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ok guys i know you must be wondering y i want a new power plant

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    ok guys i know you must be wondering y i want a new power plant

    Well basicly number 1: power it lacks it, it has good sound but nothing great behind it Number 2: My car doesnt like idling anymore Number 3: I think ther is something wrong with my heads as i started my last day of removing my wood vinyl my car wood not start so I decided to take a look my oil was at the half way point of add and full than i check my fuel system (no leaks just replaced my lines should not have a leak) than check my injectors seemed fine so i was dumb founded so i decided to disconnect the the harness to the fuel injectors so it would just dump fuel into the system some what like a carb i geuss but it almost turn over than i said " i m gunna put smoe oil in it to make it full" BAMB started right up but i put the oil directly into my head by putting it threw the yellow piece on the top of my drivers vavle cover idk y but it seemed like my head need to be oiled up before turning over so guys i know i have many forums about new engines whats best so i m combining into one tonite this is what im thinkin... here we go

    Option 1: Rebuild Current 302 to have more power and be converted to carberated
    Option 2: Get a Exlporer Motor clean it up get some acessories to get more power (cam, and head stuff to improve performance) carn or EFI what ever is better
    Option 3: Buy a Fox Body 302 HO with MFI and either convert to carb or stay with EFI and performance parts
    Option 4: Buy 351 either 69-70s beef it up or mid 90s MFI 351 convert to carb or keep EFI
    Option 5: Friends has I think mid or early 70s 302 carb take it rebuild and beef it up heads and cam (dont know exact year but have pic just need to get them up, if theh eads are good get them re seated and polished i think than if not my friends have E7 or E6 head or GT40( i cant tell i m going to get better look but dont know what to look for) rebuild them and put them on (these also could be put on to my existing engine
    Option 6: Buy a 289 from late 60s or early 70s and beef up major to the max almost (with a flexible budget)

    I think thats all my options my budget for enigne is 600-700 parts are prob 800 dont combine them basicly same budget for parts and/or engine is 600-800 together dont need brand new things, parts the work well are good engouh for me now whats ur opions? What is best for NJ Emissions with only 2 cats {one on each pipe}? And some what fuel efficent like 20 on highway would be good but what everi can get is good for me! thanks
    sigpic
    1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

    #2
    Get a exploder motor and bolt ons
    1999 CVPI
    Old Rides
    1988 Ford Mustang GT (trickflow stage 1)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis LS (5.SLO)
    1989 Ford Thunderbird SC (3.8 Supacharged)

    Comment


      #3
      A GT40 Explorer motor. They were available until 1997.5 and are a great swap. They'll take your stock manifolds, to keep things on a budget until you can afford headers (unless you have some already). All you need in addition to that is a 1" phenolic spacer (or grind the intake), a good cam (TFS Stage 1, perhaps), and valve springs. Most of your CV stuff (accessories, oil pan/pump/pickup, timing, water pump) will swap, but you'll need to figure out your throttle bracketry and lever. It's a fairly easy swap if you do your homework.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

      Comment


        #4
        Also, unplugging the injector harness does nothing, except not spray fuel into the chambers.
        Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
        Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

        Comment


          #5
          what ever (with the fuel harness) i was desprate and trying everything
          seems like every one wants me to go with exploxer motor also i ahve two sets of headers for 302 my stock 86 i got and aftermarket ones that are for sal right know found one only 30 miles away for 450 96 dont know miles but what would be good bolt on i heard of a 289 hipo cam would b good but should i go carb or MFI
          Last edited by 83countrysquire; 06-29-2006, 12:50 AM.
          sigpic
          1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

          Comment


            #6
            If you have fuel injection, keep it. If you're currently carbed, stick with carb. That's my opinion, at least. It's a lot more work to convert to EFI from carb, but it's stupid to go from EFI to carb.

            So... which do you have? Carb or EFI? 83 seems like it'd be carb, but I don't know for sure...
            2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
            1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
            1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

            Comment


              #7
              He has CFI.
              1983 Grand Marquis 2Dr Sedan "Mercules"
              Tremec TKO conversion, hydraulic clutch, HURST equipped!

              Comment


                #8
                yeah i have STUPID CFI i hate this system but will the fuel pump work with it to
                sigpic
                1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

                Comment


                  #9
                  That's your call to make, then. It'll still be a good bit to run EFI, but if that's what you want to do, I'd definitely consider it a worthy goal.
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i think im goiong to find an explorer motor
                    sigpic
                    1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yes- find your motor and take it from there.
                      DO NOT get the P motor if you're on a budget. The special headers alone are $250.
                      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        doesent sound like you you have a clue.......notto be rude but heads have nothing to do with oil level...........my advice is to learn more about the engine you currently have before you gotwaring it apart, and we end up with another dead ripped apart panther.........cfi is not as bad as people claim it to be, there are sensors that need to be working.......i have never heard you discuss the basics such as oil changes, tune ups, spark plugs, compression checks, have you checked the car for oil leaks, vacuum leaks, coolant level etc
                        just hate to see someone piss hard earned money away to fix a stupid problem.......come to scottfest with the car, we'll be all over your engine compartment like flies on shit
                        scott

                        1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                        2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                        1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                        1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                        2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                        1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                        please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          well heres the thing i tihnk u miss interpeted what i said and i have and all the basic tune ups done too oil changed spark plugs changed i know i have one vaccum leak that goes to the cats ( i think that is wat it is i still havent figured out thos pipes were but watever) also wat i said was that where i put my oil wat on top of the heads into the vavle cover, my question was y would i need to put pil in to make it work, a compression check i ahvent had yet but i plan on doing it and as for what i know is a decent amount and explanding
                          sigpic
                          1986 Crown Victoria 302 Cold Air,Mac Shorty headers, Full Dual Exhaust with Super Forty Flows, Wagon Suspension with a Full Sound System Replacement 1/4 time 17.486 @ 77.43mph

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 83countrysquire
                            i know i have one vaccum leak that goes to the cats ( i think that is wat it is i still havent figured out thos pipes were but watever)
                            Air pipes for the air injection system.

                            also wat i said was that where i put my oil wat on top of the heads into the vavle cover, my question was y would i need to put pil in to make it work,
                            An engine will run wether it's a quart low or no oil at all. It's just a really bad idea to run with no oil. Whatever the problem with it starting and idling or whatever, it's got nothing to do with the oil.
                            Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                            Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well, not to offend. But your posts are somewhat difficult to comprehend.

                              The pipes to the cats do not create a vacuum leak. That would be an exhaust leak, unless it's the actual vacuum lines that control the air control valves. As for the oil level, you can run it with no oil in it. (although I do not suggest it) That was just a coincidence that yours started after you put oil in it. The best thing to do is to get the CFI working as best it can (unless you are planning on going carb) and work from there. You could have a bad fuel pump, or some other combination of bad sensors/parts that are causing the problems.
                              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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