. Just don't clean the rubber diaphram in the egr valve and use Air intake/tb cleaner, otherwise you'll end up needing a new egr valve like I did.
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Some muffler shops won't cut the cats off the car since it came with cataytics standard from the factory and it may be part of the visual inspection. Check with your state laws and since you said you don't have emission laws, there are other solutions. :evil:
If you have a decent set of tools and some time, you can gut the cats yourself. It will hold over well until you have the $$$ to redo the exhaust system if you plan on it and only will be kinda loud with single exhaust. The y-pipe with cats is a factory bolt on kit, so you can remove the entire y-pipe without having to cut it apart. A broom stick handle, a pipe, or a large flathead screw driver will work well for gutting the cats.
If you upgrade to dual exhaust in the future, buy a mustang off road h-pipe and attach two of your old cataytic shells onto the off-road pipe to mock up some "fake cataytics" for visual inspection. This is only if you don't have emissions testing and if you can get away with it. Also, you need shorty headers to work with a mustang h-pipe, along with s10 midpipes, and 2.25 or bigger mufflers and tailpipes.
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Ok, as it stands right now, looks like I'm gonna repair the EGR, find a bigger radiator and higher flowing water pump, and have the guys at the local muffler shop cut the cats off and just connect everything.
For right now I'll just have to keep the exhaust as is and run no cats into the stock single exhaust set-up. Later this summer perhaps I'll start looking for an off road h pipe setup. I wonder if the muffler shop will do that for me, it might be against their policies.
Anyone know of any higher flowing water pumps that will bolt on?? I've been told radiator.com is a place to get a larger rad.
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The cats don't really have anything to do with the EGR, it will work fine without cats.
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This is for the '89, ok so I should fix it if the EFI needs it but, if I cut the cats off will the egr still operate properly?
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