Esteemed Panther-brethren,
I keep having this issue with my brake lights just not working and I'm currently at my wits end, and instead of speaking of it in my Reader's Rides thread I figured we'd have a separate thread, if nothing else for documentation purposes that might help someone in the future. Historically, the lights have flickered on when pressing the pedal but not stayed on until you were pretty far along in pedal travel. As things currently stand, they are simply not turning on at all (nor does the cruise disengage when pressing the pedal) regardless of pressure applied. What I have done so far (inserting the illustration from the workshop manual at the bottom of the post as well as an illustrational video so kindly linked to by DerekTheGreat in my other thread for everyone's convenience):
- Brake light/stop lamp switch is a nice new Motorcraft unit. The round bushing flange that goes through the arm from the brake booster was missing, but I've acquired a correct one. Otherwise the assembly is complete with all nylon bushings, hairpin retainer and whatnot. The dimple and flange are mounted as the illustration prescribes.
- I've measured the switch using a test light and it lights up when the switch is activated, indicating proper operation. It also lights the brake lights when mounted on the car and depressed with a pair of parrot pliers. Similarly, I've tested that there is power going to the connector that mounts to the switch and that is OK.
- I have tested both with the bushing flange and without it, with the same result - no brake lights. The only thing that differs from the illustration below is that my hairpin retainer is mounted upside down, as it is impossible to get in from the other side. I have mounted it "both ways" while upside down though.
- I have tried to jiggle the switch and move it around, but it always defaults back to the "straight" position as seen in the video and illustration, basically where the plunger pushes straight at it. Alas, moving it around and pressing the brakes produces no different result.
So now I am unsure of how to proceed. Granted, it would be easy to just buy another switch to test but that's a shipping and import charge across the Atlantic that I don't feel like paying to the state coffers unless I am sure it is faulty. At the same time the above tests indicate to me that it's fine. It is almost as if the plunger doesn't manage to depress the switch enough (since when depressed with pliers and force, the brake lights illuminate just fine), or as if the angle is wrong, but I can't seem to find any other reasonable way for the switch to be mounted.
So does any of you have any ideas?
I keep having this issue with my brake lights just not working and I'm currently at my wits end, and instead of speaking of it in my Reader's Rides thread I figured we'd have a separate thread, if nothing else for documentation purposes that might help someone in the future. Historically, the lights have flickered on when pressing the pedal but not stayed on until you were pretty far along in pedal travel. As things currently stand, they are simply not turning on at all (nor does the cruise disengage when pressing the pedal) regardless of pressure applied. What I have done so far (inserting the illustration from the workshop manual at the bottom of the post as well as an illustrational video so kindly linked to by DerekTheGreat in my other thread for everyone's convenience):
- Brake light/stop lamp switch is a nice new Motorcraft unit. The round bushing flange that goes through the arm from the brake booster was missing, but I've acquired a correct one. Otherwise the assembly is complete with all nylon bushings, hairpin retainer and whatnot. The dimple and flange are mounted as the illustration prescribes.
- I've measured the switch using a test light and it lights up when the switch is activated, indicating proper operation. It also lights the brake lights when mounted on the car and depressed with a pair of parrot pliers. Similarly, I've tested that there is power going to the connector that mounts to the switch and that is OK.
- I have tested both with the bushing flange and without it, with the same result - no brake lights. The only thing that differs from the illustration below is that my hairpin retainer is mounted upside down, as it is impossible to get in from the other side. I have mounted it "both ways" while upside down though.
- I have tried to jiggle the switch and move it around, but it always defaults back to the "straight" position as seen in the video and illustration, basically where the plunger pushes straight at it. Alas, moving it around and pressing the brakes produces no different result.
So now I am unsure of how to proceed. Granted, it would be easy to just buy another switch to test but that's a shipping and import charge across the Atlantic that I don't feel like paying to the state coffers unless I am sure it is faulty. At the same time the above tests indicate to me that it's fine. It is almost as if the plunger doesn't manage to depress the switch enough (since when depressed with pliers and force, the brake lights illuminate just fine), or as if the angle is wrong, but I can't seem to find any other reasonable way for the switch to be mounted.
So does any of you have any ideas?
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